Help!!1 overheating problem - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 01-09-2005, 06:08 PM

the truck is still over heating.

its been doing this since i put in the new gears/posi.

when it was sitting and i put the gears in, i also changed the tstat and the fan sender.

the old 180tstat was stuck open and i put in a 200on/185off fan sender to replace the 180on/165??off

the truck would still over heat real bad, it would peg the guage all the way to 260 and stay there for a little while then go back down to normal temp.it did it about 5 times on the highway in a span of about 30 minutes. it doesnt matter if my heater is on or off.

i changed the tstat again with a different 180 unit and it is still doing it.
i also recently changed the heater hoses and it didnt help at all.

my dad noticed that my water pump doesnt sound really smooth like it should. could something wrong with the water pump cause it to overheat and act like that?

the radiator cap is the same one that was on the truck when i got it in 01', could that be a cause also??

i'm not loosing any coolant at all but when it does over heat i can smell coolant from the vents and stuff. i also ran the engine with the cap off the radiator to get most of the air out and filled it back up and its stayed full since.

i have no clue what to do next. i never had this problem before.

RockHQ · 01-09-2005, 06:50 PM

Slap a quality waterpump on it. Flowkooler makes good ones.

Destructo · 01-09-2005, 06:50 PM

It does this while cruising down the highway? If so that should rule out needing any fans, I rarely run my electric fans unless i'm in traffic or idling a lot. Have you checked your lower radiator hose? They have a spring in them to keep them from collapsing. I suppose a water pump could be a cause, but long as its still turning the impellar fine I don't see a reason for it to cause that problem.

To be honest it sounds like a t-stat problem but you said you tried another one.

phantom dually · 01-09-2005, 07:19 PM

I would run a 165 thermo and wire your fan switch up with a relay to have it run fulltime with the engine running only.

dons454s · 01-09-2005, 08:43 PM

If your pump is making noise or has play in it it is junk replace it and the rad cap. Look at the pump when you take it off there is probly some fin damage in there.

**Boog** · 01-09-2005, 09:52 PM

You may need to look into having the radiator flushed out. There may be some blockage in there causing some of your overheating problems. Might not have shown up before the gear change as the engine was operating at lower rpms. 2 row or 3 row radiator core?

C&C Chevy · 01-09-2005, 10:05 PM

Get a Stewart pump. My old one had some play it, so I got one from Stewart. It's been on for a few months and no problems. There stage 1 pumps are cost comparable to a hi-perf NAPA pump.

piecesparts · 01-09-2005, 10:47 PM

One other thing----Check your Temperature gauge and the sender. Put a thermometer (like you can buy for air conditioning, the stick probe kind) into the connection where the hose goes to the top radiator connection. It will tell you what temp you are running at. The temp sending unit could be going bonkers and ginving you some really erratic readings. I AM NOT SAYING, that you don't have an overheating problem, but you also need to know what you really have for temps. (Change the pump---make sure you get one that turns the right direction as your belt design allows) Have you flushed the radiator and the block?

low 84 · 01-10-2005, 11:51 AM

what kind of t-stat are you using? just a stock style. i used to have overheating problems with my old '64 c10 and i started using high flow t-stats. i use them in everything now and don't have overheating problems in any of my trucks.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...03&prmenbr=361

you can get them from jegs but some parts stores carry them also. you can see from looking at it that it allows alot more flow than the stock type.

since its doing it on the highway the only thing that really makes since is the t-stat, you shouldn't even need the fans on the highway

ocbaud · 01-10-2005, 12:48 PM

i first used a hiflow unit and it overheated so i changed to a stock style unit and it still over heats.

Slonaker · 01-10-2005, 05:30 PM

I don't know what kind of radiator you have, but mine came with a 2 row stock. Since you and I have the same truck (well, we did...

) I was able to replace it with a 3 row. It fits the same, and costs less than a 2 row. If you try to buy one, tell the guys at the counter your truck came with a 350 or they'll give you a 2 row.

Slonaker

ocbaud · 01-10-2005, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slonaker

I don't know what kind of radiator you have, but mine came with a 2 row stock. Since you and I have the same truck (well, we did...

) I was able to replace it with a 3 row. It fits the same, and costs less than a 2 row. If you try to buy one, tell the guys at the counter your truck came with a 350 or they'll give you a 2 row.

