suggestions and guidance on lowering a 67 C10

[Vince Putt]

I'm finally getting to the point where I can start my rebuild on my wife's truck.
A 67 SWB.

We are going for a daily driver that is rock solid reliable and won't make us feel like we are riding a skateboard on the power tour.

Planning on running something along the line of a 60 series tire on 8" ralley wheel in the front and a 60 series tire on a 10" ralley on the back.
we are after the look of a filled wheelwell with tire.

Roads are pretty roiugh here in eastern Pa. so I have to be conservative for the ride height. Otherwise I may have to put tow hooks and a winch on it to get it out of a pothole.

Years ago I had a 85 Silverado when I lived in Dallas TX and the roads were smooth as silk compared to PA. It was running 15x10's with 50 series tires all around with a drop shop modified a arms two coils cut from the springs and flip kit in the back. I was pretty happy with the ride quality and only
seriously bottomed out once.


Here's what I have parts wise that I'd like to use, A set of bell dropped spindles for the 85 truck (I got rid of the drop shop A Arm parts) the entire front crossmember from the 85 including power steering box, 5" bolt pattern brakes, master clyinder, stock height springs, tilt steering and all parts. for the rear I have acquired a coil spring C10 frame, I have my choice of using a 6 lug stock stock rear axle or a 9"in ford with disc brakes from a lincoln versiales. 5 lug 4 1/2 bolt pattern. I'm not real sure on the condition of the trailing arms they look pretty rusty I'll sandblast them and decide if they are usable. New ones are available at about $350 I have another option of using the 9" with Art Morrison Adjustable Ladder bar setup. with coil over spring setup (this was under the 85 during a rebuild project that got sidelined when the wife decided she wanted a 67)

Technology has come a long way since the 85 was built and rebuilt and rebuilt again.

I've been seeing that Airbags are being used alot now.
How viable is the Air bag thing? Are they reliable? I remember my buddy's Lincoln that almost always had rear airbag problems. I know that this would be an expensive venture. I'm not wishing to set the frame rails on the ground I'm interested in having a quality ride that's super reliable.

Other parts and pieces I've seen are things like a a new center crossmember.
The manufacturer says it's to be used with trucks with a 5" or more drop.
I'm not sure if I have to go that far for the look I want. Should or could I use that center crossmember regardless of my drop? I'll be running a one piece driveshaft. How low can things go before I run into driveshaft hitting the center crossmember?

It's my understanding the the 85 crossmember is pretty much a bolt in shy of changing some holes.


On the suspension site on this board there is a big discussion going on about people are dropping (sectioning the front crossmember). How viable is sectioning the crossmember? I'm not afraid of doing the work but I'm wondering is it really necessary. It appears to me that it would or could really help out with ground clearance by sectioning the area under the engine. The by sectioning out the area of crossmember where the frame rail meets that lowering the entire frontal area could be done.


Ok I'm all ears, Give me some ideas on how low I should go and what your thoughts are on my options.

Thanks
Vince

[SCOTI]

Visit the suspension section for alot of good reading on several 'right' ways to lower these trucks down.

..... Still in Dallas.

[68LSS1]

I wouldn't put the time and money into bags unless you want that "laying on frame" look. I can't decide from your post if that's what you want or not. They would definately handle the job as the technology/materials have come along way. I'd suggest looking at some of the pictures from other members trucks until you found one that has the ride height that you like and then find the particulars of the drop. I'd say you probably don't want more than a 4/6 with your concern about potholes. With a 60 series tire you'll still have a lot of sidewall to fill the fenders and keep the ride quite soft by doing a spring/spindle drop. Won't be as radical as a Z'd crossmember and bags which would work also but from the way I read your post I don't think you need the modified crossmember. What sort of powerplant you plan on using (as I'm curious as to the use of the 9")?

[Vince Putt]

I'm thinking of a 4-6 drop. would be enough to get it to the ride height I want.

I've poured though pictures for the last 6 months or so looking at the stance of different trucks. The ride quality is my major concern. I don't want tires rubbing body panels in any way.

For the front:
If I modified the front crossmember 1 1/2 inches like I saw on the suspension board and used the drop spindles ( I think they are 2 1/2 inch drop. I'll compare them to a stock set of spindles when I tear the front end apart.) that would give me a 4" drop allowing stock springs and shocks to be used.

I'm thinking using a new stock height spring and shock would give me the very best ride quality; Shy of maybe ditching the entire front crossmember and going to a custom built front crossmember like a fatman or Jim Meyer racing. Am I missing something in my thinking?

What kind of tire interferance might I run into with this game plan? In theory
this plan would be the same effect as Z-ing the frame to lower the front of the body over without moving the engine.

for the rear:
if I stay with the trailing arms lowering blocks and new shorter springs and relocated shocks appear to be my only option to get to six inches. Would the modified crossmember be needed to relocate the control arms? I see that one of the advantages of it would be driveshaft clearance and a modified way to route the exhaust through the crossmember.

If I go with the Art Morrison adjustable ladder bar setup I could have a lot of flexability because of the adjustments of the way the shock and spring tower mounts to set the ride height. and I can order different spring rates to get the ride quality. Again ride quality and tire interference are the major concerns.

As for my engine I'm currently planning on a 355" SB. But If I could find an LS1 and six speed manual or automatic that may be an option but in reality I don't see it happening.


Thanks, Vince

[Vince Putt]

I rephased this entire question and posted over on the suspension board.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...08#post1052908

[gr8scott51]

Check out Early Classic Enterprises. I used their 3/5 drop kit. It came complete with shocks, springs, shock relocator brackets, panhard bar, etc. Easy one day job. Don't forget to get an alignment when you've finished.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by Vince Putt

I'm thinking of a 4-6 drop. would be enough to get it to the ride height I want.

Thanks, Vince

A 295/50/15 ON 10 INCH RALLY'S WILL FILL UP YOUR WHEEL WELLS GOOD ON
A 3/5 OR 4/6 DROP, HAD THEM ON MY 70 AND IT LOOKED REAL MEATY.

[61corv]

2 words...durability and reliability!!!! do it once and do it right. the early classic 4/6 is a great start with drop springs is the only way to do it right and safe. a 2.5 drop spindel with a 2 in drop front spring will last another 20 years. springs for the rear. if you want a little more use no more than a 1 in block. i have both and 7's and 10's on mine. 235/60 and 295/50 tires, no rubbing and bottoming out rides new and tight and i dont have to worry or adjust...just drive. also you may have not thought about exhaust yet....header will drag. i uses stock horns and still have 6 in of ground clearance.