Need Help - Hub Noise - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72 Cheyenne K20 · 01-06-2005, 10:00 PM

Hi, I have a 70 3/4 ton w/350/350/NP205. I just got the 205 shifter and linkage put back in tonight and it works perfect. The linkage is tight and the transfer case shifts w/no probs. I ran it on the street to make sure it worked but no go. I'm getting a click-clock noise coming from the drivers side, sounds like the hub. Can't hear the pass side. I put it in Hi and Low and don't feel any pull from the front. Any suggestions before I rip and tear would be great?

Thanks, Scott

turkeyguide · 01-06-2005, 10:57 PM

Scott, May I suggest jacking up all 4 corners of the truck and have someone put the truck in gear and allow the tires to turn. You can listen more closely (from a safe distance) to locate your problem.

**JIMs70GMC** · 01-07-2005, 08:00 AM

Also the gear driven case is not forgivig when driven on the road. Sounds like the driver side hub is not engaged and all front driveshft power is going to the spinning axle shaft. I agree get the front off the ground and with the truck off, hubs locked and TC in neutral rotate the front driveshaft by hand and then have some one hold each of the front tires. I bet the driver side hub is your problem.

rich-white · 01-07-2005, 07:12 PM

had that sound before... hub not locking in. took apart cleaned worked fine never figured what caused. Maybe piece of grit....

784X4GUY · 01-07-2005, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rich-white

had that sound before... hub not locking in. took apart cleaned worked fine never figured what caused. Maybe piece of grit....

I've heard of alot of people taking apart their hubs and regreasing them and then they worked just like new...Later Mike

72 Cheyenne K20 · 01-07-2005, 09:41 PM

Thanks Guys, I just looked at a diagram of the front hub and axle. Is it as confusing as it looks. Also, I put it up on stands today and noticed that the clunking noise was coming from the bearing at the end ot the axle. Is this a pain in the a$$ to replace.

Thanks, Scott

**special-K** · 01-09-2005, 10:44 AM

No,just simple,step by strp mechanics.Just lay everything out in order it came off.I think you`ll find a L/O problem and nothing more.If so,the wheel hub doesn`t need to be disturbed.

4x4Poet · 01-09-2005, 01:27 PM

Mr. Turkeyguide made a great suggestion. Underbody souunds can be difficult to locate because they can bounce or travel thru near anything under the frame. The driveshaft tube, the axle tubes, the xfer case, etc. can be sound conductors. Isolating the sound is a wise precaution to stave off any unnecessary mechanical procedures. Now, if the hubs and lockouts need repacking anyway....

Also, when I work on my trucks, any new symptom noticed right after one of my repair actions is most likely due to the repair methods I used. As in not exactly right.

I would never impute to you my level of mechanical ability, but since you played with the xfer shifter, you might check if you have the front driveshaft engaged slightly when the xfer is shifted into 2wd. Pull one of the shifter covers to view the front driveshaft as you drive. Maybe a shifter adjustment is all that's necessary. Sorry for the unfair comparison.

72 Cheyenne K20 · 01-11-2005, 12:50 AM

4x4Poet, not unfair at all, I've broken many things fixin other stuff. You bring up a good point. I got the truck off the ground and shifted into drive. The first thing I noticed is that the u joint was fried, I don't know how it's still on. But I also noticed that while the truck is in 2wd I have front axle rotation. It's not just free rotation, I tried to put pressure on it to stop it but no go. So I'm getting some push in the front axles even in 2wd. I didn't know there was an adjustment I can make, can you please explain?

Thanks, Scott

4x4Poet · 01-11-2005, 02:45 AM

I don't have the expertise to know if that is a problem with the shifter or internal to the xfer case. How is the condition of the shifter bushing at the xfer shifter's pivot point? A good pivot point bushing enhances attaining crisp shift points.

Also, have you played with the xfer shifter positions by moving it slightly within the 2wd position. See if you can find a spot that seems fully engaged but lets the front driveshaft free-rotate. Then you could drive it without touching the shifter to check if it pops out of gear which would at least indicate that you couldn't get the front driveshaft to release to free rotation without compromising the 2wd shifter location. Make sure the xfer shifter never touches the hump opening or boot retainer.

That's about all I can think of without tearing into the xfer case. I have a good NP205 repair procedure site if you want it. Not to forcast events.

