How do you replace hinge pins/bushings and striker bolt? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

woody96 · 01-18-2005, 03:23 PM

I have a 1984 C10 with sagging drivers door----and got from the forum here that I probably just need to replace the hinge pins/bushings, and probably the striker bolt.......can someone tell me briefly how this is done? THX!!!

**Captkaos** · 01-18-2005, 04:17 PM

Although it is on a T/A, still same concept.
http://transamtech.com/doorpintech.html
Striker unbolts with a torqs.

MylilBowTie · 01-18-2005, 04:34 PM

There is a but I think behind the striker bolt that you need to hold. Otherwise it will fall down to the bottom of the cab corner. If you have factory rear 4x10 speakers or aftermarket ones you need to remove those and you should be able to feel what I'm talking about.

I also have pictures of the fuse box for you.

woody96 · 01-18-2005, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

There is a but I think behind the striker bolt that you need to hold. Otherwise it will fall down to the bottom of the cab corner. If you have factory rear 4x10 speakers or aftermarket ones you need to remove those and you should be able to feel what I'm talking about.

I also have pictures of the fuse box for you.

THX!!!!!! Very much appreciated...can you tell me if there should be a a/c fuse? I have a/c with this truck, but looking at the fusebox and yours, looks like there is an aux/a/c fuse holder/place for a fuse...your pix shows that fuse missing........

flip66 · 01-18-2005, 07:10 PM

With the door opened all the way put a jack under it and raise it just enough to hold it in place make sure you do not go to low or to high, mark the door hinge and pull it out when you are pulling it make sure there is no tension on it, if so adjust the jack so there is not. You can just do the work on the bench itâ€™s allot easer. You will have to cut the old pin because it is crimped at the top and slide the new pin in from the top. If you do not move the jack and put the hinge back like you marked it, it should shut fine.

gmcbob · 01-18-2005, 08:44 PM

Just my $.02:

On my driver's side door, I tried the Hinge "Pin & Bushing" replacement about a year ago on my '78. After the replacement was completed, and everything re-installed and re-aligned, and after I started using the door again, the stupid hinge pins kept popping up (1/8 to 1/4", just enought to cause the door to sag again!). I tried pounding them in, and tac-welding the heads in place, but nothing held.

Ended up re-doing everything, but this time replaced the entire hinges with new GM. Great results. Had to pull the front fender to adjust the door. Door closes like a charm (no more slamming doors!). No that it's done, it is one of the most satisfying projects I have completed on my truck.

Either way you go though, one recommendation: Mask-Tape your door and fender edges to avoid damaging your paint, oops

. Careful the first time you try to close the door also, so you don't hit & buckle you door or fender.

Good luck!

Bob "gmcbob"

woody96 · 01-18-2005, 08:54 PM

Boy , thanks all, ....great advice...I was sure hoping to do this with the door on, etc.,.......but, maybe I can huh.......sounds like it is better almost to have the door off and fender off.........any other thoughts??

Mike76251 · 01-19-2005, 08:13 AM

I tacked (with a mig) my new pin 6 years ago................... but I put it in from the bottom like the factory pin..........has held great thus far.

woody96 · 01-19-2005, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

There is a but I think behind the striker bolt that you need to hold. Otherwise it will fall down to the bottom of the cab corner. If you have factory rear 4x10 speakers or aftermarket ones you need to remove those and you should be able to feel what I'm talking about.

I also have pictures of the fuse box for you.

Can someone tell me if there is supposed to be a fuse in there where it is marked aux heat/ A/C?? My fusebox is exactly the same and I have A/C...BTW, the compressor is not kicking in...due to this fuse missing maybe???

Mike76251 · 01-19-2005, 12:05 PM

His box looks like no A/C on that truck..........no blades for a fuse in that slot.
If your A/C is factory installed, you will see blades in that slot for a fuse.

I pretty sure all that fuse handles is the compressor clutch so if yours won't come on.........stick a fuse in and try it.
If it still doesn't work, the low pressure cut-off switch is probably preventing the compressor clutch from coming on....meaning your out of Freon (and oil).

woody96 · 01-19-2005, 12:08 PM

THX a lot.......Any ideas as to the type amperage for that fuse???

Mike76251 · 01-19-2005, 12:13 PM

Try a 10 amp to start.
I think it calls for a 20 once you know it won't burn the truck to the ground.
Makes me wonder why the fuse was pulled................probably just out of Freon though.
People do that.

Mike76251 · 01-19-2005, 12:20 PM

BTW....notice in his pic all the fuse locations have the amperage rating of the fuses printed.
His don't have it in the A/C slot because his truck didn't come with A/C.
It should be on yours.

woody96 · 01-19-2005, 12:34 PM

thanks A Lot!!!

woody96 · 01-24-2005, 11:03 AM

Would it be better to just replace the entire hinge?

I have found some (which include the bushings, etc.) and they are $15 for the entire unit.....Would it be easier to mark the outline of the hinge on the truck, take off the old upper hinge, put on the new upper hinge, and hopefully everything will be good to go......

