Lil' Help B4 I break something...Rearend - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

4tiresngas · 03-11-2005, 07:00 PM

I want to replace the axle seals while I am redoing the reaer brakes. How do I get the pin out of the differential so I can pull the axles? I took the bolt out that runs through it, but I do not know how to get it out.

Thanks

Brainchild · 03-11-2005, 07:37 PM

It should just push right out,most of the time they slide out on thier own.

What does the bolt look like?There should be the head of the bolt,a 1/2 inch of threads,and a shank 1-1/2 inches long or so.Is it still in tact?I have seen a lot of those break,and the shank still be in the carrier.

lengths may be wrong,but you gew tthe idea

4tiresngas · 03-11-2005, 07:40 PM

The bolt came all the way out. I took a small screwdriver and stuck in the hole and I can get the pin to wiggle but not enough to come out enough to grab it.

beautimus · 03-11-2005, 07:49 PM

B]The bolt came all the way out. I took a small screwdriver and stuck in the hole and I can get the pin to wiggle but not enough to come out enough to grab it.[/B]
try rotating the axle so that one end of the pin is up near the top of the opening in the housing. then take hammer and a punch or other suitable object,( i use an old head bolt) and tap the end of the pin. it should almost fall out on its own. just make sure that all of the lock bolt came out. the end of the bolt is prone to breakage. if a part of that bolt is still in the hole, the thru pin aint coming out. i have used a magnet on one and got really lucky, but thats the only one, i have been able to get out that way. usually if the carrier isn't already toast by that time, it will become that way before i can get the broken bolt out. good luck to you, Tony

Tx Firefighter · 03-11-2005, 08:08 PM

You've got a broken pin retainer bolt. There is a long straight pin section of the bolt past the threads. Usually, the bolt fails right at the end of the threads where the unthreaded part starts. That leaves the shank inside the hole.

Once you get that out, the big center pin will almost always fall out onto the ground.

4tiresngas · 03-11-2005, 08:14 PM

The bolt is all the way out. It is 2.25 in lonch and perfect...not broken. I can stick a screwdriver in the hole and wiggle the pin. I can push the pin in about an 1/8th of an in and it will come out just til it hits the outer edge of thecase and it freezes.

Tx Firefighter · 03-11-2005, 08:26 PM

Debur the hole in the diff carrier then, so the pin can slide out.

A slight tap with a hammer will do the same thing. The pin is much harder steel than the carrier is. Once you get it past the burred edge, it will go easily.

As an alternate, turn the differential 180 degrees and push the pin out the other way.

widow_maker · 03-11-2005, 08:34 PM

I agree with TX either the edge of the opening where the cross pin slides into and out of the carrier has a burr or where the locking bolt enters the cross pin there could be a burr or corrosion. My experience is to rotate the axle slightly and as others have said here, the pin falls right out. You may have to drive it slightly to get past the burr - just don't stike the cross pin hard and long enough to mushroom the end of the pin or your next step is the blue tip wrench.

4tiresngas · 03-11-2005, 10:20 PM

I think I'm jacked. I hitit with a hammer. It went in some. I stuck the screwdiver back in where the bolt goes to wiggle it like I had been doing, and it diod not move. Worse yet, screwdriver broke. Don't think it is logged. Hopefully, I can get a magnet and get it out. This sucks.

Tx Firefighter · 03-11-2005, 11:45 PM

That big pin in the center of the diff is harder than the hinges of hell. You can smack it and it's not going to mushroom on you. If the full retailer bolt/ pin is out and not broke off, do what you have to do to knock the big pin out.

Like I said, turn the carrier 180 degrees and knock it out the other way. This thing is not delicate.

4tiresngas · 03-12-2005, 01:12 AM

Tx, Here's the pin I am trying to get out. I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the carrier 180 degrees. Thanks for your help.

JBstor · 03-12-2005, 01:44 AM

As long as that bolt came out unbroken, you can feel free to hit that pin hard, but use a brass drift, and eye protection. The carrier is the part the pin is in, you should be able to turn it by grabbing the crown gear and turning it(that big gear attached to it, just to the left of the pin), or by turning both wheels at the same time. Then it will have room to slide out.

