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02-27-2005, 11:41 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gainesville, Fl
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lift shackles on front?
Are lift shackles on the front of my K-1o alright? I ask this because I have a pair that were on the rear of a 4x4 that I can use on my truck. Are they safe to put on the front of the truck? I know blocks arent safe but can not afford lift springs. shackles or no?
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02-27-2005, 11:50 PM | #2 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
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Short answer........ NO! I'll let others fill in the science and experience, but my gut says it'll be God-awful treacherous.
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
02-28-2005, 01:40 AM | #3 |
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Ttt
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02-28-2005, 01:42 AM | #4 |
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Exactly what length over stock are these shackles? Same dimensions as oem (excepting the length) otherwise? Also, do you have 2 or 3-leaf springs up front and how much do they sag. IOW, are they the original springs?
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
02-28-2005, 09:48 PM | #5 |
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the shackles are multi-height ranging from 4"-6" I would be considering using 6" or which ever is safest. They were sold as adjustable lift shackles is what the box said, they are 2 pieces of 1/4" steel with 3 height adjustment holes (4"-5"-6")
The leafs on the truck now are the stock original 3-leaf and they sag a little but not bad.
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Man I need another 67-72!!! |
03-01-2005, 12:17 AM | #6 |
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I say don't do it. It will throw your pinion angle out thewrong direction. I just bought a new Tuff Country Lift for my 71 Blazer from 4wheelcustoms for $238.00 delivered to my door! Don't cheap out, save your money and do it right. By the way stock shackles are 4" center to center and you are only going to get 1/2 of what you add, 6" will only give you 1 inch of lift. My 2 cents worth.
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03-01-2005, 05:04 AM | #7 |
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OK. Your question should not have been can you install longer shackles on the rear of the front springs, it should have been can you install cheap@$$ shackles on the front springs. You can, but those adjustible shackles will never make a tight swivel between the frame & springeye. They will sway from side to side everytime the wheels are turned at speed. Very dangerous.
I could be wrong, so you could install them with this in mind. No adverse handling, maybe they're ok. But, as mentioned, you will grossly affect caster which will likely require corrective shims between the springs and the spring perch. Shims require special center bolts with taller heads so that their heads fully reach into the spring perch hole. Inadequate center bolt engagement can potentially make it easier for a tire impact to push the front axle back along the springs, dragging the u-bolts with it. Super dangerous. Most spring shops have tall-head center bolts. Another option is to relocate the upper shackle mount within the frame. It gets more complicated from there. If you want safe extended shackles on the front, go with ORD heavy duty shackles. Talk to ORD. They say the caster change is tolerable. But l'm about to install ORD's shackles on my K10, so I'll tell you the best way to do this. I hate shims anywhere. I need new springs and ORD's shackles will affect caster,so I am having custom, 1" lift springs made by Alcan Spring. The lift is not important. What is is that Alcan has mucho familiarity with ORD's shackles and will make me front springs with more arch in the foward half of the spring to compensate for the extra length of the shackles. This will give me both a lift and perfect, factory-spec caster. Using the longer shackle will allow the longer-than-stock front lift spring to cycle back towards the frame without hitting the frame underneath as soon as a stock shackle would, if at all. Longer-than-stock lift springs, when compressed, can make oem shackles rotate the springeye back and up into frame. This is the expensive method, but I do need new springs anyway and 4 Alcan springs were about $200 more than stock spec springs which wouldn't have the caster adjustment built into the front springs. Not to mention the Alcans will have 5 leaves up front with poly pad tips for a strong, yet smooth riding set-up. The rear springs will also be better made than stock. When it comes to leaf springs, GM chose safe with a reasonable ride & cost over the best. I'll be happy. But for you, you might try the shackles you have but be very observant of any adverse handling, especially at speed while turning. Have the alignment checked immediately after the install to get the true specs on what has changed, good or bad, before any check out drive. Correct as needed or put back on the stock shackles. Otherwise, ORD is probably your best bet.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
03-01-2005, 05:35 AM | #8 |
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I appreciate a 16 year old willing to ask the board for help. I especially appreciate when they are asking for help on a safety issue. Hats off to you
Well, here it is You can tune the old man out now When I was your age... I also had a 4X4. It wasn't a Chevy, but hey... I was young! Did I put shackles on the rear? Yup. Did I install cheep coil spring spacers to lift the front? Yup. Would I do it again today? Nope. I rolled the dice with the safety of myself and other people on the road and got lucky. Don't do the cheep lift... just say no! Oh wait... that saying came out before you were born |
03-01-2005, 10:54 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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1972 K-10 Longbox,6" lift w/35's/350/SM465/NP205/3.73 1972 C-10 Longbox,350/350 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP FOR SALE: 1971 K-10 Longbox,350/SM465/NP205 |
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03-01-2005, 06:56 PM | #10 |
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I have the ORD shackles on my GMC, they give about 1/4" of lift, they are for the front. Any more than that and the pinion will be pointing at the ground. The ORD shackles are really to keep the front "lift" springs from bottoming out on the frame before the spring flexes out. The 88-91 K5s had the 1/2 longer shackle from the factory. I would not use them to get any amount of appreciable lift i.e. 4" longer to get 2" of lift.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
03-01-2005, 06:57 PM | #11 |
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1/4" at most, but they are not worth the money they charge for them. buy yourself some 3/8" x 2" steel flat stock, cut em to length, and drill the holes at 4.5" center at most if you're running a stock lift spring. i converted to stock rear springs on the front (5" longer than stock fronts -52" vs. the stock 47"). i reversed the front mounts, pushing the axle forward around 2.5-3", moved the shackle mount forward on the frame, and i run a 7.25" center to center shackle.
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