broken manifold bolts, now what? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sactoC10 · 08-23-2004, 11:51 PM

Do I need to go to a machine shop to have these rusted-in, broken, old bolts removed from these driver side manifolds? What would you do?

Fred T · 08-24-2004, 12:01 AM

I usually end up cutting them off flush and drilling them out. Then retapping the holes.

The one that's still in one piece stands a good chance at removal. I heat the flange up to a dull red and put a pair of vise-grips on as close to the flange as possible. Should come out.

walker · 08-24-2004, 12:03 AM

Nah, just center punch them and start drilling with an 1/8" bit get bigger until you can get an ez out in there. Left handed drill bits work wonders, as well as kroil/pb blaster/ et al. As you drillthe hole gives the bolt somewhere to go as it is turning past the rust and it gets easier the bigger the hole. If it still doesn't come out and you start to see threads, because your hole is too big just try retapping it. Or you can use the weld a nut to it method, which is somewhat self explanitory.

chickenwing · 08-24-2004, 01:09 AM

Jeff, looks like there is a tad bit of stud pokin out on the 2 short ones? I did the same exact thing. Took it down to my buddies shop and put the acetylen torch to it. Heated it a bit more than a dull red. They all came out. I did not want to try and drill it out, cause time before that I screwed up and drilled the hole off center. Easy out just wouldn't work. Ended up drilling it all the way out and tapping it. Then had to elongate a bolt hole on the headpipe flange to make it fit.

**GMCPaul** · 08-24-2004, 02:51 AM

I used to use a left hand drill bit to remove them and when that didn't work I would use a eze-out, but since I found out my local machine shop would remove and replace all 3 broken or unbroken studs for $5 a manifold I quit fighting them and let them do the work.
GMCPaul

JimKshortstep4x4 · 08-24-2004, 06:26 AM

GMC Paul,

That is a good deal on removing studs!

Jim

mrein3 · 08-24-2004, 07:30 AM

I drill a hole for an easy out. DON'T put the easy out in yet.
Heat up the MANIFOLD with a torch until it is read. Propane will work but it takes longer.
With the manifold red whack in your easy out and turn the broken stud out.

If you heat it with the easy out in there you'll wreck your easy out and likely make a bigger mess by breaking the easy out off in the stud.

If I had a machine shop close by that would do it for $5/manifold I'd go there too.

64fleetside · 08-24-2004, 07:49 AM

If you have access to acetylene torch, you can melt the studs right out of the manifolds, cast iron melts at a much higher temp than steel studs. Concentrate the heat on the stud, apply a little oxygen-drip right out. If you're good you won't even need to retap the threads. Brian

68C15 · 08-24-2004, 07:55 AM

Headers!!!

Fred T · 08-24-2004, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

If you have access to acetylene torch, you can melt the studs right out of the manifolds, cast iron melts at a much higher temp than steel studs. Concentrate the heat on the stud, apply a little oxygen-drip right out. If you're good you won't even need to retap the threads. Brian

That's what my friend did when he was turning wrenches. And while the iron was still red hot, he would run in a new stud. Learned the trick from an old head back in the sixties.

For $5 a manifold, I would gladly let someone else do them.

chickenwing · 08-24-2004, 10:21 AM

I wish I had that kind of machine shop here!!

sactoC10 · 08-24-2004, 10:23 AM

OK, good input, all of it.

I do have a good machine shop less than 5 minutes away, so I think I'll at least get an estimate from them first.

If that option is not as good or similar to GMCPaul's, then I think I'll try one of the torching methods.

Thanks... good to have the digicamera up and running. Made this question EASY to ask!

full foot notch · 01-07-2005, 07:25 PM

sorry to bring an old thread back, but im in the same boat as yall, BB headers that all have crappy studs on them, but dont wanna F the manifolds up

Blue Beard · 01-07-2005, 08:33 PM

Just did a dozen of these last summer with a torch. Cost more for the new studs....

Finding a good deal at a machine shop would be easier...

bigvinnie · 01-07-2005, 10:07 PM

I believe I paid $20 to have 2 studs removed a few years back, $5 is a helluva bargain...

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 01-07-2005, 11:21 PM

I use a propane torch and a pair of vise grips to get 'em out, but before that I soak 'em in penetrating oil. It's never failed yet. This works for studs that were rusted beyond re-threading or broken off just enough that I could get the vise grips on. I never had any with studs broken off flush to the flange of the manifold.

4x4Poet · 01-08-2005, 05:40 AM

When I removed the Rams Horns from my K10 last month, I used penetrating oil and a Powerhouse stud remover. I pulled 5 out of 6 myself. I had to have the machine shop pull the last one because on that one I didn't follow the first rule when using that stud remover: Keep the tool at the base of the stud before turning.

I used the same remover a year ago to pull a broken head bolt out of one of my TravelAll's 392 heads. Worked great. No doubt the heating idea would help on any removed manifold. And the stud remover requires a half inch or so of the stud protruding to grab on. Won't work with near flush-to-surface breaks.

I hear the ladies like it too.

lux hauler · 02-20-2005, 12:06 AM

if there is enough of the stud sticking out, even if it's just a thread or two, start a nut on it and weld the nut to the stud from the center. use the nut to back the stud out.
Speaking of exhaust manifolds.....anyone know anything about the new rams horns that they're making now?