Sometimes the spider gears will have seized to the pin though, making it near impossible to get the pin out without a torch. the spider gears are inside the carrier, and the pin goes through them. they mesh with the side gears, which you should be able to see on the end of each axle inside the carrier. Try moving the pin and looking at the spider gears. See if they are stuck to the pin. Much fun!

HTH

JB

Sweet72 · 03-12-2005, 09:08 AM

Suspend the rear on jackstands and pull the axles out away from the pin (the axles should have about 1/16-1/8 inch of free-play before the C-clip stops them from coming out any further) then try pulling the pin. That big pin has flats milled into the sides of it for the axle ends to butt up against, the flats are only a little longer than the axle diameter and may cause interference with the wheels on the ground holding the axles in.

4tiresngas · 03-12-2005, 09:56 PM

Ok, update. I got the pin free. It wound up coming out the backside..not the side where the bolt is. It is not all the way out, but farenough to remove the C-clips. I was just going to give up, but I could not even get the freakin bolt to go back in because the pin had apparently twisted some. I'm a little concerned I may have this same issue when I attempt to reassemble this thing. I'm thinking I'll knock the pin in some and see if there is a burr on the bolt end. Then I hope to knock it out the bolt side, so I can see how the bolt hole is lining up as I'm reassembling.

Brainchild · 03-12-2005, 11:28 PM

Is that pin worn,or is it just the camera tricking my eyes?If it's worn it would be wise to replace it.

**Green Machine** · 03-13-2005, 02:27 AM

I agree with Brainchild - I used to do many long smoky single wheel burnouts when I had skinny tires on. That will cook the pin and the spiders. Since I put on larger tires, the clutch smokes before the tires do LOL. (3.07 rear). I got by with a new pin, but the spiders are still a little loose in there. Have a little extra slack in the rear end now, it just makes a little clink now and then.

03-11-2005, 07:00 PM	#1
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	Lil' Help B4 I break something...Rearend I want to replace the axle seals while I am redoing the reaer brakes. How do I get the pin out of the differential so I can pull the axles? I took the bolt out that runs through it, but I do not know how to get it out. Thanks __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-11-2005, 07:37 PM	#2
Brainchild Still drivin' a Rat Rod Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Monett Missouri Posts: 4,925	It should just push right out,most of the time they slide out on thier own. What does the bolt look like?There should be the head of the bolt,a 1/2 inch of threads,and a shank 1-1/2 inches long or so.Is it still in tact?I have seen a lot of those break,and the shank still be in the carrier. lengths may be wrong,but you gew tthe idea __________________ Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the a$# 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website

03-11-2005, 07:40 PM	#3
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	The bolt came all the way out. I took a small screwdriver and stuck in the hole and I can get the pin to wiggle but not enough to come out enough to grab it. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-11-2005, 07:49 PM	#4
beautimus Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: woodstock, alabama, usa Posts: 938	B]The bolt came all the way out. I took a small screwdriver and stuck in the hole and I can get the pin to wiggle but not enough to come out enough to grab it.[/B] try rotating the axle so that one end of the pin is up near the top of the opening in the housing. then take hammer and a punch or other suitable object,( i use an old head bolt) and tap the end of the pin. it should almost fall out on its own. just make sure that all of the lock bolt came out. the end of the bolt is prone to breakage. if a part of that bolt is still in the hole, the thru pin aint coming out. i have used a magnet on one and got really lucky, but thats the only one, i have been able to get out that way. usually if the carrier isn't already toast by that time, it will become that way before i can get the broken bolt out. good luck to you, Tony __________________ i survived cancer and kidney stones, but my kids are killing me.

