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11-30-2004, 01:46 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 824
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Need fast help!!
Well, my dad's truck finally left hime stranded. He was able to get it gonig enough to limp it home. I get a new distributor it needed and put it in. The thing is it is not running right still. It idles really high and you feel the whole truck vibrating when in gear.
The new distributor did not have the extra plug on the side of it. It only had the one that goes to the cap. As far as I understood from what I have researched on here, that is ok. Or is it?? I don't know what brand or anything it is. I got it from my cousin who got it new for his, but did not use it for the reason it did not have that extra connection which his truck did like my dad's. This is on an '83 w/ completely stock 305. Any ideas?? Let me know if you need any extra info. Thanx in advance. |
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11-30-2004, 02:10 PM
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#2 | |
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Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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I don't have any suggestions, but the extra plug you are talking about sounds like an ESC distributor. It is okay to replace an ESC distributor with a regular one. ESC has a wide plug that hangs off the side of the distributor, that looks like this:
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/driv...repl/plug1.jpg Slonaker Quote:
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11-30-2004, 02:39 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 824
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Yup, that is the one. That is what I figured, and threw it in.
Forgot to mention in the first post that I initially set it to 10 degrees of initial timing, but that was way too much. Even when set down to 4 degrees, it still seems to be too high. Not sure what is going on. The only thing I can think of is that w/ the new dizzy, the carb needs to be be readjusted. Unfortuantly, that is one thing I am not really sure how to do. 
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11-30-2004, 02:42 PM
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#4 |
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Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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That dizzy is originally designed for the computer to do the advancing / retarding as required. It won't advance on its own, nor will it run quite right without those wires being spliced together. If I were you, I'd get a normal Vac / Mech advance HEI, work much better than one of those electronic ones in your case...
__________________
1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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11-30-2004, 03:27 PM
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#5 | ||
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ROCKET POWER!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 509
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Quote:
Quote:
Ric does the new distributor have a vac. advance can, and if it does is it hooked up to intake manifold or carb vacuum source? Also, are you certain there are no vacuum leaks (brake booster, transmission vacuum modulator, air vent controls, intake manifold gaskets, carb gaskets, vac. switches etc etc) Can you get it to run well by adjusting the timing (disregard what your timing light claims the timing to be). It's possible the damper might have a slipped outer ring.
__________________
What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild |
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11-30-2004, 03:38 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 824
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Yes, it has a vacuum advance. It is hooked up to the carb, eventually (I mean it is routed like the diagram on the core support shows it. It goes to this small cylindrical piece that has two inputs and two outputs. One of them goes to the carb) We did search for any kind of leak and did not find any.
No, we did not turn back the timing enough to where it would sound good. When we put it in gear the way it is now, it sounded pretty close to what it should, but as stated, it would vibrate really bad. |
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