Por15 & herculiner

[WRMZ71]

After hours searching last night as well as this morning i think i have come to grasp what exactly Por15 is. This seems like some really awesome stuff. My question is this though, I was originally planning on putting the spray on bedliner on the floor and firewall of my cab that i'm redoing. I know the Por-15's definitely going on the bottom of the cab but on the inside floor would putting the spray on liner over it be a waste of time? After this stuff I'm then getting some brownbread and then a carpet set. One other question. Does anybody have any pictures or can anyone tell me how far that carpet goes up the firewall underneath the dash? I can't hardly think that the carpet would go up there, but then again I think just the sound deadener on the firewall would look tacky. if anybody could answer any of this i would sure appreciate it.

Wrmz71

[Palf70Step]

You don't really want POR where direct sunlight will be on it. If the herculiner is anything like Rhino dealers, they are going to sand it off anyways before they spray in the bed liner. I would use POR on the underside of the bed, but if you want to coat the inside of the bed with something before the bed liner, I'd clean it up and shoot it with a good primer sealer.

[WRMZ71]

I'm talking about the inside of the cab. I was going to put the herculiner/spray bedliner on the floor over the por15. My question is, is this just waisting my time putting doing this. I want that cab to be about as quiet as possible as i'm looking to make this just a really clean, efficient daily driver. On top of the por15 and herculiner will then go a layer of brownbread sound deadener and then carpet on top of that. The por 15 and herculiner aren't for looks but merely a preventative measure against rust EVER forming again and extra sound deadening ability.

[Longhorn Man]

I highly advise the POR base. Then scuff it with some 180 sand paper and cover with some sound deadener. The rino or any other lining would be redundant over the POR, you don't really need to protect it from anything but sunlight. The sound deadener however would help with your quest for a quiet cab.

[Palf70Step]

OK I misread. Yeah what longhorn said would be your best bet. No need for both. POR it, then use brown bread or something similar for sound deadening.

[Gee_Emm]

Also you should get the metal ready stuff that Por15 sells. It will give a proper surface for the por-15 to stick to.

Sunlight will only discolor por-15, it has nothing more then a cosmetic effect on it.

[Fred T]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I highly advise the POR base. Then scuff it with some 180 sand paper.

I agree. Not much of anything will stick to the POR-15. If you're going to scuff it, I would put 3 coats on first. Another option is to use their tie-coat primer.
http://www.brysondist.com/POR15/TieCoat.html

Whatever you do, follow the instructions to the letter. The only reasons that I have known of where POR-15 didn't work right was when the surfaces weren't properly prepared. Biggest mistake is using a wire brush, which does not rough up the metal surface.

If you don't have a local distributor, Bryson (at the link) knows the product and has even helped out when I screwed up. He is near Houston, and comes to the big swap meet in Wichita every February.

[Don R. Dodson]

If you are going to put a coat of anything over POR15, you can use the Tie-Coat Primer put out by the POR15 people for just that reason. If you want to use some sort of paint over the POR15, you can do so while the POR15 is still tacky, and it will adhere to the POR15. If POR15 is dry, you will need to use the Tie-Coat Primer. Cost is $20.00 a quart and $50.00 a gallon.

[WRMZ71]

Alright all thanks for the replies. I was thinking it would be awful redundant to put the herculiner on over the Por15. I looked on www.prp-porstor.com and found a kit for 68 bucks that has the marine clean,the metal prep stuff, the actual por15, and then the paint stuff that goes over it. They said this would all be enough to do 50 Sq. feet. I'm guessing i will need 2 of these for the inside of the cab flor and the bottom. what do y'all think?

[Gee_Emm]

I wouldnt bother with the Marine clean, I have bought some and found it to be a waste of money. There are alot better degreasers out there for a fraction of the price. You will be better off getting a large size of the metal prep, it goes fast. Por15 doesnt go on like regular paint, I would compare it to wood stain, alot will go along way. I would recommend applying two coats to the areas of the cab floor that usually see the most rust and 2 coats for the bottom. I have found that if you just apply one coat you still can have rust form in extreme applications. You will also NEED a respirator when you are working with it a few disposable brushes and a box of rubber gloves, it is a good idea to double bag too if you are using latex gloves.

