Agh, my rear end is still clunking.

[Patrick Sullivan]

I get a definate clunk/jerk sometimes when I'm shifting from park into drive or reverse. I don't get it always, usually when I have pulled forward into a parking space and I then go to back out. Seems like something is binding up or has too much free play in my drivetrain. Thing is, the tranny, u-joints and carrier bearing are new. That leaves my rear differential..

It's an HO52 rear end with an HO72 3rd member. I imagine it's just worn out.. (Whatever the previous owner did to burn up the tranny in 40,000 miles probably damaged the diff, too). How do I go about replacing the gears in these things? Is it something I should even attempt? Or should I just bring it down to the shop? Can you even get new spiders for these things? How about posi units? Should I just replace the whole 3rd member? Have I asked enough questions? :p

Thanks.

[Gee_Emm]

Does it make noise when you stab the throttle quickly while driving?

[Patrick Sullivan]

No, I can't get it to make any noise by stabbing the throttle. Other than the voice inside my head telling me I'm beating the crap out of my u-joints, anyway..

[The Blue Pig]

Well, if you are considering replacing the rear end gears, carrier, or any of that, there is a lot going on there, and a lot to set up if it is done properly. If you switch out your One-tire-o'-fire open differential carrier for a limited slip, you will have to transfer your ring gear onto the other carrier, a job for a shop press. And speaking of shop presses, if you got all that out you could press in new axle bearing races and put in new seals. Then comes the chore of properly setting up a rear end. You could throw it all in there, bolt on your cover and it could last you 20 years, or you could do that and it falls apart tomorrow. There is a pinion depth measurement, a backlash measurement, to be taken after you achieve your optimum gear mesh between your pinion and ring gear, then there is carrier bearing pre-load, then youve got crush collar for the pinion pre-load, and then you have to check rolling torque of the whole assembly. A proper setup takes some time and special equipment every you or me out there may not have. Exapmle, pinion bearing goes out on my girlfriends 74 half ton, 2 wheel drive. I leave the state the next day for schooling in the lower 48, and her dad throws in some junk crap and just bolts it all together, I come back 1 year later, the rear end is toast, making noises and clunking. I pull it out, take it to a shop, one axle is toast, the pinion had been rubbing on the side of the carrier assembly, and so on and so forth. $1420.37 later, she has a brand new auburn pro series locker, brand new richmond 3.73 ring and pinion, new seals, bearings and races, and a new axle. Yeah it costs a lot, but for the use of their equipment, and knowing its done right we are happy. Something to consider... In the meantime, I think I will have this reply published and put out in a 3 part series of novels... "The Rear End That Wasn't"...