Primer then filler/filler then primer - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

*wolfthing2000* · 11-11-2004, 10:39 PM

What is the prefered method of order here?? Epoxy prime the prepared metal then fill over the primer preventing any moisture from ever reaching filler??
Or, fill the prepared bare metal surface and epoxy prime over the filler????
I have heard pros and cons both ways.
Dave

HuggerCST · 11-11-2004, 11:57 PM

Good question. I fill over bare metal, then prime. I've never had a problem in the last 20 years(that I know of), but then, I'm not a professional. I just do it as a hobby, and for side money. I'd like to hear a pro's opinion though.

longnlow72 · 11-12-2004, 12:01 AM

i would also try throwin a post in the paint & body section for a few more opinions

cduster · 11-12-2004, 12:40 AM

I'm no pro. When I did mine, I welded in the panels, filled the seams with fiberglass and sanded. Then primed and filled with filler. Sanded and primed again. Worked for me, although I still haven't got to the painting!

*wolfthing2000* · 11-12-2004, 12:28 PM

I have done it both ways and a pro told me that the epoxy down first and then the Bondos over that.

Still looking for a pro to jump in here.

Dave

krazy_texan · 11-12-2004, 02:22 PM

my boss who is a pro tells me that it is supposed to be filler on bare metal as it sticks to it better, thats what i was told

*72CSTC5* · 11-12-2004, 02:49 PM

Well, I guess I would call my self a professional. I have about 63 General Motors certificates and ASE master certified and every I-CAR collsion certificate you can think of, but who cares right. The proper way to do body work is. Well, let me start over. The way I would do it and others suggest is to, for example: strip a door to bare metal, sand over any metal areas you will do body work over with 50 grit on a da sander, prime with ppg dx171 over bare metal, after it tacks up you have to spray an epoxy primer over that while it is still wet. When dry you should have at least a 2mil thickness. This will ensure you have proper "corrosion protection". Next lightly scuff sand where you will apply bodyfiller with "Evercoats" new body filler that you can apply over painted surfaces and finish body work. Of course you will probably break through some areas while sanding your bondo but not as bad as putting it over bare metal. Finish your body work with 180 grit and then apply thin coat of "Evercoat" metal glaze and coat over entire area where there is no bare metal showing. Sand again with 180 grit. Primer, block, primer until done. Just a recommended procedure but I have done it both ways.

**PICKMUP** · 11-12-2004, 05:10 PM

Good advise from 72CSTC5...but, always get the manufacturer's spec sheets from the brand/type paint you will use. Stay with one system all the way from start to finish.
This will insure you have the best "tested" procedures & compatibilties. The paint suppliers will give you these sheets when you buy their products. There are some different companies products that will not work well together.

low burb · 11-13-2004, 10:03 AM

Now, I'm no expert but, the product sheet for DP 90 LF (PPG's epoxy) specifically says not to apply over dpx171. I don't know if this is the same as dx171 or if the procedure or product has changed, but just goes to show that you must read the manufacturers sheets. It does say you can apply over dx1791 wash primer or dx metal treatments. Michael

11-11-2004, 10:39 PM	#1
wolfthing2000 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,276	Primer then filler/filler then primer What is the prefered method of order here?? Epoxy prime the prepared metal then fill over the primer preventing any moisture from ever reaching filler?? Or, fill the prepared bare metal surface and epoxy prime over the filler???? I have heard pros and cons both ways. Dave

11-11-2004, 11:57 PM	#2
HuggerCST Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: North Louisiana Posts: 4,501	Good question. I fill over bare metal, then prime. I've never had a problem in the last 20 years(that I know of), but then, I'm not a professional. I just do it as a hobby, and for side money. I'd like to hear a pro's opinion though. __________________ Wynne 70 CST short fleet Hugger orange & white, 350/350, ps, pb, air, tilt, tach/vac/speedwarning, original buckets, AM/FM, oak bed floor, shoulder belts, 3.5"/5.5" drop, 20" American Racing VN425s. Build thread 53 Chevy shortbed 69 Camaro Click here to subscribe Chevy GMC International Truck Club Louisiana Charter Member http://www.louisianaclassictruckclub.com

11-12-2004, 12:01 AM	#3
longnlow72 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SW Washington Posts: 947	i would also try throwin a post in the paint & body section for a few more opinions __________________ 72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done...

11-12-2004, 02:22 PM	#6
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	my boss who is a pro tells me that it is supposed to be filler on bare metal as it sticks to it better, thats what i was told __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

11-12-2004, 05:10 PM	#8
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,126	When all else fails---read the instructions!!! Good advise from 72CSTC5...but, always get the manufacturer's spec sheets from the brand/type paint you will use. Stay with one system all the way from start to finish. This will insure you have the best "tested" procedures & compatibilties. The paint suppliers will give you these sheets when you buy their products. There are some different companies products that will not work well together. __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

11-12-2004, 12:40 AM	#4
cduster Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: S.W. Michigan Posts: 403	I'm no pro. When I did mine, I welded in the panels, filled the seams with fiberglass and sanded. Then primed and filled with filler. Sanded and primed again. Worked for me, although I still haven't got to the painting!

11-12-2004, 12:28 PM	#5
wolfthing2000 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,276	I have done it both ways and a pro told me that the epoxy down first and then the Bondos over that. Still looking for a pro to jump in here. Dave

11-12-2004, 02:49 PM	#7
72CSTC5 Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Deer Park, Tx. Posts: 2,524	Well, I guess I would call my self a professional. I have about 63 General Motors certificates and ASE master certified and every I-CAR collsion certificate you can think of, but who cares right. The proper way to do body work is. Well, let me start over. The way I would do it and others suggest is to, for example: strip a door to bare metal, sand over any metal areas you will do body work over with 50 grit on a da sander, prime with ppg dx171 over bare metal, after it tacks up you have to spray an epoxy primer over that while it is still wet. When dry you should have at least a 2mil thickness. This will ensure you have proper "corrosion protection". Next lightly scuff sand where you will apply bodyfiller with "Evercoats" new body filler that you can apply over painted surfaces and finish body work. Of course you will probably break through some areas while sanding your bondo but not as bad as putting it over bare metal. Finish your body work with 180 grit and then apply thin coat of "Evercoat" metal glaze and coat over entire area where there is no bare metal showing. Sand again with 180 grit. Primer, block, primer until done. Just a recommended procedure but I have done it both ways.

11-13-2004, 10:03 AM	#9
low burb Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Medicine Hat,AB, Canada Posts: 194	Now, I'm no expert but, the product sheet for DP 90 LF (PPG's epoxy) specifically says not to apply over dpx171. I don't know if this is the same as dx171 or if the procedure or product has changed, but just goes to show that you must read the manufacturers sheets. It does say you can apply over dx1791 wash primer or dx metal treatments. Michael __________________ Michael 1971 GMC Suburban "Crusty" 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 1978 Scout II 1992 Passat Syncro



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