[4x4Poet]

Originally Posted by Gee_Emm

I wouldnt bother with the Marine clean, I have bought some and found it to be a waste of money. There are alot better degreasers out there for a fraction of the price. You will be better off getting a large size of the metal prep, it goes fast. Por15 doesnt go on like regular paint, I would compare it to wood stain, alot will go along way. I would recommend applying two coats to the areas of the cab floor that usually see the most rust and 2 coats for the bottom. I have found that if you just apply one coat you still can have rust form in extreme applications. You will also NEED a respirator when you are working with it a few disposable brushes and a box of rubber gloves, it is a good idea to double bag too if you are using latex gloves.

Great advice but for one: Other degreasers may clean better than Marine Clean (I believe you), but some leave a soapy residue. Marine Clean leaves no residue that would interfere with POR15's adhesion, given a proper followup with zinc phosphate (Metal Ready). The zinc phosphate application reduces the acidic ph levels left by the Marine Clean and also converts the surface rust to white powder. I expect Marine Clean is also a readily available chemical, but I haven't found out yet.

One important thing, when you apply the zinc phosphate (kept wet for 20 mins), don't spray it off with force. Use the cone spray of a nozzle and just hit it enough to make it run off some. If you hit it hard and/or long, you'll knock off the zinc phosphate to the extent that it won't be there anymore to do the rust conversion as it dries along with the water. Learned this one the hard way. A POR15 rep helped me out on that one. If you do it right, you'll see white powder everywhere. Apply POR15 right over it. Don't be skeered.

Originally Posted by WRMZ71

...I was thinking it would be awful redundant to put the herculiner on over the Por15....

Tough call. Definitely put POR15 on first, regardless, since it sticks to rust better than Herculiner. Adding the Herculiner would provide more sound deadening and protection from moisture penetration but might interfere some with future patch panel replacement, say after a minor accident. Just having the POR15 would ease body work. The Herculiner would probably be better for under the cab and hump since dirt and grease would spray off it better than just POR15. The Herculiner could handle flying rocks and high pressure water spray better, too.

One idea I heard was to affix any sound deadener to the rubber mat or carpet. Adhesive up. Then, with the mat/carpet's removal, the floor metal could be cleaned underneath and no water pockets would exist under any sound deadener applied directly to the floor. Of course, each time you replaced the mat/carpet, you'd have to replace the sound deadener. Just some ideas.

IIRC, the Herculiner is a urethane like POR15, so they will stick to each other, though the POR15 needs to be tacky like Mr. Dodson said. Paint needs the tiecoat primer, but urethane bedliners in a can may not. I'm sure most POR15 reps would know since they get this compatiblity question all the time. I found a friendly rep at the 1-800# for The Finished Look.com.

[vtblazer]

You stated all this effort is for rust prevention, so I thought I'd ask about the INSIDE of the rockers, what are your plans for them? Find some way to rust proof that area and you'll be all set.
Paying attention to the inside of the rockers now will save on repairs later.

[Gee_Emm]

Never thought about the degreaser residue, I figured that if the metal ready is strong enough to eat through the skin on my fingers it would take care of any other stuff. I don't use any degreasers unless the piece I am working on is covered in grease. I sand blast the metal then follow up with metal ready. I learnt the hard way that if you skip the metal ready step the por15 doesnt always work out.

[lngbed71]

From what I gather, the marine clean and metal prep are for new metal, not old. If you are concerned about adhesion, use a weak TSP solution as a quick clean, then POR 15. Worked great, no problem with coverage.

[saxmo]

has anyone used the magnetpaints product "chassis saver"? I have a friend who did the inner fenders and frame of his 81 camaro with it, and it appears to be good stuff, but don't know.