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#1 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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flip kit and shackle= cnotch??
since my rearend is out, and i've got to take my leafsprings out, i thought i might wanna get some lowering shackles for the truck. would i have to run a cnotch to run these? right now i've got about 4.5" of clearance between the frame and axle and i have never once bottomed out. most big bumps and train tracks and stuff like that i take really slowly(especially with my new wheels, even though i've got 50 series tires)
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#2 |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,065
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I can't imagine not having a C-notch w/ a flip kit. Let alone + shackles.....
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
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#3 |
You get what you pay for
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Shackles will lower it about another 1.25" or so. A c-notch would be mandatory on my list. Only thing though, you should have marked where the axle center line was on the frame before removing it. With it not in there, no way to know where to put the notch.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
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#4 | |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fergus, Ontario
Posts: 481
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Ocbaud, I put a 5" c-notch in my 80 Blazer without taking the body off. You should be able to do yours I would think.
I got a 5 inch I.D. steel schedule 80 pipe. I cut a piece off on the chop saw, the width of the frame. I then cut it in half to make 2 pieces. I made a template for the side pieces and had them cut and drilled by a machine shop from 1/4 plate. My buddy and I then put the truck up on his hoist, supported the back frame, drilled and mounted the side plate. Then we cut the C out by torch, a little at a time to keep it cool. Then we welded in the 5" pipe. We put weld all around the pipe when done to add strength. Added new bump stops in the centre top. Works good, no cracks, no sagging, no bottoming out. Doug |
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#6 |
Trucker.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,364
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You can do the notch on a 73-current SWB's without pulling the bed.
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#7 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Ditto on what everyone else said. You can do it without pulling the bed, it just makes it easier...
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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The flip kit + shackles does need a c-notch but it is possible to drive around w/o one. I still haven't added the c-notch to mine & have been driving it daily now for well over a year.
I can't carry any excess weight though.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#9 | |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Quote:
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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depends on what notch you get. you do have to pull the bed when using a western chasis notch, it has bolts that go on top on the frame rail. i'm not sure if the djm and belltech notches are the same way
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#11 | |
vintage car junkie
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: DFW
Posts: 217
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1950 chevy truck, s10 swap, bagged, v8, 18s My build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=392761 |
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#12 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,963
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Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 11-08-2004 at 08:31 PM. |
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#13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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