12-21-2004, 12:14 AM | #1 |
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Lowering Blocks
Who has made their own lowering blocks for a swing arm truck?
Can you give some direction the more details the better. Thanks guys. Troy
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'72 C-10 w/ '68 Large Journal 327cu.in. "It's o.k. to dream about what you want to do, until you start doing what you are meant to do." Line from "The Rookie" |
12-21-2004, 12:28 AM | #2 |
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TxFirefighter has some good pics of his. All you need is square steel tubing, I beleive he welded caps on his ends to clean it up. Mark where the U bolt will go through, drill the holes, get longer U bolts and install. Very simple install.
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12-21-2004, 12:33 AM | #3 |
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Tx Firefighter is stupid.
He builds them out of 2x3 thick wall tubing. The ends are plated strictly for better looks. Use thick wall tubing like .125 or thicker. The longer U-bolts are from a local spring shop. Cost like 30 bucks total for the u-bolts and the steel for the blocks themselves.
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12-21-2004, 12:34 AM | #4 |
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Hehe I was hoping you'd read this thread
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12-21-2004, 03:56 AM | #5 |
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Tx Firefighter, what is the distance from the lower shock mount to the ground (as that truck is set up in the picture)?
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Martin Gibson
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12-21-2004, 08:16 AM | #6 |
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I don't know the distance. I sold the truck to my buddy, so I can't go outside and measure it. I will measure it next time I see the truck though.
Keep in mind though, that's a 17x8 inch wheel with a 31 inch tall tire on it (275/60/17) in the picture. If you ran an normal 15 inch wheel with a 28 inch tire, the U-bolt would be a lot closer to the ground.
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12-21-2004, 08:30 AM | #7 |
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I'm running what looks like the same tire as in the picture. The only problem I have is I'm in Iraq right now so I can't run out to the truck and do any measurements.
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Martin Gibson
USAF Retired 1964(-ish) C10 |
12-21-2004, 03:45 PM | #8 |
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Shocks?
Tx Firefighter.......
I currently have a set of KYB Gas-Adjust that have some miles on them and want to replace. Are the KYB GR shocks better in your opinion and if so, what part number did you use for the rear on your truck. The KYB website doesn't give a part number for the rear of coil equipped trucks and doesn't really indicate which shock is better. I have about a 5/7 drop and am not even sure if I should use the stock part number for the front as well. For that matter.......anyone with some good shock feedback can speek up!
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72 swb Cheyenne "nut & bolt" frame off (in process) Blown 383 |
12-21-2004, 04:47 PM | #9 |
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I like the GR2 a little better for lowered trucks. They're slightly softer and really seem to get along well under these trucks.
My trucks are usually lowered 4/6 or so, so I order the GR2's from ECE. They have figured out the part numbers to use under our trucks when they are lowered down real low. Call them, tell them how much you're dropped, and they'll fix you up with new Gr2's.
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12-21-2004, 07:04 PM | #10 |
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[B]Thanks Gents[/B]
Tx, what about using plate steel or aluminum 1/4" and stacking it? Do you think that would work?
Martin 64, Give 'em hell, and Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas to all
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'72 C-10 w/ '68 Large Journal 327cu.in. "It's o.k. to dream about what you want to do, until you start doing what you are meant to do." Line from "The Rookie" |
12-21-2004, 07:18 PM | #11 |
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Theres a kit that makes that, and a few board members I know have it. That way it is adjustable, you just put in however many peices you want. I've heard that they could slide on you though.
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12-21-2004, 07:38 PM | #12 |
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I was thinking something like this, that the U-bolts went thru.
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'72 C-10 w/ '68 Large Journal 327cu.in. "It's o.k. to dream about what you want to do, until you start doing what you are meant to do." Line from "The Rookie" |
12-21-2004, 08:31 PM | #13 |
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i used tx's idea and pic to make my blocks they worked awesome
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