i just want it to run!!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 01-25-2005, 02:49 PM

okay my battery is dead again. here is the deal:
the battery in my truck wasnt staying charged. we thought it could have been the battery just being crappy so we swapped it with my dads no name cheap battery. the truck ran and ran fine for a while.
then it died completly dead again. i saw that the battery cable where it connects to the termanal was cracked all the way through and didnt look so good. so i replaced the battery cable and had the alternator checked out. it was putting out about 99amps like it should be. it ran fine after that, i took it to go see dave too. then the next day it was really low and wouldnt start, then yesterday it was completely dead.

i dont know how it could have a short since i havent done anything electrical wise in so long.

could this battery be dead and not charging since i let it drain down so low before? i just want it to run and be fine.

do you think if i get a new battery it will still drain it down, even though i changed the bat. cable???

TIMSPEED · 01-25-2005, 02:57 PM

I can't offer any advice, but I can offer solis, I know that feeling. Finally got my truck to be reliable (like it should be!), and just knock on wood everday.
Don't you have an MSD Box? If you do, maybe your box is running your battery dead. A friend of mine, had a Mallory Box, and it was messing with his battery.

ocbaud · 01-25-2005, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TIMSPEED

I can't offer any advice, but I can offer solis, I know that feeling. Finally got my truck to be reliable (like it should be!), and just knock on wood everday.
Don't you have an MSD Box? If you do, maybe your box is running your battery dead. A friend of mine, had a Mallory Box, and it was messing with his battery.

right now it could be anything. but i have never had problems before

hotrodhomi · 01-25-2005, 03:22 PM

1. get a good battery 2. hook it up on the pos terminal. and connect a multimeter between the neg terminal and the the cable using the amp setting. The amps will spike for a few seconds powering up your stereo and such..then drop back down. if you have a draw on the system then the amps will still be high. 3. start removing fuses and checking the meter. When the current drops off, you found the cause. If you cant find it disconnect the alternator. They have been known to eat batteries if not 100%.

Prerunner1982 · 01-25-2005, 03:23 PM

do you ever notice your amp guage showing lower than usual? could be the internal regulator in the alt trying to go out..

thats what i had thought mine was until i rewired my tach...to a switched source and i havent had a problem in quite sometime.. except for one day when it was REALLY cold.

ocbaud · 01-25-2005, 03:39 PM

if i disconnect the alternator, the truck will die within 30 seconds.
and no john, while its running, its always at just about 13volts

as soon as i get back to okc i'll buy a multimeter and check all that out

Prerunner1982 · 01-25-2005, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocbaud

if i disconnect the alternator, the truck will die within 30 seconds.

its suppose to do that, he meant disconnect the alt while putting a test light/multimeter between battery and pos cable.. if it goes out or reads 0... the alt is drawing off the battery while its not running.

SCOTI · 01-25-2005, 04:01 PM

When you had the alternator checked, did they check the diodes?

The diodes are what convert the a/c current to d/c for the truck to use. If one or more (there's 3) of the diodes crap out it won't convert the current rendering it useless despite plenty of output. typically when they go, they also cause a small short that makes it worse.

ocbaud · 01-25-2005, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

When you had the alternator checked, did they check the diodes?

The diodes are what convert the a/c current to d/c for the truck to use. If one or more (there's 3) of the diodes crap out it won't convert the current rendering it useless despite plenty of output. typically when they go, they also cause a small short that makes it worse.

yeah, the tore it apart and checked everything. he said there were a couple loose bolts in there but that was it

hotrodhomi · 01-25-2005, 04:38 PM

do not start your truck with the meter in series with the battery unless you want to buy another one.

TIMSPEED · 01-25-2005, 05:28 PM

Eric,
Listen to these guys. That's what I did, and I found out that I had my Voltage Regulator connectors on backwards (12v+ switched and 12v+ constant were on the wrong terminals)
It makes it easier with 2 people, have one person hold the multimeter under the hood, then you pull a fuse and see if the current draw drops.

Lynx · 01-25-2005, 08:12 PM

You should never run your alternator with no load on it(ie Un plugged) it will fry your voltage regulator.

Destructo · 01-25-2005, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocbaud

if i disconnect the alternator, the truck will die within 30 seconds.
and no john, while its running, its always at just about 13volts

as soon as i get back to okc i'll buy a multimeter and check all that out

You should have 14 volts to charge the battery....

phantom dually · 01-25-2005, 09:19 PM

did you recently wire anything up?? Amp, radio, lights, electric choke???

magnethead · 01-25-2005, 11:10 PM

ammeter to the battery with the engine off. pull wires/fuses until the ammeter shows 0.

