Painters question

[72dually]

Since Im going with all new goodmark sheetmetal, will there be additional work needed to prep the panels for paint?
Also, what kind of increase should I expect to pay extra for painting each panel individually, percentage wise?

[Randy70C-10]

No more prep work than the original panels, probably even less. All I do is scuff them with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper (and warm soapy water), shoot them with a good quality primer sealer and paint, that's it!

[67ChevyRedneck]

I'm not sure what your asking about the paint. If your having a body shop paint each individual piece seperately it probably will cost a good bit more than painting a whole truck, especially if they will also be reassembling it. If your asking how much more it will cost you to paint them yourself in terms of the amount of paint, not much. I would personally paint everything, both sides, and you'll have a heck of a nice truck!

[72dually]

Nah, Im not a painter, I'll leave that to the professionals, Its going to be black, I will be reassembling

[72dually]

Thought of something else, was the black they used in our trucks a laquer or ???
I guess what Im asking is, what type of paint used now would look best and somewhat original?

[Randy70C-10]

Nobody uses laquer anymore. You'll want to use base coat/clear coat. I will be a bit more shiney than the original paint job though.

[gonebad2]

About the closest you will get to original is using an acrylic enamel. The Feds are outlawing lacquer. The VOC levels are too high.

[vk_chevy]

Most of the aftermarket panels that I've ever worked with required small amount of work, small dings or dents from forming the panels, minor damage in shipping, etc..
Some panels are better than others but I would definatly do a dry fit to make sure every part fits as it should and you get the gaps that you want. If you haven't done much autobody work, you'll be surprised how much tweeking new parts need for proper fitment.

As far as painting panels separetly or installed, it's up to the painter. Some like to cut the parts in, assemble all and then paint the outside. Some like to dry fit everything and then do the painting of panels separetly.

[bagged91]

I like to "wet sand" any new parts with 400 grit as Randy said. I use a good quality Urethane/Catylyst primer. Although most people are using Base/Clear systems nowadays, I have had excellent results using Dupont Centari #99A "Pitch Black" with hardner. Flows nicely and when rubbed out looks amazing. It's cheap too(approx. $90.00/gal + hardner).

Not sure on the actual paint code but I did see a fella around here with a restored 90' SS454 p/u. He said it was shot B/C in the original Onyx Black. It was nice looking, very deep & wet looking.

[72dually]

I appreciate the tips guys, just a great group of knowlegable people here

[Randy70C-10]

Originally Posted by bagged91

I I have had excellent results using Dupont Centari #99A "Pitch Black" with hardner.

I've used that exact same stuff as well, awesome paint! There was a time when you could get a clear coat for Centari but they don't make it anymore. I always thought that the Centari clear was much better than Chroma base but I guess that we're stuck with Chroma base if we want to use clear. I always use clear since I do flames and graphics but pitch black with a gloss hardner would be MUCH cheaper and look as good.

[bagged91]

Yea, we shot my 73 SS Nova in 1989 with Dupont Centari in front of my dads garage in the driveway. Great paint to use... Car still looks like this(picture taken winter of last year during one of it's FEW trips on the street).

[Randy70C-10]

Here's my 47 Chevy in 99a pitch black (with Centari clear).....

[4x4Poet]

Originally Posted by bagged91

...I have had excellent results using Dupont Centari #99A "Pitch Black" with hardner. Flows nicely and when rubbed out looks amazing...It was nice looking, very deep & wet looking.

Bagged, how deep and wet looking compared to basecoat/clearcoat?

Everybody, how does the acrylic enamel and the Centari hold up to UV rays?

[Randy70C-10]

The pic of my 47 Chevy was taken about 6 years after the paint job, I never waxed it (only wiped it off once in a while with glass cleaner and a shammy)

[72dually]

If the gmc shortbed looks half as good as the 47, Im sold

[72dually]

Randy70C-10, I was looking at your photo's of trucks under construction, and that tubbed truck is the sh++, I love it. Got any more photo's of that thing?

[Dean23]

heres my fenders and hood painted in base clear, no clear on them yet. Itss millenium yellow. something like $70 a quart up here

[bagged91]

Well, the last black car we did in Centari looked georgous. I don't have a pic but it was a black 58' Eldorado convertible w/white top/interior. Car had 3 coats of A/E, rubbed out with 1200 and then machine buffed with "TrimBright- Liquid Ebony". The Liquid Ebony was the best $hit I ever used on black. Made acrylic enamel look like 20 coats of hand rubbed black laquer. It has been discontinued for quite a few years now. I have a few bottles stashed for the good stuff. 3M has some stuff out in it's Proffesional line of polishes that works nice. As with any paint, a good wax will always help it last longer and keep the deepness. Once the paint is rubbed out, it seems to oxidize faster. I usually wax 3-4 times a year. Car stays garaged most of the time unless my dad is doing something in the garage.

[Randy70C-10]

Originally Posted by bagged91

Well, the last black car we did in Centari looked georgous.

Thanks!! I had that car for 15 years, I miss the hell out of it. I wish that I had kept it and sold the Model A instead.

[bagged91]

I've been itchin' to do one of the 46-8 Chevy's like your old one Randy. They are neat. I wanted to do it O/S with a slight drop in front but dragn' the arse. I want to do a full fade on the front fenders to the rear fenders, Olds grille, skirts, nosed/decked and painted Candy Red/white roll n pleat.

[Randy70C-10]

Mine was nosed, decked, and frenched, and all trim was shaved, we just didn't shave the door handles. Thanks to the 69 Camaro clip we were able to slam it too.

[4x4Poet]

Thanks for the opinions and interesting insights.

BTW, if you use Durashine on acrylic enamel with no wax ever you'll stave off UV fading and oxidation. The best part is the Durashine goes on after washing by lightly slabbering it on with a fine sponge applicator and then rinsing off the excess with a light hose stream after drying ten minutes. The water sheets off. So there's little or no chance of leaving wax swirl marks since there's no wax application or the rubbing off of wax residue. Great for keeping high-dollar paint jobs pristine since Durashine is near hands off or at least no hard pressure from rubbing on or off wax..

Durashine needs no wax to be present for it to get at the paint proper and fill the pores/pits as it's designed to. So either start with a fresh paint job or remove the wax with polishing compound (or whatever works best). Then wash with Durawash before Durashine application.

On a daily driver, I've found Durashine lasts about 6 months, though less with brushless machine carwashings. So I have to apply monthly thru a Montana winter when it's too cold to wash by hand. I imagine it works fine with clearcoat too. I just don't have first hand experience. I'd bet a garage queen would retain Durashine for over a year due to the protection from the elements and since the Durawash has some of the Durashine polish in it that touches up the polish during washings between actual polish applications. I'll never "wax" again.