MylilBowTie · 01-24-2005, 04:16 PM

?? Mine has A/C stock but I have remove most of it in the engine bay.

01-18-2005, 03:23 PM	#1
woody96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chapin, SC Posts: 392	How do you replace hinge pins/bushings and striker bolt? I have a 1984 C10 with sagging drivers door----and got from the forum here that I probably just need to replace the hinge pins/bushings, and probably the striker bolt.......can someone tell me briefly how this is done? THX!!!

01-18-2005, 04:17 PM	#2
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	Although it is on a T/A, still same concept. http://transamtech.com/doorpintech.html Striker unbolts with a torqs. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com

01-18-2005, 04:34 PM	#3
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	There is a but I think behind the striker bolt that you need to hold. Otherwise it will fall down to the bottom of the cab corner. If you have factory rear 4x10 speakers or aftermarket ones you need to remove those and you should be able to feel what I'm talking about. I also have pictures of the fuse box for you. __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI

01-18-2005, 07:10 PM	#5
flip66 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Garland TX Dallas area Posts: 658	With the door opened all the way put a jack under it and raise it just enough to hold it in place make sure you do not go to low or to high, mark the door hinge and pull it out when you are pulling it make sure there is no tension on it, if so adjust the jack so there is not. You can just do the work on the bench itâ€™s allot easer. You will have to cut the old pin because it is crimped at the top and slide the new pin in from the top. If you do not move the jack and put the hinge back like you marked it, it should shut fine. __________________ 1998 Pontiac Grad Prix GTP 1969 C10 396 TH400 3.08 posi

01-18-2005, 08:44 PM	#6
gmcbob Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 57	Just my $.02: On my driver's side door, I tried the Hinge "Pin & Bushing" replacement about a year ago on my '78. After the replacement was completed, and everything re-installed and re-aligned, and after I started using the door again, the stupid hinge pins kept popping up (1/8 to 1/4", just enought to cause the door to sag again!). I tried pounding them in, and tac-welding the heads in place, but nothing held. Ended up re-doing everything, but this time replaced the entire hinges with new GM. Great results. Had to pull the front fender to adjust the door. Door closes like a charm (no more slamming doors!). No that it's done, it is one of the most satisfying projects I have completed on my truck. Either way you go though, one recommendation: Mask-Tape your door and fender edges to avoid damaging your paint, oops . Careful the first time you try to close the door also, so you don't hit & buckle you door or fender. Good luck! Bob "gmcbob" __________________ Bob 1978 GMC Sierra Classic K15 Shortbed, 350/350/NP203, 31's on Rally's, Restored to Stock Condition. Two-tone Russett Metallic / Buckskin. 1987 GMC Sierra Classic V1500, Longbed, 350 TBI, NP205, 33’s on Chrome Spoke with 4” Suspension Lift. Black. 2014 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax Crewcab

01-18-2005, 08:54 PM	#7
woody96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chapin, SC Posts: 392	Door hinge pins and bushings replacement..... Boy , thanks all, ....great advice...I was sure hoping to do this with the door on, etc.,.......but, maybe I can huh.......sounds like it is better almost to have the door off and fender off.........any other thoughts??

01-19-2005, 08:13 AM	#8
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	I tacked (with a mig) my new pin 6 years ago................... but I put it in from the bottom like the factory pin..........has held great thus far.

01-19-2005, 12:05 PM	#10
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	His box looks like no A/C on that truck..........no blades for a fuse in that slot. If your A/C is factory installed, you will see blades in that slot for a fuse. I pretty sure all that fuse handles is the compressor clutch so if yours won't come on.........stick a fuse in and try it. If it still doesn't work, the low pressure cut-off switch is probably preventing the compressor clutch from coming on....meaning your out of Freon (and oil).

01-19-2005, 12:08 PM	#11
woody96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chapin, SC Posts: 392	Type amperage fuse for that slot?? THX a lot.......Any ideas as to the type amperage for that fuse???

01-19-2005, 12:13 PM	#12
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	Try a 10 amp to start. I think it calls for a 20 once you know it won't burn the truck to the ground. Makes me wonder why the fuse was pulled................probably just out of Freon though. People do that.

01-19-2005, 12:20 PM	#13
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	BTW....notice in his pic all the fuse locations have the amperage rating of the fuses printed. His don't have it in the A/C slot because his truck didn't come with A/C. It should be on yours.

01-19-2005, 12:34 PM	#14
woody96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chapin, SC Posts: 392	thanks A Lot!!!

01-24-2005, 11:03 AM	#15
woody96 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Chapin, SC Posts: 392	Replace entire hinge maybe??? Would it be better to just replace the entire hinge? I have found some (which include the bushings, etc.) and they are $15 for the entire unit.....Would it be easier to mark the outline of the hinge on the truck, take off the old upper hinge, put on the new upper hinge, and hopefully everything will be good to go......

01-24-2005, 04:16 PM	#16
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	?? Mine has A/C stock but I have remove most of it in the engine bay. __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI



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