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01-17-2005, 12:49 AM | #1 |
Don't say "Oops!", Doctor
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 677
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Cold mornings and missing cylinders
Hey guys, let me get some opinions here. It seems that since the weather has turned cold, I've got a problem with missing cylinders. When I fire it up in the morning, at least two don't sound/feel like they're firing right. Gradually, things smooth out and she'll fire on all eight, but it's not a friendly way to start the day.
I've pulled and gapped all my plugs correctly for an HEI. My wires aren't crossed or otherwise damaged (put these on about 6 months ago). I just can't think of any good reason why this would be happening. It gets stranger, too. Once the truck's up to full operating temperature, I get a shrill whistle coming from under the hood when I let up on the gas. As long as the engine's under a load, there's no whistle. If I let up, the whistle comes on strong and I can change the pitch of the whistle depending on the position of the throttle. All this tells me is that there's a vac leak. The whistle doesn't stay, though. After a bit, it goes away and everything is fine. The whole scenario goes like this: - Start it up after sitting for several hours in cold, cold weather and listen to 6 cylinders do the work of 8. - After about 90 seconds, all cylinders are firing. - Start driving after about 90 more seconds. - Choke remains on for about a mile then the idle kicks down to normal. - Drive for about 10 miles at highway speed and the whistle starts. - Drive for 4-5 miles more at highway speed and the whistle goes away. - Every now and again, the truck insists on idling at around 2000 rpm when out of gear and it takes an act of congress to kick it down to normal again. This is a 350 with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Edelbrock 1406 carb with electric choke. There's a 2-inch phenolic spacer between the carb and the intake. Anybody have an idea what the heck is going on?
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'Mutt 1968 CST LWB: R.I.P. 1967 Chevelle: TPI 454 beast 1967 C10 SWB: Claimed when Bumpster didn't put it on his list |
01-17-2005, 01:10 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: CANADA
Posts: 1,681
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check the cap and rotor.look for vaccum leaks.spray wd-40 on the vaccum lines one line at a time with the truck running.when the truck idles smooth that is the vaccum line that is bad.also check the carb mounting gaskets for vaccum leaks the same way.Do not forget the transsmision modulator vavle conction at the back of the trnas for vaccum leaks too.
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02-15-2005, 09:24 PM | #3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 1,411
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Not sure if you have one of these, but check the manifold vacuum 'tree' or 'block' thats right behind the carb. If you have blocked off any of them or if you have rubber vac lines going to it, sometimes the rubber cracks and plays all kind of weird games with your engine.
Just another area to look at. 72longbed |
02-15-2005, 11:36 PM | #4 |
blood type; Retumbo
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: next to my reloading bench
Posts: 10,269
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like I said before, drive the BMW. JK
it sounds like a vacuum leak either above or below the phenolic spacer. loose the spacer & use just one thick gasket I know for a fact it cant be ignition related. do you have power brakes? I dont remember. the booster could be bad.
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Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card |
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