Thinking about building a Dump truck

[cc_bob]

My daily driver (a 4wd POS ford I got it for $200) is getting tired and it is getting to the point where I should start thinking about it's replacement. I've always wanted a dump truck and as silly as it sounds I would like to use it for my daily driver. I only live about 5 miles from work so mileage is not really an issue. I am also into working in my garden and often pass up free compost because I would have to unload it by hand.

Here's the catch, I want it to be 4 wheel drive one ton, and I want it to be a 67-72 but from what I've heard they didn't make any (except the napco ones). My drive way is about 1000' long and we get a lot of snow because of Lake Erie.

How hard would it be to change one over to 4wd? I realize I would need a transfer case, and move the cross member, get a shorter rear shaft, and a front rear end. Once all of the 2wd suspension is unbolted will the 4wd spring hangers bolt right up? Will I need a different steering box?

I was also thinking about finding a later model 1 ton chassis, or one with a bad cab, and bed and just putting a cab and front clip on it. This would be the easiest (I think) but how hard are these to come by and what should I pay for one? I already have a decent cab and small block that I can use.

Please, I welcome your opinions and knowledge.
Thanks,
Bob

[ddsmith]

I currently have a 1966 C30 that has a dump/stakebed. I'm going to let it go to the junkyard in the sky because of cab problems and the lack of time to work on it. It has rear gears that make it sing when driving 55/60 mph. Rear differential has a No-Spin locker. On mine the pump for the dump is driven off of the PTO on the SM-465 transmission. So I guess the hard part would be fitting in the transfer case and my truck has a coil spring front end. I believe that the C30 two wheel drives used the coil spring setup in the 67-72 also. So that would need to be changed out to the leaf spring front end. I'm sure it could be done. I guess it just depends on how much work you feel like doing. Good luck.

Don

[Tx Firefighter]

Bob, I think it's Yukon Jack who has a buddy that has done a similar thing.

You should send him a PM and see what he has to say about the swap.

[LUV2XCLR8]

You Can Put A 67-72 Body On A 73-87 Chassis W/ Some Work

[cc_bob]

Ddsmith,
I am not too familiar with how the PTO is driven. Is there an extra shaft coming out of the actual tranny?

Tx FireFighter, I will shoot him a PM. Thanks.

Luv2xclr8, Do you know if the cab mounts have to be moved?

Thanks,

[86SILVERADO]

I plow with my 67 C30 and I think it is as good as any 4x4 out there. I have some pretty serious lugs on the rear tires but with a little weight in the back I can plow anything a single rear wheel truck can do. I also have the old sm 420 trans which has a slightly lower 1st gear ratio than the 465. I wouldn't be using it to plow driveways commercially or anything but I have been plowing my drive for two winters with it now and it has never been a problem. I even bought a locker for it and never bothered to install it because I didn't even need it.

[gr8scott51]

oldiron has a 1 ton dump, but it's 2 wheel drive. He might be able to give you some tips though.

[ddsmith]

The PTO is just a drive gear with an access point which allows connecting a driveshaft to the pump. It's sort of like a tractor PTO. Some transmissions were built with them available. Other's have no provisions for them. The PTO route is not the only means to get a dump functioning but I think it is the best method. You could use an electric driven pump if need be. My truck has one huge cylinder for the bed. The bed is 1/4" diamond deck and it is 9'x11+'. One good thing about it is that the bed will go at least 45 degrees. I think it is more like 55 or 60. It worked great when I took some metal to the dump. The control levers come through the truck floor. It can be all operated from inside. Transmission in neutral and clutch in. Lever the PTO into engagement and let out the clutch and the bed start going up. One lever engages/ disengages the PTO and the other applies/releases hydraulic pressure to allow the bed to go up/come down. If I had the time and energy to fix it the gas prices would kill me on this truck.

Don

[86SILVERADO]

Originally Posted by ddsmith

..... If I had the time and energy to fix it the gas prices would kill me on this truck.

Don

Tell me about it. Mine is my daily driver right now and it is costing about $80 a week. I would be interested in the truck but I don't have the 1000 that the shipping company wants to bring it up here. freight costs have gone through the roof in the past couple of years. Three years ago I paid 800 to have my silverado shipped up here from AZ. How soon are you going to get rid of it. I hate to hear of a truck like that going to the junkyard. There are very few of those one ton duallies left around.

[oldiron]

My 68 started out as a chasis mounted camper. You can get a electric hydrolic lift for the bed. Later model truck did come out as 1ton 4x4's. Here are a couple of shots of some 1tons with dump beds. The white one is mine.

[3 on the tree]

I wonder why you could not start w/ a K20 and put a 1 ton rearend under it? Never messed with anything but 1/2 tons, so I'm sure there is a logical reason why this would not work.

[Americanrider]

I have a '67 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4, Long fleet side, V-8 2bbl/420/rockwell TC, Eaton rear/D44 front. It's bone stock except for the original owner (a farmer) installed electric/hydro dump under the bed and 16" wheels rather than the old split rims.

The Downside:
1. One E-brake cable need re-routed around the pump that’s mounted to the inner frame. (mine is pass side)
2. The bed sits about 1 inch higher on the hinges and pads. (Bodyline mismatch)
3. The rear shocks are worn so I rub tires when I overload (easy fix whenever I get around to it).
4. The tailgate gets trashed real fast when you dump unless you remove it or use some 2x8 boards cut to fit. Also the bed bottom gets dented unless you beef it up.
5. Drill some holes in the front bed rest pads to install pushbutton lock pins, otherwise the front of the bed bounces when you hit a bump empty. (both noisy & it creates a strain on the hinges making the loose over time)
6. You might have to move your exhaust tips, re-route to the rear corners or in front of the rear wheels and you can't have a welded hitch, as both will interfere with the bed in the raised position. It's bumper pull hitch only unless you go with modified flat dumper like the ones pictured above. Which if I may say they do look sweet!

