how to remove por-15 from skin? - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Slammed67 · 07-19-2002, 02:02 PM

I think the real question is "How do you remove skin from POR-15"!!!

LOL.... I've had some luck with acetone.

PICKMUP · 07-22-2002, 08:26 PM

When it is still wet, you can get it off with lac thinner...when it dries...well, just wear it like a man! It is a macho sign of a true "Truck Guy". If you have to bake it...spray it three more times...bake it again...etc,etc,etc go get your parts powdercoated. Let someone else do the work. POR is an easy, simple product to use, that gives great results without a lot of equipment....don't make it complicated!

scull67 · 07-22-2002, 08:50 PM

It hurts, but if you take a green scrub pad and some dish detergent you can get it off in the first hour or two without losing too much skin.

mikep · 07-22-2002, 09:38 PM

Hey Pickmup

I used to refinish guns for a living and compared to painting chassis parts ...well there is no comparison. It has to be perfect or the customer will ***** and take his business elsewhere the next time along with his friends business and everyone he talks to! Its not something hidden under a fenderwell. Wer'e talking 500 degrees plus heat that comes on fast and all the solvents better be baked the hell out or the finish will bubble and flake as in right now OR it will turn into a sloppy mess that scratches with your fingernail. Believe me Ive used probably 50+ gallons of the stuff over the last 4 years along with products that make POR15 look like fingernail polish and the only way to get "permanent" surface adhesion with that stuff is to sandblast, acid etch the surface to impart surface porosity , heat it up to expand the surface pores and spray it with several wet coats to get the paint "under " the surface. I went to POR 15 because it was a lot cheaper than some of the other finishes I used but with proper surface prep it was just as durable. Baking it drives off ALL the solvents and leaves you with what is essentially a porcelain coating. To use it on guns you have to do that stuff or the finish will go to hell in a handbasket. I do it on car parts because its the best way to do it bar none and that includes powder coating. If I wanted to get the stuff powder coated I would do that . I used to be the maintenance supervisor in a DOD contractor sheetmetal shop and I had access to salt spray testing eqpt and paint and coating testing eqpt you wouldnt believe .The process I have outlined far surpasses what the standards for powdercoating are .

I believe in spending the money or the time to do it right the first time so I dont have to do it again. And I believe in doing everything I am capable of doing myself even if it means I have to learn a new skill along the way.

POR does give good results and you can get adequete results by doing simple but adequate surface prep and waiting for the solvent to evaporate and the cyanoacrylate matrix to polymerize but the whole concept of painting over rust sends chills down my back!

ulloaalfonso · 07-22-2002, 11:45 PM

Its almost off. I have a little left around my fingernails, but it should come off in a couple days. Thanks guys.

70 Jimmy · 07-23-2002, 12:29 AM

On the powdercoating vs. POR question... Powdercoating is definitly good enough. PowdercoatinThe comparison is like saying a six pack gets me drunk but a 12 pack gets me really, really, really druck. A six pack will do. Powder coating is a heck of alot easier than the POR procedure you discribed. Just my opinion.

mikep · 07-23-2002, 12:42 AM

since I dont have an electrostatic gun and powdercoating booth in my garage I use my method. I do however have a compressor , an old kitchen oven that I bought at a garage sale for $10 , a trusty old binks spray gun and a sandblasting cabinet . I am the master of my own destiny.

I worked in the sheetmetal coating biz for years. Dont let anyone fool you. Powdercoating is not inherently better than solvent based paint application. It is environmentally cleaner and is a lot less hassle to get permitting for then high VOC coatings which is why its used so often in industry but a 2 part catalyzed epoxy paint will be more chip resistant and a polymerized cyanoacrylite is a lot tougher than most interlaced polymer "powder coats". Powder coating is just a means of media application . They do tend to be more uniform due to the application process but theres some good liquid application solvent based coatings out there you can apply at home that will blow any industrial powder coating away for durability and gloss.

