Packing wheel bearing question

[gman]

I hope this isn't too basic of a question but was wondering if someone could step me through the process of packing the wheel bearings on my '72 K10 truck. I've replaced the manual hubs on it but after that I wasn't sure what to remove. Are there inner and outer bearings that need attention? Is there anything else that ought to be done at the same time while I'm in the frontend? Seals or anything like that? Sorry for what may be a rather simple question to most. Any help is appreciated.

[Jetmech727]

Do a board search this one I found that might help. Good luck






http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...wheel+bearings

[4x4Poet]

That thread says little beyond using an adjusting nut removal tool that's available at most auto parts stores. Tell them 6-lug Chevy D44. Yes, the bearings should be cleaned and inspected, replaced if too worn, and packed/repacked with new seals installed.

I have an interest in this because I need to do my 71 K10 to include pulling the axles. I think I can walk you thru it, but expect that I'll miss something. I recommend the Chevy Factory Service Manual. Even better is the Service & Overhaul manuals on CD. You can print just the pages you need for a job. For info today, copy applicable pages from your local library's auto manuals collection. Should cost 50¢ tops. Please excuse my use of unofficial terms. And I'm going from memory:

1. Remove locking hub which should include removing a snap ring around the outer stub axle. Remove caliper & rotor somewhere here. Tie caliper to frame so you don't stress the hose or need break the fluid seal.
2. I can't remember if the hub has a star washer. If so, using a wedge chisel or screwdriver (there is a better tool for this, but nobody uses it), lightly hammer back the bent tab on the star washer (prolly K20 HD44 only).
3. Using hub removal tool, remove outer lock nut. Note which side faces lockwasher.
4. Remove lockwasher. I think it is one with holes and a nub that slides in the spindle's groove.
5. Remove inner adjusting nut. Note which side faces bearing.
6. Pull hub out an inch and back. Slide off loose outer bearing. Or pull hub off and catch bearing. Set aside outer bearing. Remove hub, if not already done.
7. Using seal puller, remove inner bearing seal.
8. Remove inner bearing. Keep track of which is inner bearing & which is outer. I think the size difference will help, but my memory fails.
9. Scoop out as much grease as you can from inside hub,
10. Using appropriate solvent/degreasing agent, clean bearings & hub paying special attention to cups (races) and inside bearings between rollers. A brush and a little pressure helps here. Clean spindle & examine for wear. Clean adj nuts, lock washer, snap ring, etc..
11. Examine cleaned cups and bearings for wear. Look for pits, grooves, troughs, or general uneven wear on the cups. Look for pits, grooves, or general uneven wear in the bearings. If either a bearing or a cup is bad, replace all four. If you are not sure, take the hub and bearings to a bearing sales outfit for expert advice. Bearing sales stores are likely your cheapest replacement source for bearings, races, and seals. Replace K20 star washer in any case.
12. Remove any bad cups with brass drift & hammer. If one cup or its bearing needs replacement, replace both inner & outer sets so you can hammer away at the cups during removal. You don't want to have to replace the untouched side when it goes bad. Also, you can keep better track of mileage on your bearings if both are replaced at the same time. At least always replace a bearing and its race together to get even wear in future.
13. With cups removed, clean hub insides more thoroughly.
14. Paint hub, if desired.
15. Pound in new cups using cup/seal installer (best), old race, or brass drift (never steel which would scratch a new race. Brass won't scratch steel in hand apps). Do not let hammer touch race. Maybe use hard plastic hammer to be safe since you won't need much force. Well-aligned accuracy is key. Short swings. Patience. Or, bring the hub & new cups to an auto repair shop and you could get them replaced cheap.
16. Pack bearings by hand or with bearing packing tool. Get the grease between the rollers from end to end. Use any disc brake high temp grease. Synthetic is best. (go Amsoil!)
17. Smear grease on cups in hub. Set inner bearing in place.
18. Using cup/seal installer (best), or gentle criss-cross hammer action, pound in inner seal. DO NOT deform metal surrounding rubber seal. Deformed metal can cause misaligned seal thru which grease could spew on rotor/brake pads.
19. Load inside of hub with grease between races to the level of the inner bearing diameter as placed in the hub. Too much is ok as long as the spindle will pass thru fairly easily. Think 360º.
20. Slip the hub over the spindle until the inner bearing seats on back of spindle. In this process, do not let inner seal touch spindle until inner bearing is seating. Keep hub aligned/centered on hub to avoid deforming inner seal before inner bearing seats against spindle.
21. Slip outer bearing over spindle until seated in its race, thus aligning hub.
22. While keeping hub aligned on spindle, install inner adjusting nut with side that faced bearing originally again facing bearing. If you lost track, one side might have a flatter surface for the bearing to rest against. Or look for bearing wear marks. Torque to specs and back off.
Note from the 1971 Service Manual: "Torque inner adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (while rotating hub) to seat bearings using Tool J-6893 [adj nut tool]. Back off the inner adjusting nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs. while the hub is being rotated. Back off the inner adjusting nut again 1/4 turn. Assemble lock washer by turning nut to nearest hole in lockwasher. Install outer lock nut and torque to 50 ft. lbs. (minimum)"
23. I can't remember off hand how to make lockwasher lock. I think you'll run into a lock washer with holes for the inner adj nut's nub. Be sure to make sure it holds both the adj nut in place. If a star washer (prolly K20 HD44), gently bend one tab over inner spindle nut. Use the tab that's best square to a side of nut. Then pry one tab over the installed outer nut. The star/lockwasher will have an inner tab to fit a groove in the spindle. Common sense should figure it out since you saw it upon removal.
24. Install locking hub. Don't forget snap ring. You can thread a bolt into the outer stub axle to pull it out to gain access to the snap ring groove.
25. Install rotor and caliper.
26. One side is done. Hallelujah!

I will be going further into removing the spindle and axles due to worn u-joint crosses. Also, the spindle's back side has a bearing and seal worth replacing. You should at least check for play in your axle u-joints to see if going all the way in is warranted. Vol II later.