OH CRAP! Just broke something important! - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chickenwing · 01-12-2005, 11:26 AM

sharp eye Ark... Poor guy allready has enough problems.

neonlarry · 01-12-2005, 02:35 PM

I dont think that the bolt is going to come out very easily, becasue from the sound of it, he stripped the threads, then snapped it trying to take it back out. If I remember correctly the proper way to fix it was as I said before, drill the bolt out, then tap the hole for the larger big block size balencer bolt. Only problem is, with a broken easy out in the hole, I think the eaisest way to fix it properly would be with a diferent crankshaft.

***Josh*** · 01-12-2005, 03:02 PM

I'd just tap it on, with a dead blow and block of wood. I've done it many times without issues, only time i ever saw it screw upt eh thrust bearing the guy pounded it on with a 5lb sledge without a block of wood or anythign to buffer the impact... Then a lil tack weld and it should be fine, unless this is some high horsepower high revving motor I wouldn't worry.

**guyryan100** · 01-14-2005, 02:47 PM

One more question... what if I were to JBWeld a 3/8" threaded rod into the end of the crank so that I could put a nut on the end to ensure that the balancer doesn't move? I would either put this in place after pounding the balancer on or would use a piece of wood with a hole drilled for the rod when I pound on the damper. this way I could remove the damper in the future without having to grind off welds, and wouldn't have to find someone to weld the balancer on for me. Would the jbweld hold up in this configuration?

chickenwing · 01-14-2005, 03:29 PM

Cant answer the question with certainty.... My first instinct is no. Would be a tension load on a small area.

**guyryan100** · 01-14-2005, 04:34 PM

I should add that the rod would have about 1" inside the end of the crank. I'm also worried about heat and vibration.

70short · 01-14-2005, 04:59 PM

If you have 1" of usable threads just use A shorter bolt and lock tight.

Gary

Tx Firefighter · 01-14-2005, 08:47 PM

JB Weld isn't near up to a load like you're thinking it is.

Warbones · 01-15-2005, 02:50 AM

Scratch my idea. I knew it was a long shot. A lot of good ideas though. I hope you get it worked out.

neonlarry · 01-15-2005, 04:03 PM

Just pull the oil pan back off, and fix the seal, and pound the balencer on with a dead blow hammer or a block of wood, then tack weld it to the crank. You wont want to be using that crank in another engine now anyway, so really that is the eaisest way to fix it.

01-12-2005, 11:26 AM	#26
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	sharp eye Ark... Poor guy allready has enough problems. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

01-12-2005, 02:35 PM	#27
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	I dont think that the bolt is going to come out very easily, becasue from the sound of it, he stripped the threads, then snapped it trying to take it back out. If I remember correctly the proper way to fix it was as I said before, drill the bolt out, then tap the hole for the larger big block size balencer bolt. Only problem is, with a broken easy out in the hole, I think the eaisest way to fix it properly would be with a diferent crankshaft. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

01-12-2005, 03:02 PM	#28
*Josh* He's got mean nasty FANGS! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Rockwell, NC Posts: 6,509	I'd just tap it on, with a dead blow and block of wood. I've done it many times without issues, only time i ever saw it screw upt eh thrust bearing the guy pounded it on with a 5lb sledge without a block of wood or anythign to buffer the impact... Then a lil tack weld and it should be fine, unless this is some high horsepower high revving motor I wouldn't worry. __________________ 2004 K2500 Burb 1999 C3500 1985 Cutlass Supreme 1969 C-10 1967 C-10 Panel josh@67-72chevytrucks.com

01-14-2005, 03:29 PM	#30
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	Cant answer the question with certainty.... My first instinct is no. Would be a tension load on a small area. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

01-14-2005, 04:59 PM	#32
70short Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boise ID Posts: 609	If you have 1" of usable threads just use A shorter bolt and lock tight. Gary __________________ "72" Red CORVETTE 4-speed 350 "70" Chevy Short Bed early stages of resto. Edel 600 cfm carb Weiand Stealth Intake HEI shorty Headers 4/2 Drop 295 50R 15 TOYO on 10 inch wide corvette rally rims at all 4 corners. "CHEVY RULES"

01-14-2005, 02:47 PM	#29
guyryan100 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Cumming, GA Posts: 471	One more question... what if I were to JBWeld a 3/8" threaded rod into the end of the crank so that I could put a nut on the end to ensure that the balancer doesn't move? I would either put this in place after pounding the balancer on or would use a piece of wood with a hole drilled for the rod when I pound on the damper. this way I could remove the damper in the future without having to grind off welds, and wouldn't have to find someone to weld the balancer on for me. Would the jbweld hold up in this configuration?

01-14-2005, 04:34 PM	#31
guyryan100 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Cumming, GA Posts: 471	I should add that the rod would have about 1" inside the end of the crank. I'm also worried about heat and vibration.

01-14-2005, 08:47 PM	#33
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	JB Weld isn't near up to a load like you're thinking it is. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-15-2005, 02:50 AM	#34
Warbones Navel Inspector Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Wichita, Ks Posts: 1,373	Scratch my idea. I knew it was a long shot. A lot of good ideas though. I hope you get it worked out. __________________ 1948 Chevy Aerosedan GONE! I think. 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham Coupe WANTED 1967 IMPALA 1967 CST C10 Long Bed with a 283

01-15-2005, 04:03 PM	#35
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	Just pull the oil pan back off, and fix the seal, and pound the balencer on with a dead blow hammer or a block of wood, then tack weld it to the crank. You wont want to be using that crank in another engine now anyway, so really that is the eaisest way to fix it. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI



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