Slonaker

good to know

mine came with a 2 row and still has it in there.

i'll figure this out sometime soon hopefully. I'm at school now and wont be driving my truck as much. it just sits there being admired

hopefully nobody will try to jack it like they tried with ryans truck

Prerunner1982 · 01-10-2005, 06:44 PM

why go with a 3row when you can get a 4row? not that hard.. if you are changing it, might as well go big...

ocbaud · 01-10-2005, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

why go with a 3row when you can get a 4row? not that hard.. if you are changing it, might as well go big...

buy me an alum. radiator

01-09-2005, 06:08 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	Help!!1 overheating problem the truck is still over heating. its been doing this since i put in the new gears/posi. when it was sitting and i put the gears in, i also changed the tstat and the fan sender. the old 180tstat was stuck open and i put in a 200on/185off fan sender to replace the 180on/165??off the truck would still over heat real bad, it would peg the guage all the way to 260 and stay there for a little while then go back down to normal temp.it did it about 5 times on the highway in a span of about 30 minutes. it doesnt matter if my heater is on or off. i changed the tstat again with a different 180 unit and it is still doing it. i also recently changed the heater hoses and it didnt help at all. my dad noticed that my water pump doesnt sound really smooth like it should. could something wrong with the water pump cause it to overheat and act like that? the radiator cap is the same one that was on the truck when i got it in 01', could that be a cause also?? i'm not loosing any coolant at all but when it does over heat i can smell coolant from the vents and stuff. i also ran the engine with the cap off the radiator to get most of the air out and filled it back up and its stayed full since. i have no clue what to do next. i never had this problem before.

01-09-2005, 06:50 PM	#2
RockHQ ROCKET POWER! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Finland, Europe Posts: 509	Slap a quality waterpump on it. Flowkooler makes good ones. __________________ What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild

01-09-2005, 06:50 PM	#3
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	It does this while cruising down the highway? If so that should rule out needing any fans, I rarely run my electric fans unless i'm in traffic or idling a lot. Have you checked your lower radiator hose? They have a spring in them to keep them from collapsing. I suppose a water pump could be a cause, but long as its still turning the impellar fine I don't see a reason for it to cause that problem. To be honest it sounds like a t-stat problem but you said you tried another one. __________________ 1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle.

01-09-2005, 07:19 PM	#4
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,793	I would run a 165 thermo and wire your fan switch up with a relay to have it run fulltime with the engine running only. __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

01-09-2005, 09:52 PM	#6
Boog laying low Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Searcy, Ark. USA Posts: 13,110	You may need to look into having the radiator flushed out. There may be some blockage in there causing some of your overheating problems. Might not have shown up before the gear change as the engine was operating at lower rpms. 2 row or 3 row radiator core? __________________ Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross

01-09-2005, 08:43 PM	#5
dons454s Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Claysburg, Pa Posts: 408	If your pump is making noise or has play in it it is junk replace it and the rad cap. Look at the pump when you take it off there is probly some fin damage in there.

01-09-2005, 10:05 PM	#7
C&C Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Midwest City, OK Posts: 1,001	Get a Stewart pump. My old one had some play it, so I got one from Stewart. It's been on for a few months and no problems. There stage 1 pumps are cost comparable to a hi-perf NAPA pump. __________________ Robert Current: 1986 SWB Silverado 4.3 / TH400 Past: 1985 SWB Silverado 305 / TH350 - sold 1995 1987 1/2 ton Silverado - FI 350 / 700R4 sold 2007

01-09-2005, 10:47 PM	#8
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	One other thing----Check your Temperature gauge and the sender. Put a thermometer (like you can buy for air conditioning, the stick probe kind) into the connection where the hose goes to the top radiator connection. It will tell you what temp you are running at. The temp sending unit could be going bonkers and ginving you some really erratic readings. I AM NOT SAYING, that you don't have an overheating problem, but you also need to know what you really have for temps. (Change the pump---make sure you get one that turns the right direction as your belt design allows) Have you flushed the radiator and the block?

01-10-2005, 11:51 AM	#9
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	what kind of t-stat are you using? just a stock style. i used to have overheating problems with my old '64 c10 and i started using high flow t-stats. i use them in everything now and don't have overheating problems in any of my trucks. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...03&prmenbr=361 you can get them from jegs but some parts stores carry them also. you can see from looking at it that it allows alot more flow than the stock type. since its doing it on the highway the only thing that really makes since is the t-stat, you shouldn't even need the fans on the highway __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

01-10-2005, 12:48 PM	#10
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	i first used a hiflow unit and it overheated so i changed to a stock style unit and it still over heats.

01-10-2005, 05:30 PM	#11
Slonaker Insert Witty Text Here Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 3,415	I don't know what kind of radiator you have, but mine came with a 2 row stock. Since you and I have the same truck (well, we did... ) I was able to replace it with a 3 row. It fits the same, and costs less than a 2 row. If you try to buy one, tell the guys at the counter your truck came with a 350 or they'll give you a 2 row. Slonaker __________________ '86 Chevy C10 (Sold 04/19/13 ) Stock '01 Silverado

01-10-2005, 06:44 PM	#13
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,906	why go with a 3row when you can get a 4row? not that hard.. if you are changing it, might as well go big...



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