A cool and subtle mod

[slogo]

getting back to your post that is a cool mod it shouldn't be a big deal if you have a good glass man in your area, he can cut the glass to fit the opening. keep in mind that cab has been chopped and glass has to be cut anyways. i would think with a little more planning, same could work for the front as well. you need to ask a experianced glass man about that one.

[jiggs]

One of the more experienced glass techs that does our glass at the shop gave me some info. The pinchweld area, or the flange would have to be at the least 3/4" wide for proper mounting. The glass would have to be primed with a specific glass primer. About an inch wide on the glass. Taping off a nice line would make it look the part. There is aftermarket mouldings that comes in a role and is cut to length. I think the back window is a go. The windshield area will also need the 3/4" flange. The whole area around the windshield will have to be brought in to fit closer to the glass on all sides. I think I will add more to the bottom, so I won't have to deal with the top. Three sides are easier than four. Luckily I have a cab that is ripe for the chopping. That way I will be able to use existing formed metal to make the opening smaller. A lot of welding and time, but I think it will be worth it in the end.

Another question: How much do these cabs flex. If they flex a lot in the windshield and back window area, the glass will crack. Keep in mind that I have removed my drip rails, so the area above the windshield is already weakened. If I do this I will have to strengthen the top of the opening quite a bit. Probably not a bad idea anyway. That could be why the glass was rubber mounted in the first place.

Any guesses?

[slogo]

i'm sure there's flex in the top but if the glass is set in or on a good bead i wouldn't see it to be a major problem. just be carefull if you ever jack up the truck cause you know it will flex then...my .02
hope your taking some pics as you start your project. cause i though about doing it on the chopped up blazer i'm working on, keep us posted. good luck!

[StingRay]

Tyler make sure you allow enough room around the glass for thermal expansion and the flex you are refering to. There are glue in mouldings that can be used to fill the gap. The glass and the steel will expand and contract alot different between -40 and plus 40. I'll bet you'll never see factory flush typle glass with real tight edges. They usually have some kind of trim or a good margin to the steel. Laminated safety glass cracks real easy too if stressed.