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76bonanza · 02-14-2005, 11:43 PM

Can some one give me a walk thru or step by step on changing your centerlink(draglink) on a 76 chevy k10. Is it something I can do on my own?

Thanks for any help you can provide!!

**kwmech** · 02-15-2005, 12:37 AM

You changing the entire thing or just an end? Anyways, pull cotter pins, unscrew castle nuts. With a ballpeen hammer hit the side of the arms to release the tapers. Put new one on and tighten up. New assy set to approx same length as old one. Turn collar until steer wheel is centered and tighten up lock screws. Pretty basic stuff. No alignment need on a draglink. With a tie rod, toe in needs to be set.

**JIMs70GMC** · 02-15-2005, 08:00 AM

To add, if you have to you can rent "pickle forks" to remove the tie rod ends. I t does destroy them though.

76bonanza · 02-15-2005, 08:13 AM

ya whole asembly

76bonanza · 02-15-2005, 05:23 PM

Are there any torque specs on the adjusting sleeve or the castle bolts or just as tight as I can get them with out using air?

02-14-2005, 11:43 PM	#1
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	center link Can some one give me a walk thru or step by step on changing your centerlink(draglink) on a 76 chevy k10. Is it something I can do on my own? Thanks for any help you can provide!! __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

02-15-2005, 08:00 AM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	To add, if you have to you can rent "pickle forks" to remove the tie rod ends. I t does destroy them though. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

02-15-2005, 08:13 AM	#4
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	ya whole asembly __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

02-15-2005, 05:23 PM	#5
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	Are there any torque specs on the adjusting sleeve or the castle bolts or just as tight as I can get them with out using air? __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

02-15-2005, 12:37 AM	#2
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,464	You changing the entire thing or just an end? Anyways, pull cotter pins, unscrew castle nuts. With a ballpeen hammer hit the side of the arms to release the tapers. Put new one on and tighten up. New assy set to approx same length as old one. Turn collar until steer wheel is centered and tighten up lock screws. Pretty basic stuff. No alignment need on a draglink. With a tie rod, toe in needs to be set.



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