Check bettery ground.

ocbaud · 01-25-2005, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantom dually

did you recently wire anything up?? Amp, radio, lights, electric choke???

nope. the last thing i wired up was my alarm and that was months and months ago

Mike76251 · 01-26-2005, 08:19 AM

You can use a 12v light bulb in place of that Multimeter.......just connect it (vehicle uncranked) to your battery - post and the other lead of the light to - battery cable.
If any circuits are pulling juice the light will light.
Pull fuses until it don't.

01-25-2005, 02:49 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	i just want it to run!!!! okay my battery is dead again. here is the deal: the battery in my truck wasnt staying charged. we thought it could have been the battery just being crappy so we swapped it with my dads no name cheap battery. the truck ran and ran fine for a while. then it died completly dead again. i saw that the battery cable where it connects to the termanal was cracked all the way through and didnt look so good. so i replaced the battery cable and had the alternator checked out. it was putting out about 99amps like it should be. it ran fine after that, i took it to go see dave too. then the next day it was really low and wouldnt start, then yesterday it was completely dead. i dont know how it could have a short since i havent done anything electrical wise in so long. could this battery be dead and not charging since i let it drain down so low before? i just want it to run and be fine. do you think if i get a new battery it will still drain it down, even though i changed the bat. cable???

01-25-2005, 02:57 PM	#2
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	I can't offer any advice, but I can offer solis, I know that feeling. Finally got my truck to be reliable (like it should be!), and just knock on wood everday. Don't you have an MSD Box? If you do, maybe your box is running your battery dead. A friend of mine, had a Mallory Box, and it was messing with his battery. __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

01-25-2005, 04:01 PM	#8
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,938	When you had the alternator checked, did they check the diodes? The diodes are what convert the a/c current to d/c for the truck to use. If one or more (there's 3) of the diodes crap out it won't convert the current rendering it useless despite plenty of output. typically when they go, they also cause a small short that makes it worse. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-25-2005, 05:28 PM	#11
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Eric, Listen to these guys. That's what I did, and I found out that I had my Voltage Regulator connectors on backwards (12v+ switched and 12v+ constant were on the wrong terminals) It makes it easier with 2 people, have one person hold the multimeter under the hood, then you pull a fuse and see if the current draw drops. __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

01-25-2005, 08:12 PM	#12
Lynx Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta, Canada Posts: 513	You should never run your alternator with no load on it(ie Un plugged) it will fry your voltage regulator. __________________ Ben 1983 Silverado SWB 305 2002 Silverado Extended Cab 5.3 http://members.shaw.ca/bkennett

01-25-2005, 03:22 PM	#4
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	1. get a good battery 2. hook it up on the pos terminal. and connect a multimeter between the neg terminal and the the cable using the amp setting. The amps will spike for a few seconds powering up your stereo and such..then drop back down. if you have a draw on the system then the amps will still be high. 3. start removing fuses and checking the meter. When the current drops off, you found the cause. If you cant find it disconnect the alternator. They have been known to eat batteries if not 100%.

01-25-2005, 03:23 PM	#5
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,906	do you ever notice your amp guage showing lower than usual? could be the internal regulator in the alt trying to go out.. thats what i had thought mine was until i rewired my tach...to a switched source and i havent had a problem in quite sometime.. except for one day when it was REALLY cold.

01-25-2005, 03:39 PM	#6
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	if i disconnect the alternator, the truck will die within 30 seconds. and no john, while its running, its always at just about 13volts as soon as i get back to okc i'll buy a multimeter and check all that out

01-25-2005, 04:38 PM	#10
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	do not start your truck with the meter in series with the battery unless you want to buy another one.

01-25-2005, 09:19 PM	#14
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,793	did you recently wire anything up?? Amp, radio, lights, electric choke??? __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

01-25-2005, 11:10 PM	#15
magnethead 7000 #'s of american IRON Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: north tx Posts: 883	ammeter to the battery with the engine off. pull wires/fuses until the ammeter shows 0. Check bettery ground.

01-26-2005, 08:19 AM	#17
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,500	You can use a 12v light bulb in place of that Multimeter.......just connect it (vehicle uncranked) to your battery - post and the other lead of the light to - battery cable. If any circuits are pulling juice the light will light. Pull fuses until it don't.



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