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01-25-2005, 05:47 PM
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#1 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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panhard bar w/ bags help
Well, im almost ready to drive the ole panel again, but i have one dilemma... panhard bar. I mounted my bags about 8" further forward(measuring center of springs to center of bags) than the original coils on the trailing arms. What would be the best process to make sure its in the middle. Would i get an adjustable panhard bar, and get it centered, then just weld the panhard bar mount right then, or what. I have very little clearance in between my trailing arms and my frame, and i would like to do a wishbone setup, only i need more guidance and i am on a very tight budget. I will most likely only use about 6" of lift, although i get about 12 when i wanna play. So any advice, layouts, ideas on panhard bar mounts, panhard bars, where to get um, or wishbones, please let me know(im also staying up to date on the wishbone post). Thanks.
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01-25-2005, 06:23 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tri Valley California
Posts: 792
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You need to watts link or wishbone it. Is your bag located in the middle of the trailing arm.. meaning middle from crossmember to rearend. does that make sense.
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01-25-2005, 07:29 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: East Bethel, MN
Posts: 27
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You would want to set the panhard bar at level when the truck is at your ride height. Or you can set it at level in the middle of your stroke on the rearend. Personally I like to set it at ride height.
Nic www.crazytalkcustoms.com |
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01-25-2005, 07:53 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,939
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A panhard bar is not ideal for extreme amounts of suspension travel (ex: 12"). A Watts link or a wishbone would work better.
If you don't plan on anything extreme, set the panhard bar to a level position w/the vehicle sitting @ ride height. Try & run as long a bar as possible to limit side-to-side shift throughout suspension travel.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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01-26-2005, 02:52 AM
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#5 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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ok, im kinda leaning towards this, tell me what you guys think. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm it seems like it will work, and doesnt look to tough, just wondering what the center bolt goes to, maybe center of the diff cover, in which i could make a piece that bolts to the diff for more strength. Let me know what you think.
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01-28-2005, 05:35 AM
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#6 |
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BK Built
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oroville, WA
Posts: 478
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Ttt
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01-28-2005, 01:12 PM
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#7 |
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Head Peon
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Imlay City MI
Posts: 296
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I've checked out the speedway watts link kit before...just seems ghetto to me...the heim joints are most likely cheap and not sealed, which means they could possibly wear out quickly. I look at it from a design standpoint, any play (larger than needed bolt holes, no bearings) can cause unwanted side to side movement, which is what you are trying to eliminate. Take a look at this photo...you've done all the fab work so far, there should be no reason you shouldn't be able to make a setup such as this...
__________________
'72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4 |
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