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Old 11-29-2004, 12:50 AM   #1
WB72
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Choke decisions

I will be building a new small block, and just wondering about the choke. I live in Canada and the truck will be driven only in the summer. The exhisting quadrajet has the choke that has the bimetalic spring built in the intake maifold. I will be purchasing the RPM performer and a carb from Edelbrock.

Does the choke mechanism have any effect on how the carb functions normally?

Is the electric choke the most common?

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Old 11-29-2004, 08:54 AM   #2
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The stock bimetallic spring choke setup works somewhat but the electric chokes work better. The stock chokes don't warm up fast enough in cold weather and stay on longer than they should. I would recommend the electric choke as it will open up faster and is more reliable.

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Old 11-29-2004, 09:08 AM   #3
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Give up on both of them, and put in a manual choke
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:10 PM   #4
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That's what I have, a manual choke. It's cheap theft protection. I can keep mine running without it closed (it takes some work. My choke cable wasn't working right for the first 2 weeks of winter so I learned the hard way) but I doubt anyone who has never even heard of a manual choke will get my truck out of my driveway.
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:13 PM   #5
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I installed an electric choke on mine but I don't think it's working. Is it correct to run a wire from the choke to the UNFUSED spot on your fuse box?? I ahve mine hooked up this way, but it won't run the idle up when it's cold at all
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:20 PM   #6
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I ahve mine hooked up this way, but it won't run the idle up when it's cold at all
Make sure it's not hooked up to a constant 12v source, otherwise the choke will always be open and not serving any purpose. Make sure it is only receiving 12v when the ignition is on.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:26 PM   #7
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What is involved in the setup of an electric choke?
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4
The stock bimetallic spring choke setup works somewhat but the electric chokes work better. The stock chokes don't warm up fast enough in cold weather and stay on longer than they should...
Would you please speak to how well you think a new spring & lever functions on a freshly rebuilt OEM carb, vice a tired, rusty choke spring hooked to a dirty carb that many of these old truck run. Thanks.
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WB72
What is involved in the setup of an electric choke?
Try this setup-works good for me.
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Poet
Would you please speak to how well you think a new spring & lever functions on a freshly rebuilt OEM carb, vice a tired, rusty choke spring hooked to a dirty carb that many of these old truck run. Thanks.
If you mean will it work ok then the answer is yes. If you mean how it works here's how--when engine is cold the coil spring contracts causing the choke butterfly to close by way of the rod between coil and choke lever. When engine is started exhaust gas crosses from one head to the other by the way of a passage (choke coil is setting on this passage) and out the other pipe causing the coil to expand and draw the choke open.
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:08 AM   #11
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To add to jhow66's reply, we use the factory setup for the choke on several of our trucks and they do work. It seems that they need a lot of attention and adjustment to get them to work right. They work better if the engine is equipped with the thermactor setup and heat riser. (We don't have either one on any of our trucks).

Engine temperature is important so a 195 degree thermostat is desireable. It makes a difference if the exhaust crossover passage is clean and flows well.

The electric choke works better under a variety of conditions so that would be the one that I would recommend. A manual choke will work but they can have problems also.

Jim
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:11 AM   #12
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Just don't forget to disengage the manual choke before you go driving all over the place.
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:26 AM   #13
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I have the same setup, it's called a divorced choke. When the engine's cold, the spring contracts(winds up) and closes the choke. When the engine starts to warm up, it expands(opens up) and the choke opens till the engine is at operating temp. and the choke should be open all the way. That's how mine is and I haven't had any problems with it.
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:21 AM   #14
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I converted my q-jet to an electric choke & it rocks. I got the parts at the bone yard. I SEEM to remember that the late 70ies/very early 80ies have what u need. I will admit that it is a particularly fussy adjustment, but when its good is done like dinner. & ya, go to a fused ignition power source.
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:49 AM   #15
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i have a divorced choke as well .. is it possible to attach a manual choke cable to my fast idle cam and remove the whole spring setup ..
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:48 AM   #16
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71-Longbed - I bought a "HELP" kit from one of the chain parts stores (A-zone or Advance - don't remember) and it comes with the choke cable, a bracket to mount the knob inside, and a clamp that attaches to the choke butterfly rod. I had to remove the bi-metallic spring on the side of the carb (Q-jet), and the housing the spring was it. Just a couple of screws...
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:07 PM   #17
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do you happen to know how long the choke cable has to be ??? do you have any pics ??? thanks a bunch
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