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Old 01-23-2005, 01:01 AM   #1
SanitysBane
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trailing arm

im thinking about grafting on the trailing arm supsension off of a 64 3/4 ton truck that we have, only problem is thats its 8 hours away. was wondering if anyone could take some pictures for me of how the trailing arms mount up the frame and how wide the fame is.
thanks
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:25 AM   #2
roj2323
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i have the frame crossmember that you will need if you would like.
http://www.maj.com/gallery/roj2323/parts/brackets2.jpg

as far as measurments i do beleive that the 83 frame and 64 frame should be fairly close in width.

from my factory ass. manual

the huge version http://www.maj.com/gallery/roj2323/r...e/img_1274.jpg


the huge version http://www.maj.com/gallery/roj2323/r...suspention.jpg
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:59 AM   #3
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who offers a trailing arm crossmember for lowered trucks?
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirMale
who offers a trailing arm crossmember for lowered trucks?
ECE does . . ....

Tired of dragging the center crossmember of your 1963-'72 GM truck? Early Classic's new Extreme Drop Center Crossmember has solved several clearance problems associated with 5" or more rear drops. Not only does our unit give your chassis 2.5" more ground clearance, it's raised center hoop design eliminates driveshaft interference on trucks with a slammed stance. This Assembly also provides exhaust passages to allow you to run 3" dual exhaust through the center of your chassis and out of harm's way. This black powder-coated beast has been engineered and fabricated from 1/4" thick Laser-cut and formed steel plate to be stronger and more functional than the factory unit it replaces.

As you have come to expect from Early Classic, this component's design also retains factory brake line, fuel line and parking brake cable passages, and is provided with all necessary Grade-8 hardware. (No cutting or welding required.)

(Note: Designed for use on short wheel-base, one-piece driveline pickups with 5" drop or more.)
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-23-2005, 04:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanitysBane
im thinking about grafting on the trailing arm supsension off of a 64 3/4 ton truck that we have, only problem is thats its 8 hours away. was wondering if anyone could take some pictures for me of how the trailing arms mount up the frame and how wide the fame is.
thanks
Although the frames are the same width @ the point where the trailing arm crossmember mounts, they are different @ the rear axle C/L. The pre-72 frames (both leaf & coil) curved outward, then back in, to accomodate the coils mounting position under the frame rail & directly above the trailing arm.

Post 72 frame rails are straight & would require some kind of reinforcement & bracketry to place the coils (or bags) in the right position on top of the trailing arms. This would be in addition to the factory coil reinforcement crossmember that comes w/the coil suspension.

Can it be done? Sure, w/some solid planning. IMO, a parallel 4-link would be easier on a 73 & later style frame (or a 2-link system utilizing the factory front leaf brackets . . .... ex: extensive metalworks/Houston). You'll also need to swap the trailing arm brackets from the 3/4 ton coil housing to your 1/2 ton leaf housing or, another idea is use a 1/2 ton coil spring housing because it will already have the trailing arm brackets & the correct stud for mounting the panhard bar.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-23-2005, 05:47 PM   #6
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shure it would be easier to put in a 4 link, and maybe make more sence, but i have no money and i can weld, so its trailing arms or nothing. me and dad were throwing ideas back and forth at each other, we came up with maybe just cutting off the frame on the 60what ever truck were the trailing arms bolt to the frame and cut the 83 frame on the same spot and just switch the back halves of the frames, any comments?
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:45 PM   #7
roj2323
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the frames are different in height and the joint would be a weak spot in the frame. your best bet is to just make some pearches for the coil springs.
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:55 PM   #8
wannabeburbowner
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SanitysBane,

I don't have any comments/ideas for you frame situation just wanted to say nice picture by your name. lol My dad has that tattoo on his arm, I am going to get it soon.
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Last edited by wannabeburbowner; 01-23-2005 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SanitysBane
.... shure it would be easier to put in a 4 link, and maybe make more sence, but i have no money and i can weld, so its trailing arms or nothing. me and dad were throwing ideas back and forth at each other, we came up with maybe just cutting off the frame on the 60what ever truck were the trailing arms bolt to the frame and cut the 83 frame on the same spot and just switch the back halves of the frames, any comments?
My 74 measured @ just over 6" @ the back of the cab & my spare 67-72 frame was just @ 6" (measuring from the outside of the frame rail). I would not just splice the two frame halves together but you could cut & overlap the earlier coil frame 'inside' of the slightly larger leaf frame. After welding you could box it all & it would prob be stronger than a stock frame because of the overlapping. You'll have to reposition the rear cab mounting brackets as they are located in different spots on the different year frames. That would take care of all the earlier mentioned frame flex issues & have all the proper bracketry for the suspension too!

Let us know how well it all works & take lots of pics. I wanted to do this w/my 74 (wedging the early frame within the later frame) but w/other projects pressing, it's not likely to happen. Take lots of measurements before cutting & mark those C/L's so it comes out right.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:21 PM   #10
SanitysBane
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well first thing that has to happen is getting my new short bed truck to play with, after that THEN i will get the early 60 3/4 ton truck from grandpa if he doesn't scrap it...need to call him and tell him to leave that truck alone.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:23 PM   #11
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hmm...that cross memeber looks tempting...how big of an exhaust can you run and how big of a drive shaft? i've got an aluminum one out of a 88 that is about 4 or 5 inches in diameter
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