Steering Column Problems

[67chops]

I am not sure if this is the right place to post this but here goes nothing. Recently shifting gears on my column, automatic, has become a real problem. Sometimes it gets stuck in R or D, other times it wont let me put in in L1 or L2 unless I shift directly into it from P. Also my left turn signal will not disengage after completing turns. No problems with the right though. Anyone know what the problem could be or the amount of work it would take to fix these problems. Thanks for anything.

[jhow66]

Take some WD40 and spray the lever (under hood) where it comes out of the steering column. Turn signal cancel on that side is broke. To fix you have to remove the steering wheel.

[COBALT]

I literally just went through a similar problem with my auto column. I've taken it apart a few times to fix problems like the turn signal switch getting broke, a worn out bearing, etc...

The last go-around the shifter was getting stiffer and stiffer. I'd try to shift out of park into Drive or Reverse and it was super stiff. I'd have to put a lot of leverage to get it to go. Similarly going back to P.

When my brakes failed I had to pop from D into N while going 50 in busy traffic. After getting stopped I had a hard time getting it back into P. When the brake shop had their way with it for a few days when I got it back the shifter was completely locked up - with the shop guys saying things like "dude! Your shifter sucks!"....no Sh!t wiseguys.

So..I took it apart again. here's what I found out:

1. The top of the column is broken up into three specific areas:

a. The steering wheel with the horn button, and the assembly under the button.
b. The turn signal housing that holds the turn signal switch and the metal base that holds the turn signal switch inside the housing and the upper bearing. This metal base has curved slots in the back that is keyed to the top of the column. The turn signal housing is also keyed with cut-outs around the hole in the center that slips over bumps on the column so it sits flush against the shift housing.
c. The shift housing holds the shift lever handle in place and provides the pocket welded to the shift sleeve that the handle can actuate.

2. The turn signal switch is one of the easiest things in the world to replace. Basically it's a plastic piece that partly actuates based on the turn signal switch handle, allows the actuation of the hazard button, and sits in its own housing on top of a keyed metal base. A metal spring loaded clip snaps into position whenever you move the handle.

The turn signal cancel mechanism (turning the turn signal off when the steering wheel turns) is based on a canceling cam that rides on top of the steering wheel bearing, which is a round white housing that has 4 bumps on the body of the housing, a lip with a metal contact, and a spring loaded pin for the horn button, and two springs mounted on the turn signal switch that contact these bumps. These springs in the switch break all the time. Any auto parts store worth their salt will have these packaged up in the accessories area of the store where all the extra door handles, lock buttons, and other interior parts are. The turn signal switch you can either order through the auto parts store, or get them from an aftermarket dealer.

3. The gear shift lever is held in the shift housing by a pin driven into the housing and through the near-end of the handle. The end of the handle is round like a ball point pen (except it doesn't move), and sits in a pocket welded on the shift sleeve that rides the steering shaft. This sleeve is responsible for actuating the linkage at the bottom of the column (it rides on a spring). If this sleeve doesn't slide back and forth freely your gear shifting abilities will go down the toilet. Furthermore if the handle isn't working properly - same story.

My problem turned out to be the pin that held the handle in place. It turns out the way I had driven it in last time wasn't letting the handle rotate on the pin. It's supposed to act as a point of rotation so the handle can pull the shift sleeve back and forth. If it gets hung up and won't turn it won't actuate the sleeve. I got the pin out, figured out what orientation would allow smooth operation, and drove it in so it would turn, and lubed the sleeve with some wheel bearing grease. Problem fixed.

Chances are one of the things I described above is part of your problem. Otherwise it's the spring and linkage at the other end of the column. If that's the case then you may have to disassemble the entire column, but chances are if it worked great earlier it's probably something simple.

[dyingdeadman]

mine got stuck, and i just hit it with some wd40 and it fixed it.shifts like new now.

[COBALT]

There's no way WD-40 would have fixed my problem. Another thing is keeping the column from eating itself up. WD-40 will work but it's a temporary fix IMO. Nothing works like grease, which means you have to take the column apart to get a grease needle or your finger in there to lube up the shift tube.

[guyryan100]

I've always been told this:
WD40 is a de-greaser. It is not a lubricant. It removes the lubricant (this is often a good thing when you have grease+gunk buildup on a moving part.) After applying WD40, always follow up with the proper lubricant or the part will wear.

Hope this helps.

[67chops]

thanks for all the info. i figure the best way to find out my problem is to get my hands dirty and get in there. another question before i get in there, do i need a steering wheel puller or can i get it off without one? i wont get a chance to get to this until thursday so ill get back with some progress later this week.

[COBALT]

Trust me. Go to Checkers/Schucks/NAPA/Whoever, and get a cheap GM steering wheel puller. It's worth its weight in gold times two. Two long bolts thread into the steering wheel, and a yoke goes in between them with the center bolt that threads in the middle. I literally have this one:

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3497

I picked it up as an afterthought one time, and use the CRAP out of it.

[guyryan100]

Autozone will loan you a puller for free. You will have a tough time getting the wheel off without one.

[Jimbotronics]

Just be carefull when using the steering wheel puller, you should have something in between the puller bolt and the steering shaft or you'll mess up the threads on the steering shaft. I went to change the turn signal cam on mine and noticed that the PO had not used a spacer, messed up the steering shaft and stripped the nut out badly forcing it back on. Had to Retap the column threads and replace the nut.

[COBALT]

The wheel puller I showed you uses a pointed centerbolt, but it has a spacer with it. It's $8. I would just buy it. Probably cost you more to drive to Autozone and back then to just have it around the garage for the next time you have to pull the wheel.

I've pulled my steering wheel on 3 separate ocasions. I'm going to have to pull it again to re-align it. I have it too far to the right, and it's not centered after I did my repair work. That's why I'm glad I have it in my toolbox.

[67chops]

got in to check out the turn signal problem today. looks like i am just missing the spring that returns the left turn signal. hopefully i can pick the spring up somewhere locally. ran out of daylight to take a look at my shifter issues. maybe ill takea look at it tommorow. also wondering if there is anywhere that sells the fiberoptic cable for the shift indicator light? will post with some more results later.