03-11-2005, 08:08 PM	#5
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	You've got a broken pin retainer bolt. There is a long straight pin section of the bolt past the threads. Usually, the bolt fails right at the end of the threads where the unthreaded part starts. That leaves the shank inside the hole. Once you get that out, the big center pin will almost always fall out onto the ground. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

03-11-2005, 08:14 PM	#6
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	The bolt is all the way out. It is 2.25 in lonch and perfect...not broken. I can stick a screwdriver in the hole and wiggle the pin. I can push the pin in about an 1/8th of an in and it will come out just til it hits the outer edge of thecase and it freezes. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-11-2005, 08:26 PM	#7
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Debur the hole in the diff carrier then, so the pin can slide out. A slight tap with a hammer will do the same thing. The pin is much harder steel than the carrier is. Once you get it past the burred edge, it will go easily. As an alternate, turn the differential 180 degrees and push the pin out the other way. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

03-11-2005, 08:34 PM	#8
widow_maker This space for lease Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Michigan Posts: 75	I agree with TX either the edge of the opening where the cross pin slides into and out of the carrier has a burr or where the locking bolt enters the cross pin there could be a burr or corrosion. My experience is to rotate the axle slightly and as others have said here, the pin falls right out. You may have to drive it slightly to get past the burr - just don't stike the cross pin hard and long enough to mushroom the end of the pin or your next step is the blue tip wrench. __________________ If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something. 1972 K-20 l/f 383/350 a/c "custom camper" 1987 V-20 l/f Silverado - project

03-11-2005, 10:20 PM	#9
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	I think I'm jacked. I hitit with a hammer. It went in some. I stuck the screwdiver back in where the bolt goes to wiggle it like I had been doing, and it diod not move. Worse yet, screwdriver broke. Don't think it is logged. Hopefully, I can get a magnet and get it out. This sucks. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-11-2005, 11:45 PM	#10
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	That big pin in the center of the diff is harder than the hinges of hell. You can smack it and it's not going to mushroom on you. If the full retailer bolt/ pin is out and not broke off, do what you have to do to knock the big pin out. Like I said, turn the carrier 180 degrees and knock it out the other way. This thing is not delicate. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

03-12-2005, 01:12 AM	#11
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	Tx, Here's the pin I am trying to get out. I'm not sure what you mean by rotating the carrier 180 degrees. Thanks for your help. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-12-2005, 01:44 AM	#12
JBstor Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 66	As long as that bolt came out unbroken, you can feel free to hit that pin hard, but use a brass drift, and eye protection. The carrier is the part the pin is in, you should be able to turn it by grabbing the crown gear and turning it(that big gear attached to it, just to the left of the pin), or by turning both wheels at the same time. Then it will have room to slide out. Sometimes the spider gears will have seized to the pin though, making it near impossible to get the pin out without a torch. the spider gears are inside the carrier, and the pin goes through them. they mesh with the side gears, which you should be able to see on the end of each axle inside the carrier. Try moving the pin and looking at the spider gears. See if they are stuck to the pin. Much fun! HTH JB

03-12-2005, 09:08 AM	#13
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Suspend the rear on jackstands and pull the axles out away from the pin (the axles should have about 1/16-1/8 inch of free-play before the C-clip stops them from coming out any further) then try pulling the pin. That big pin has flats milled into the sides of it for the axle ends to butt up against, the flats are only a little longer than the axle diameter and may cause interference with the wheels on the ground holding the axles in. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

03-12-2005, 09:56 PM	#14
4tiresngas An American Soldier Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy Posts: 503	Ok, update. I got the pin free. It wound up coming out the backside..not the side where the bolt is. It is not all the way out, but farenough to remove the C-clips. I was just going to give up, but I could not even get the freakin bolt to go back in because the pin had apparently twisted some. I'm a little concerned I may have this same issue when I attempt to reassemble this thing. I'm thinking I'll knock the pin in some and see if there is a burr on the bolt end. Then I hope to knock it out the bolt side, so I can see how the bolt hole is lining up as I'm reassembling. __________________ Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil

03-12-2005, 11:28 PM	#15
Brainchild Still drivin' a Rat Rod Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Monett Missouri Posts: 4,925	Is that pin worn,or is it just the camera tricking my eyes?If it's worn it would be wise to replace it. __________________ Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the a$# 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website



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03-13-2005, 02:27 AM	#16
Green Machine Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Estherville, Iowa Posts: 3,371	I agree with Brainchild - I used to do many long smoky single wheel burnouts when I had skinny tires on. That will cook the pin and the spiders. Since I put on larger tires, the clutch smokes before the tires do LOL. (3.07 rear). I got by with a new pin, but the spiders are still a little loose in there. Have a little extra slack in the rear end now, it just makes a little clink now and then.

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