08-23-2004, 11:51 PM	#1
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,055	broken manifold bolts, now what? Do I need to go to a machine shop to have these rusted-in, broken, old bolts removed from these driver side manifolds? What would you do? Attached Images __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

08-24-2004, 12:01 AM	#2
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	I usually end up cutting them off flush and drilling them out. Then retapping the holes. The one that's still in one piece stands a good chance at removal. I heat the flange up to a dull red and put a pair of vise-grips on as close to the flange as possible. Should come out. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

08-24-2004, 12:03 AM	#3
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	Nah, just center punch them and start drilling with an 1/8" bit get bigger until you can get an ez out in there. Left handed drill bits work wonders, as well as kroil/pb blaster/ et al. As you drillthe hole gives the bolt somewhere to go as it is turning past the rust and it gets easier the bigger the hole. If it still doesn't come out and you start to see threads, because your hole is too big just try retapping it. Or you can use the weld a nut to it method, which is somewhat self explanitory. __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

08-24-2004, 01:09 AM	#4
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	Jeff, looks like there is a tad bit of stud pokin out on the 2 short ones? I did the same exact thing. Took it down to my buddies shop and put the acetylen torch to it. Heated it a bit more than a dull red. They all came out. I did not want to try and drill it out, cause time before that I screwed up and drilled the hole off center. Easy out just wouldn't work. Ended up drilling it all the way out and tapping it. Then had to elongate a bolt hole on the headpipe flange to make it fit. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

08-24-2004, 02:51 AM	#5
GMCPaul Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Rockville,In. USA Posts: 3,721	I used to use a left hand drill bit to remove them and when that didn't work I would use a eze-out, but since I found out my local machine shop would remove and replace all 3 broken or unbroken studs for $5 a manifold I quit fighting them and let them do the work. GMCPaul __________________ Secure Online Catalog for-GMCPauls Truck Parts Email- GMCPAULS@GMAIL.COM

08-24-2004, 06:26 AM	#6
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	GMC Paul, That is a good deal on removing studs! Jim

08-24-2004, 07:30 AM	#7
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,254	I drill a hole for an easy out. DON'T put the easy out in yet. Heat up the MANIFOLD with a torch until it is read. Propane will work but it takes longer. With the manifold red whack in your easy out and turn the broken stud out. If you heat it with the easy out in there you'll wreck your easy out and likely make a bigger mess by breaking the easy out off in the stud. If I had a machine shop close by that would do it for $5/manifold I'd go there too. __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

08-24-2004, 07:49 AM	#8
64fleetside Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: arkieland Posts: 1,070	If you have access to acetylene torch, you can melt the studs right out of the manifolds, cast iron melts at a much higher temp than steel studs. Concentrate the heat on the stud, apply a little oxygen-drip right out. If you're good you won't even need to retap the threads. Brian

08-24-2004, 07:55 AM	#9
68C15 blood type; Retumbo Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: next to my reloading bench Posts: 10,269	Headers!!! __________________ Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card

08-24-2004, 10:21 AM	#11
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	I wish I had that kind of machine shop here!! __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

08-24-2004, 10:23 AM	#12
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,055	OK, good input, all of it. I do have a good machine shop less than 5 minutes away, so I think I'll at least get an estimate from them first. If that option is not as good or similar to GMCPaul's, then I think I'll try one of the torching methods. Thanks... good to have the digicamera up and running. Made this question EASY to ask! __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

01-07-2005, 07:25 PM	#13
full foot notch Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Central florida Posts: 3,223	sorry to bring an old thread back, but im in the same boat as yall, BB headers that all have crappy studs on them, but dont wanna F the manifolds up

01-07-2005, 08:33 PM	#14
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,831	Just did a dozen of these last summer with a torch. Cost more for the new studs.... Finding a good deal at a machine shop would be easier... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

01-07-2005, 10:07 PM	#15
bigvinnie Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: escondido, ca 92026 Posts: 1,222	I believe I paid $20 to have 2 studs removed a few years back, $5 is a helluva bargain... __________________ '72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project

01-07-2005, 11:21 PM	#16
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	I use a propane torch and a pair of vise grips to get 'em out, but before that I soak 'em in penetrating oil. It's never failed yet. This works for studs that were rusted beyond re-threading or broken off just enough that I could get the vise grips on. I never had any with studs broken off flush to the flange of the manifold. __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck Last edited by Robert1970C20rstbukt; 01-07-2005 at 11:23 PM.



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01-08-2005, 05:40 AM	#17
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	When I removed the Rams Horns from my K10 last month, I used penetrating oil and a Powerhouse stud remover. I pulled 5 out of 6 myself. I had to have the machine shop pull the last one because on that one I didn't follow the first rule when using that stud remover: Keep the tool at the base of the stud before turning. I used the same remover a year ago to pull a broken head bolt out of one of my TravelAll's 392 heads. Worked great. No doubt the heating idea would help on any removed manifold. And the stud remover requires a half inch or so of the stud protruding to grab on. Won't work with near flush-to-surface breaks. I hear the ladies like it too. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

02-20-2005, 12:06 AM	#18
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	if there is enough of the stud sticking out, even if it's just a thread or two, start a nut on it and weld the nut to the stud from the center. use the nut to back the stud out. Speaking of exhaust manifolds.....anyone know anything about the new rams horns that they're making now? __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).

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