01-06-2005, 10:00 PM	#1
72 Cheyenne K20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Staunton, Virginia Posts: 554	Need Help - Hub Noise Hi, I have a 70 3/4 ton w/350/350/NP205. I just got the 205 shifter and linkage put back in tonight and it works perfect. The linkage is tight and the transfer case shifts w/no probs. I ran it on the street to make sure it worked but no go. I'm getting a click-clock noise coming from the drivers side, sounds like the hub. Can't hear the pass side. I put it in Hi and Low and don't feel any pull from the front. Any suggestions before I rip and tear would be great? Thanks, Scott

01-07-2005, 08:00 AM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Also the gear driven case is not forgivig when driven on the road. Sounds like the driver side hub is not engaged and all front driveshft power is going to the spinning axle shaft. I agree get the front off the ground and with the truck off, hubs locked and TC in neutral rotate the front driveshaft by hand and then have some one hold each of the front tires. I bet the driver side hub is your problem. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

01-09-2005, 10:44 AM	#7
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,851	No,just simple,step by strp mechanics.Just lay everything out in order it came off.I think you`ll find a L/O problem and nothing more.If so,the wheel hub doesn`t need to be disturbed. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

01-09-2005, 01:27 PM	#8
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Mr. Turkeyguide made a great suggestion. Underbody souunds can be difficult to locate because they can bounce or travel thru near anything under the frame. The driveshaft tube, the axle tubes, the xfer case, etc. can be sound conductors. Isolating the sound is a wise precaution to stave off any unnecessary mechanical procedures. Now, if the hubs and lockouts need repacking anyway.... Also, when I work on my trucks, any new symptom noticed right after one of my repair actions is most likely due to the repair methods I used. As in not exactly right. I would never impute to you my level of mechanical ability, but since you played with the xfer shifter, you might check if you have the front driveshaft engaged slightly when the xfer is shifted into 2wd. Pull one of the shifter covers to view the front driveshaft as you drive. Maybe a shifter adjustment is all that's necessary. Sorry for the unfair comparison. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

01-11-2005, 02:45 AM	#10
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	I don't have the expertise to know if that is a problem with the shifter or internal to the xfer case. How is the condition of the shifter bushing at the xfer shifter's pivot point? A good pivot point bushing enhances attaining crisp shift points. Also, have you played with the xfer shifter positions by moving it slightly within the 2wd position. See if you can find a spot that seems fully engaged but lets the front driveshaft free-rotate. Then you could drive it without touching the shifter to check if it pops out of gear which would at least indicate that you couldn't get the front driveshaft to release to free rotation without compromising the 2wd shifter location. Make sure the xfer shifter never touches the hump opening or boot retainer. That's about all I can think of without tearing into the xfer case. I have a good NP205 repair procedure site if you want it. Not to forcast events. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 01-11-2005 at 02:49 AM.

01-06-2005, 10:57 PM	#2
turkeyguide Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Gilbert, SC Posts: 45	Scott, May I suggest jacking up all 4 corners of the truck and have someone put the truck in gear and allow the tires to turn. You can listen more closely (from a safe distance) to locate your problem.

01-07-2005, 07:12 PM	#4
rich-white Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: st. Louis Missouri Posts: 414	had that sound before... hub not locking in. took apart cleaned worked fine never figured what caused. Maybe piece of grit....

01-07-2005, 09:41 PM	#6
72 Cheyenne K20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Staunton, Virginia Posts: 554	Thanks Guys, I just looked at a diagram of the front hub and axle. Is it as confusing as it looks. Also, I put it up on stands today and noticed that the clunking noise was coming from the bearing at the end ot the axle. Is this a pain in the a$$ to replace. Thanks, Scott

01-11-2005, 12:50 AM	#9
72 Cheyenne K20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Staunton, Virginia Posts: 554	4x4Poet, not unfair at all, I've broken many things fixin other stuff. You bring up a good point. I got the truck off the ground and shifted into drive. The first thing I noticed is that the u joint was fried, I don't know how it's still on. But I also noticed that while the truck is in 2wd I have front axle rotation. It's not just free rotation, I tried to put pressure on it to stop it but no go. So I'm getting some push in the front axles even in 2wd. I didn't know there was an adjustment I can make, can you please explain? Thanks, Scott



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