Awesome deal on 3/4 ton 4x4 AXLES! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

yfs200p · 01-03-2005, 10:38 PM

Ok, so my buddy totalled his 86 K20 the other day, and he told me I could have the axles, rims, and tires off it for $200!! so i definitely think i'm going to go for it. But what i need to know, is how hard is it to convert a k10 to 3/4 ton? Would i have to get a new rear driveshaft? or is my 1/2 ton one OK?
And also... how bad would 4.10 gears be with 33" tires... i have 3.08's now and love being able to cruise 75-80 no problem. Will my truck even get going that fast with 4.10's? oh man this is a lot to think about, well i will snatch up those axles anyway, and if i dont use them, i'll throw them on the board for sale, so keep your eyes peeled... give me some advice, THANKS

Fry · 01-03-2005, 11:01 PM

I hated 3.08 with 33s. 4.10 is recommend with 33s by most charts and people.
When I swapped mine over it wasn't has much of a dramatic change as I thought it would be.
I'd go for it with that price.

soleeagle · 01-03-2005, 11:16 PM

to be safe I would get the drive shafts from your buddy too.

SanitysBane · 01-03-2005, 11:20 PM

what about the T-case?

yfs200p · 01-03-2005, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soleeagle

to be safe I would get the drive shafts from your buddy too.

Yes, good idea, and i will definitely get the front one, but he had a long bed, and i have a shortbed so i do not believe they rear shafts are the same length

IS THE T-CASE DIFFERENT???

Fry · 01-03-2005, 11:36 PM

I converted my 75 blazer over to 3/4 ton. You need a conversion u-joint. Mine was #447 I believe. There are 2 kinds one for inner clips, one for outter.
Front shaft will bolt up.
U-bolts and brake fluid is all you need.
You should make sure the brakes are good, 14bolt FF brakes are exspensive. More worth it to do rear discs if they need work.
Also you have ralleys so I'm guess you have 15s and the wheels he has are probably 16 so are you going with new 33s, or does he have 33s?
If your buying new maybe go with 35s if you want low revs?

yfs200p · 01-03-2005, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fry

Also you have ralleys so I'm guess you have 15s and the wheels he has are probably 16 so are you going with new 33s, or does he have 33s?
If your buying new maybe go with 35s if you want low revs?

Yes thats exactly what i was thinking... he has 31"s now which would look plain slilly with 4" lift. So i think i wll get 35"s. Keep your eyes peeled because i dont really like the rims and they might show up for sale sometime soon.

Fry · 01-03-2005, 11:45 PM

what wheels are you planning on going with?
H2s are cheap aluminum 8 bolt wheels but in 17" varity. Just a thought.

yfs200p · 01-03-2005, 11:52 PM

yeah tires for 17" wheels tend to run a bit expensive, plus im not a fan of teh H2 wheels. I was thinking possibly going for those ALCOA wheels from the 01+ 2500HD's
The wheels he has are AR Tailgunners... they are steel i belive
Dunlop Rover MT's.... verrrrry soft tire

cochino12 · 01-04-2005, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yfs200p

yeah tires for 17" wheels tend to run a bit expensive, plus im not a fan of teh H2 wheels. I was thinking possibly going for those ALCOA wheels from the 01+ 2500HD's
The wheels he has are AR Tailgunners... they are steel i belive
Dunlop Rover MT's.... verrrrry soft tire

I got my 305's (5) for my 17"s for only like $250 from an H2, I heard over on fsc.com you can go to a local H2 dealership and get BRAND NEW takoffs for like $200.

*1FaastC10* · 01-04-2005, 01:49 AM

your front shaft will work, as the front axle is identical to the one that is in your truck now, with teh exception of the 8 lug outers and gears. the rear i believe you will need a conversion u joint for, but shouldnt have a problem with the stock driveshaft.

1972 · 01-04-2005, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yfs200p

IS THE T-CASE DIFFERENT???

The t-cases are the same.

Here is a calculator that you can use to find what rpm you run at now and then do it again with your new combo to see how it changes.

yfs200p · 01-04-2005, 06:20 PM

hey 1972, how do i know what to enter in that calculator, i dont know the transmission values to enter. I know the gear ratio and transfer case but thats it...

And just to make sure, 315/75's are about the same as 35's, correct?

1972 · 01-04-2005, 06:32 PM

You can click the dot next to your transmission in the list to the right of the page, same way for your t-case, then it fills in the ratios automatically.

The 315/75-16 should be real close 35". Here is another calculator to play with. There is a metric to standard tire size calculator in it also.