On the positive side:
Unloading 600 lbs of fill dirt/rock or a cord of firewood with just one finger is way to freaking easy! It's power up & gravity down. For a future project I'm adding a rear cab rack to give the front of the bed some weight and mount my spare & hi-lift to it with locks. Later I plan to put in a mount vertical 2' receiver for a for a small ATV winch w/remote below the rear window welded on the rack so I can pull up logs & heavy stuff into the bed without blowing my back out. I'll run the battery leads through the cab floor they will come out at the right rear corner with waterproof quick-disconnects. I can remove the winch when not in use to prevent theft or rust.

Unless you are going to do some real HEAVY hauling a 3/4 ton 4x4 w/ helper springs works out great. The cost of a brand new dump unit is about $900 out here on the north left coast. Since you are close to the heartland they may be cheaper or look for a used unit. I could send some pics in a few days if you want to get a closer look. Good Luck & Happy Holidays Ya'll

~Boone PICS POSTED BELOW

[JIMs70GMC]

American rider post some pics of your truck.
3 on the tree, there's no difference between the H052 and H072 rears, except for the size of the brakes and the H072 has a pinion load bolt. The ring gear is the same, axles are the same. Either could have a 2 or 4 pinion differential inside. This is from my 1970 service manual. What limits the capacity is the available tires/rims and springs. A one ton and 3/4 ton 4wd have the same frame width in the rear, spring perches also share the same spacing between the two.

[Americanrider]

#1 Note the damage to tailgate, happens when you try & dump onto uneven ground DOH! See above posting. There is only a couple inches clearance in the full UP position between bumper/tailgate edge & ground. #2 Front bed mount, #3 cab controls, #4 1/4 raised/bed must be moved back to clear cab, #5 Note mis-matched bodyline because bed was raised with dump mounts. Anybody in WA got a spare T-gate cheap?

[Americanrider]

#1 full up position, note position of tailpipes, must be able to clear when bed is up. #2 pump cotrol 'noid, #3 rear hinge, #4 Front mount, #5 tail clearance (not much)

[Americanrider]

See where the e-brake cable is rubbing on hoist pump-I gotta fix that
Also if you have or plan on having saddle tank(s) it will take some work to get them set right and be able to fill them. Drop me a line if you want to more pics or ideas. It may not be pretty but it works LIKE A ROCK!

[Canadian694x4]

Very Cool Setup Americanrider!

[passthebuck]

I have seen similar setups to what Americanrider has before & I like them. Does anybody know where a kit to do such a conversion is available?

[JIMs70GMC]

Isn't that a sisscors type arrangement? I like it!
Me, Randy and Kerry (Randy70c10 and wootdog) went and look at a buddy of mines "lot", among other things he's got a 1970 C50 w/ 16" dump and two speed rear axle that he said he would sell me. Has a 366. I just sold the 70 C30 to Randy, my wife will kill me if I show up with the c50.

[Americanrider]

PASSTHE BUCK: Does anybody know where a kit to do such conversion is available?

Check out: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...atchallpartial

http://www.venturo.com/workreadytruck.htm

http://www.surpluscenter.com/hydraul...name=hydraulic

Northern tool set ups look like the best deal, they even have long & short bed kits. Happy Dumping!

[Fat Tom]

Americanrider, you could put in a 1" body lift on the cab and front clip, then your body lines would match nicely again.

[NGN]

Americanrider and to all that this maybe of help . There's these brother's in the next town over from me that have a tree service bussiness for the pass twenty two years or so that I recall . It's because of there clean 71 and 72 C-20 I got to know them a bit thruogh the years , they use the heck out of those trucks and keep up with repairs , the trucks are always in good condition . Well there problem with the tailgate damage ( bows and big dents ) was minimize by installing two steel rods , one at the very top and one at the very bottom going through the sides . Sorry , but unfortunatly I don't recall the set-up used welding the steel rods in place or the thickness . I know it would rod fit into the inside of the curve and touch the two sides. Hope that makes scense and yes it made the tailgater heavy.
NGN
NICK
Old Bridge
New Jersey

[ChevLoRay]

There's a guy in Central Arkansas, who has a '69 C-50 dump truck. What is remarkable to me is that the it's a CST cab, painted turquoise with a white top. It has Alcoa wheels on it, with a tag axle. It's a nice truck. Wish I could find it again and get some pix.

[Americanrider]

Fat Tom,
Thanks, as far as the body line, I just brought that up for the sake of others who plan to convert with a dump bed. My '67 is a work truck and I'm really not to concerned with the looks as long as it functions correctly it's good enough. I like not having to worry over a little scratch or ding. Other folks here on the board are into the appearance of their truck, and thats good too, we all like Bowtie\GMC eye-candy.

NGN,
Great Idea, Thanks for sharing.
This T-gate of mine is to far gone to save, one of the tabs is busted off, the bottom edge is rusted out and it's bowed about 2 1/2 inches in the center. I'm surprised that it still hangs on the truck. The next one I get is going to get a 3/16 smooth steel interior welded to it, and maybe some inner steel bars too. I like big bullet-proof American made stuff!