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12-15-2003, 04:50 AM | #26 |
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Hmm, seems fairly simple... I'll keep my eye out for some new power window motors...
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
12-15-2003, 03:48 PM | #27 |
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
12-15-2003, 09:40 PM | #28 | |
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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12-16-2003, 01:53 AM | #29 | |
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AR
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"The Beast" 1975 Chevrolet C20 longbed 350/700R4! with 3inch body lift Dual Flowmasters Super 40's! TBI retrofit completed (2007-07-29) New 383CID (+030) 08-304-8 9.5:1CR x36,005 (2012-12-17) |
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12-16-2003, 02:42 AM | #30 |
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rfmaster, I think I'm with you on it so far. I can imagine where you ran in to problems, and like you said, another pair of hands may have helped things go smoother.
Captkaos mentions the difference in the 73-76 doors pertaining to the #3-4 bolts showing. What is the difference in the 73-76 doors, and the later ones? It's late, or I would go compare mine to your pics. In your case, couldn't you run carriage bolts from the outside, and paint the heads black? On mine, I plan to add the Silverado carpeted panels below my door panel anyway. With a carriage bolt running through to the inside, the carpet would cover the head. Will this work, or am I missing something???? |
12-16-2003, 11:17 AM | #31 |
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77's have the holes you need Ken.
73-76 77-91
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
12-16-2003, 11:29 AM | #32 |
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Thanks Chris. I never realized there was that much difference in the 73-76 inner door skins.
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12-16-2003, 12:06 PM | #33 |
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FWIW, the later vent windows will fit the early doors. I put 87 model vents in my 73 doors this weekend. The newer inner door handles and door locks bolt in too. Which holes are different for the power window install?
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1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241 |
12-16-2003, 12:11 PM | #34 | |
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12-17-2003, 02:29 AM | #35 |
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This is what this whole board is about. Finding what can be done with old (but good) iron.
I can not use carriage bolts from outside, new kit sold by A1 uses studs to mount assembly. BTW, motors are made in Italy! It looks like, based on pic provided, 73-76 will have exposed nuts/studs at holes #3 &4. It is not an issue for me. A little bit of paint will do the trick. My truck is not a Lexus, so having couple of nuts out of place will not break my heart. Captkaos, thank for posting side by side pics of the 73-76 and 77 up doors.
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"The Beast" 1975 Chevrolet C20 longbed 350/700R4! with 3inch body lift Dual Flowmasters Super 40's! TBI retrofit completed (2007-07-29) New 383CID (+030) 08-304-8 9.5:1CR x36,005 (2012-12-17) |
12-17-2003, 02:43 AM | #36 |
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You're welcome.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
01-16-2004, 01:17 AM | #37 |
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Any updates?
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01-16-2004, 12:09 PM | #38 |
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dumb question, would installing a factory set of power windows to a non power truck be as much of a pain? assuming I have the correct harness etc...
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Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually |
01-16-2004, 01:56 PM | #39 |
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From the looks of the pics, if you were to put a set of 77-up door panels on, it would cover up the bolt holes. This would probably also help mount the switches as well, as I don't think there is a good place to mount them on the cheaper model door panels. The Silverado/Chevenne door panels were flat, but the custom/Scottsdale panels had a raised ridge around the window crank. I used a set of 81-up door panels on my 73 doors, and just used a self tapping screw at the bottom. The door panels and attachments worked just fine.
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1974 Jimmy- 5.3/4L80e/NP241 |
01-16-2004, 06:34 PM | #40 | |
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Using the factory stuff should be the "easiest" way to get the job done. From what I have researched on the subject it may not be the "best" way though. It seems that the downfall of using OEM parts are the GM motors. From what I have seen, read, and been told they suck when they are new, and get worse from there. The motors that come with these kits are supposed to be much better/faster/stronger and cheaper than GM motors. This seems to be the kit of choice for the 67-72 guys. You have to factor in cost as well. The A-1 Electric kit sells for $239.95. I have seen all the used ones for sale on Ebay, but haven't paid attention to the actual selling price. My guess is after you buy a used set from Ebay, or wherever, then put new motors on you aren't too far away from the A-1 kit. I do plan to use the factory harness, boots, and OEM "style" switches. I also plan to mount them in the stock location on the door panel... Last edited by N2TRUX; 01-16-2004 at 06:37 PM. |
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01-16-2004, 06:39 PM | #41 | |
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Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually |
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01-16-2004, 07:58 PM | #42 |
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Heck yeah! If you got it use it. Neither one of my trucks have power windows or locks. I plan to install both, and want to do it just once. If I had access to a deal on OEM parts then I would consider that route. Since I have to start from scratch no matter what I want everything new...
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02-05-2005, 05:29 PM | #43 | |
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02-05-2005, 10:49 PM | #44 |
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ALL 77+ door panels stick out to far to be used with 73-76 manual stalks as you have found.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
02-05-2005, 11:10 PM | #45 | |
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