01-03-2005, 10:38 PM	#1
yfs200p E.H.F.D Engine #2 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: East Hampton, NY Long Island Posts: 916	Awesome deal on 3/4 ton 4x4 AXLES! Ok, so my buddy totalled his 86 K20 the other day, and he told me I could have the axles, rims, and tires off it for $200!! so i definitely think i'm going to go for it. But what i need to know, is how hard is it to convert a k10 to 3/4 ton? Would i have to get a new rear driveshaft? or is my 1/2 ton one OK? And also... how bad would 4.10 gears be with 33" tires... i have 3.08's now and love being able to cruise 75-80 no problem. Will my truck even get going that fast with 4.10's? oh man this is a lot to think about, well i will snatch up those axles anyway, and if i dont use them, i'll throw them on the board for sale, so keep your eyes peeled... give me some advice, THANKS __________________ -NICK '72 K10 SWB Fleetside. Avocado Highlander 350-4speed-NP205 Frame Off Re-Creation '89 GMC V3500 C/C Flatbed Plow Truck 454/SM465/Np205 '15 Chevy 2500HD CCSB High Country Duramax '22 Tahoe Premier Duramax

01-03-2005, 11:16 PM	#3
soleeagle Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Shelbyville, Indiana Posts: 614	to be safe I would get the drive shafts from your buddy too. __________________ Chuck '85 Chevy Silverado 4X4 '91 Chevy 4X4 Suburban http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/545941

01-03-2005, 11:52 PM	#9
yfs200p E.H.F.D Engine #2 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: East Hampton, NY Long Island Posts: 916	yeah tires for 17" wheels tend to run a bit expensive, plus im not a fan of teh H2 wheels. I was thinking possibly going for those ALCOA wheels from the 01+ 2500HD's The wheels he has are AR Tailgunners... they are steel i belive Dunlop Rover MT's.... verrrrry soft tire Attached Images __________________ -NICK '72 K10 SWB Fleetside. Avocado Highlander 350-4speed-NP205 Frame Off Re-Creation '89 GMC V3500 C/C Flatbed Plow Truck 454/SM465/Np205 '15 Chevy 2500HD CCSB High Country Duramax '22 Tahoe Premier Duramax

01-04-2005, 06:20 PM	#13
yfs200p E.H.F.D Engine #2 Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: East Hampton, NY Long Island Posts: 916	hey 1972, how do i know what to enter in that calculator, i dont know the transmission values to enter. I know the gear ratio and transfer case but thats it... And just to make sure, 315/75's are about the same as 35's, correct? __________________ -NICK '72 K10 SWB Fleetside. Avocado Highlander 350-4speed-NP205 Frame Off Re-Creation '89 GMC V3500 C/C Flatbed Plow Truck 454/SM465/Np205 '15 Chevy 2500HD CCSB High Country Duramax '22 Tahoe Premier Duramax

01-03-2005, 11:01 PM	#2
Fry Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Sask, Canada Posts: 169	I hated 3.08 with 33s. 4.10 is recommend with 33s by most charts and people. When I swapped mine over it wasn't has much of a dramatic change as I thought it would be. I'd go for it with that price.

01-03-2005, 11:20 PM	#4
SanitysBane Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,121	what about the T-case? __________________ '96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer

01-03-2005, 11:36 PM	#6
Fry Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Sask, Canada Posts: 169	I converted my 75 blazer over to 3/4 ton. You need a conversion u-joint. Mine was #447 I believe. There are 2 kinds one for inner clips, one for outter. Front shaft will bolt up. U-bolts and brake fluid is all you need. You should make sure the brakes are good, 14bolt FF brakes are exspensive. More worth it to do rear discs if they need work. Also you have ralleys so I'm guess you have 15s and the wheels he has are probably 16 so are you going with new 33s, or does he have 33s? If your buying new maybe go with 35s if you want low revs?

01-03-2005, 11:45 PM	#8
Fry Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Sask, Canada Posts: 169	what wheels are you planning on going with? H2s are cheap aluminum 8 bolt wheels but in 17" varity. Just a thought.

01-04-2005, 01:49 AM	#11
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,399	your front shaft will work, as the front axle is identical to the one that is in your truck now, with teh exception of the 8 lug outers and gears. the rear i believe you will need a conversion u joint for, but shouldnt have a problem with the stock driveshaft.

01-04-2005, 06:32 PM	#14
1972 Majician Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: In the Middle Posts: 329	You can click the dot next to your transmission in the list to the right of the page, same way for your t-case, then it fills in the ratios automatically. The 315/75-16 should be real close 35". Here is another calculator to play with. There is a metric to standard tire size calculator in it also.



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