07-19-2002, 02:02 PM	#26
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	I think the real question is "How do you remove skin from POR-15"!!! LOL.... I've had some luck with acetone. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

07-22-2002, 08:26 PM	#27
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,144	When it is still wet, you can get it off with lac thinner...when it dries...well, just wear it like a man! It is a macho sign of a true "Truck Guy". If you have to bake it...spray it three more times...bake it again...etc,etc,etc go get your parts powdercoated. Let someone else do the work. POR is an easy, simple product to use, that gives great results without a lot of equipment....don't make it complicated! __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

07-22-2002, 08:50 PM	#28
scull67 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Hoboken, NJ, USA Posts: 228	It hurts, but if you take a green scrub pad and some dish detergent you can get it off in the first hour or two without losing too much skin. __________________ Hoboken, N.J.(home)/ Washington, D.C.(work)

07-22-2002, 09:38 PM	#29
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	Hey Pickmup I used to refinish guns for a living and compared to painting chassis parts ...well there is no comparison. It has to be perfect or the customer will ***** and take his business elsewhere the next time along with his friends business and everyone he talks to! Its not something hidden under a fenderwell. Wer'e talking 500 degrees plus heat that comes on fast and all the solvents better be baked the hell out or the finish will bubble and flake as in right now OR it will turn into a sloppy mess that scratches with your fingernail. Believe me Ive used probably 50+ gallons of the stuff over the last 4 years along with products that make POR15 look like fingernail polish and the only way to get "permanent" surface adhesion with that stuff is to sandblast, acid etch the surface to impart surface porosity , heat it up to expand the surface pores and spray it with several wet coats to get the paint "under " the surface. I went to POR 15 because it was a lot cheaper than some of the other finishes I used but with proper surface prep it was just as durable. Baking it drives off ALL the solvents and leaves you with what is essentially a porcelain coating. To use it on guns you have to do that stuff or the finish will go to hell in a handbasket. I do it on car parts because its the best way to do it bar none and that includes powder coating. If I wanted to get the stuff powder coated I would do that . I used to be the maintenance supervisor in a DOD contractor sheetmetal shop and I had access to salt spray testing eqpt and paint and coating testing eqpt you wouldnt believe .The process I have outlined far surpasses what the standards for powdercoating are . I believe in spending the money or the time to do it right the first time so I dont have to do it again. And I believe in doing everything I am capable of doing myself even if it means I have to learn a new skill along the way. POR does give good results and you can get adequete results by doing simple but adequate surface prep and waiting for the solvent to evaporate and the cyanoacrylate matrix to polymerize but the whole concept of painting over rust sends chills down my back! __________________ No truck :-( Last edited by mikep; 07-22-2002 at 11:35 PM.

07-23-2002, 12:29 AM	#31
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	On the powdercoating vs. POR question... Powdercoating is definitly good enough. PowdercoatinThe comparison is like saying a six pack gets me drunk but a 12 pack gets me really, really, really druck. A six pack will do. Powder coating is a heck of alot easier than the POR procedure you discribed. Just my opinion. __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

07-22-2002, 11:45 PM	#30
ulloaalfonso Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: San Bruno, CA, US Posts: 10	Its almost off. I have a little left around my fingernails, but it should come off in a couple days. Thanks guys.

07-23-2002, 12:42 AM	#32
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	since I dont have an electrostatic gun and powdercoating booth in my garage I use my method. I do however have a compressor , an old kitchen oven that I bought at a garage sale for $10 , a trusty old binks spray gun and a sandblasting cabinet . I am the master of my own destiny. I worked in the sheetmetal coating biz for years. Dont let anyone fool you. Powdercoating is not inherently better than solvent based paint application. It is environmentally cleaner and is a lot less hassle to get permitting for then high VOC coatings which is why its used so often in industry but a 2 part catalyzed epoxy paint will be more chip resistant and a polymerized cyanoacrylite is a lot tougher than most interlaced polymer "powder coats". Powder coating is just a means of media application . They do tend to be more uniform due to the application process but theres some good liquid application solvent based coatings out there you can apply at home that will blow any industrial powder coating away for durability and gloss. __________________ No truck :-(



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