Oh crap!!!! No breaks!!!

[chickenwing]

Well it was a pretty good day. Went over to SactoC10's and tried to help with his fuel vent problem. Talked trucks, showed off my new paint and had a good time. Went over for the big wingding. Stuffed myself silly, and took a nap. Wife was drawing up the battle plans for tomarrows shopping extravaganza with her girlfriend, so I decided to go for a movie.

Now it gets interesting. Coming from a long strech of open road doin 60ish, I went into a left hand turn lane and hit the brakes. Heard a muffled pop and the pedal went down to the floor. Brake light winked on. Kinda lost my cool. Was running out of lane fast. Looked right real quick. Whew no traffic. Jogged over and hit the emer. brake came to a good stop fairly quick on the shoulder.

Popped my hood. No fluid on outside of booster or anywhere else. Got to the back and there was fluid all over my diff.. Got back in did some checking. Was pretty sure front brakes should still work with the back system open. I was right!! Had to go all the way to the floor and mash a bit harder than I was used to but they worked!

Got her home. Grabbed my daughter to work the brakes and started investigating. Fluid is coming out of the left rear solid brake line b-nut at the distribution block. Looks like sombody stepped on it when the bed was off at the paint shop.

Questions!! Are these rigid lines available at the local stores? They have that spring armor stuff on them. I know they are going to ask me wich axle I have. I think it is a Dana 60. Would someone confirm? If I have to junk-yard this part what year/model trucks will have this axle?

Thanks for all input.

Rich

[1969 GMC]

that is a dana 60 rear axle. 3/4 ton trucks made by GM, Dodge, Ford,and International all used this axle, so unless the part is an oddball...you should be able to find a donor.

[Tx Firefighter]

You can buy a length of line at a parts store that is flared all ready and comes with the fitting in place. You'll need to know the length you need.

Usually though, the lengths on the shelf are not exactly what I need, so I wind up cutting one shorter and reflaring the end to get the exact length I need.

[Fred T]

Unless you go to one of the aftermarket companies that make pre-bent tubes, you'll have to do as Tx said. You can buy a spring tube bender that fits over the tube and keeps you from kinking the tube. Flaring is a challenge, these are double flares, not the standard plumbing flares. If you have to, you can put a loop in to use up excess tube. And buy two lengths of tubing, in case you mess one up, I usually manage to.

[Warbones]

I'd hate to think what would happen if I was to actully try and use my ermerg break. I should prolly give it a try. I'd like to go over all of the break system anyway. Make sure it's safe. First things first tho.

[Rusty Rider]

I bought some line from auto zone and they had a double flaring kit you can borrow or just buy (25 - 30 dollars in my area) but I did not see the spring coverd lines when I was repairing mine.

[chickenwing]

Thanks for the replies guys. I had just spent over $500 bucks on drums, rotors, calipers, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes... I even made sure my e-brake was in proper adjustment. Thank God. So when this happened I was sure it was gonna be the master cylinder.

Talking out loud here... Chime in on what ever subject.I have never saw the armored brake line in the auto parts stores. Is it necessary for it to have the springy stuff? Last time I did any flaring, I was 19 in A&P school. So memory is kinda fuzzy. Seems like I had to use 2 differant sizes of blocks and anvils. Kinda fuzzy on the tool names too. I even think the auto stuff was a differant angle of flare? Kinda leaning towards a recreational junk-yarding trip.... I'd rather go looking for quackers. Ducks that is.

[cableguy0]

the problem is if you find the correct steel lines in the junkyard odds are your going to break them getting them off and if you do manage to get them off without breakage the line isnt going to be in much better shape than the one on your truck that already blew. just buy new line from the store. it doesnt have to have the spring wrap no replacements doso dont worry about it.

[kaycee]

No the spring is not needed ,I was told that they were put on for a protecton sleeve against flying debris so it would absorb the impact.

[72swbcamo]

I had to replace the lines on my rearend. I shipped the old lines to Classic Tube, and they made up replacements for me in stainless steel. They fit better than the originals. I think they cost me $45.00 plus the shipping both ways.
CT was a great outfit to work with and did a great job. It did take a few weeks to get them.

http://www.classictube.com

[spencra]

Holy crap! that would scare the s#!t out of me too. Good to hear your ok though chickenwing.
Sorry but I couldn't help but chuckle when you just threw in there "lost my cool". I could just imagine the scene, the look on your face and the words that flew out of your mouth.
I would have had to sit on the side of the road for awhile. After I cleaned out my shorts of course.

[spencra]

Oh yeah and hello there 72swbcamo. It's nice to see another member from CT and not too far either.

[chickenwing]

Looks like I'm gonna have to bend my own. I gotta git to work Monday. Any primers out there for proper flaring?

[chickenwing]

Managed to figure it out. Screwed up the first double flare. Was protruding too far out of the block. Wish I could say it looks as good as new. It works and it doesn't appear to be chaffing on anything so I'm calling it good.