Washer pump line routing - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

powell72 · 03-14-2005, 02:00 PM

Well the only thing on my truck that doesn't work is the washer pump. I'm going to get it going but first things first, I need to know where all the lines go to. Mine are all unhooked under the dash. Does anyone have a pic or diagram or a post I can check out? Thanks.

Custom 68 · 03-14-2005, 02:18 PM

Well it is pretty simple. The larger hose (opening) goes to the water tank, the other 2 smaller just go to the squirters. You should be able to hear it "pump" if it is wired up. Mine had been unhooked for a long while as I was restoring the truck I hooked them up and they are working.
Good luck
DAve

powell72 · 03-14-2005, 08:33 PM

The PO had apparently installed an aftermarket washer pump when the original quite working and left all the hoses still up under the dash. Once I got all that crap out of the way I was able to see what you mean about it being simple. The pump runs but will not pull fluid out of the tank. I think the pump needs a rebuild. At least I found out all the lines are clear and there is power and ground to the pump. Thanks.

Sweet72 · 03-14-2005, 09:01 PM

I hope this link helps. I was able to buy a rebuild kit from napa 8-10 yrs ago but don't know if they still sell them.
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...grpid=79798049

farside847 · 03-14-2005, 09:05 PM

mine doesnt work either. I tried to blow air through the tubes and there was
a lot of resistance. Im goint to try new tubes before I pull out the unit...

BubbaGreen · 03-14-2005, 10:42 PM

alot of places sell just the washer pump...
its even still available in AC Delco for those diehards...
Couple of bolts hold it to the side of the windshield motor.
Take your old one off and dis-assemble the 3-tube head and see if you can clean it up.

Green Machine · 03-15-2005, 12:21 AM

Sometimes a little priming will help. Unhook main hose at pump, have helper blow thru little hole on tank, when fluid comes out quickly connect hose to pump. If it works and a few days later it quits and have to reprime, the little rubber valves are dirty or shot. I cleaned mine several times, tried a repair kit with the valves, but the permanent fix was to replace whole pump assy. Since they are had to get at I would just put in the whole pump if you take anything apart.

03-14-2005, 02:00 PM	#1
powell72 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Loveland Co. Posts: 3,098	Washer pump line routing Well the only thing on my truck that doesn't work is the washer pump. I'm going to get it going but first things first, I need to know where all the lines go to. Mine are all unhooked under the dash. Does anyone have a pic or diagram or a post I can check out? Thanks. __________________ Chris 74 Custom Deluxe SWB 350/350/3.73’s 99 2wd Silverado RCSB 5.3/4L60/3.90’s http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...short_bed.html

03-14-2005, 02:18 PM	#2
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,939	Well it is pretty simple. The larger hose (opening) goes to the water tank, the other 2 smaller just go to the squirters. You should be able to hear it "pump" if it is wired up. Mine had been unhooked for a long while as I was restoring the truck I hooked them up and they are working. Good luck DAve __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

03-14-2005, 08:33 PM	#3
powell72 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Loveland Co. Posts: 3,098	The PO had apparently installed an aftermarket washer pump when the original quite working and left all the hoses still up under the dash. Once I got all that crap out of the way I was able to see what you mean about it being simple. The pump runs but will not pull fluid out of the tank. I think the pump needs a rebuild. At least I found out all the lines are clear and there is power and ground to the pump. Thanks. __________________ Chris 74 Custom Deluxe SWB 350/350/3.73’s 99 2wd Silverado RCSB 5.3/4L60/3.90’s http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...short_bed.html

03-14-2005, 09:01 PM	#4
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	I hope this link helps. I was able to buy a rebuild kit from napa 8-10 yrs ago but don't know if they still sell them. http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...grpid=79798049 __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

03-14-2005, 09:05 PM	#5
farside847 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 995	mine doesnt work either. I tried to blow air through the tubes and there was a lot of resistance. Im goint to try new tubes before I pull out the unit... __________________ 1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree

03-14-2005, 10:42 PM	#6
BubbaGreen Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 686	alot of places sell just the washer pump... its even still available in AC Delco for those diehards... Couple of bolts hold it to the side of the windshield motor. Take your old one off and dis-assemble the 3-tube head and see if you can clean it up. __________________ 71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

03-15-2005, 12:21 AM	#7
Green Machine Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Estherville, Iowa Posts: 3,371	Sometimes a little priming will help. Unhook main hose at pump, have helper blow thru little hole on tank, when fluid comes out quickly connect hose to pump. If it works and a few days later it quits and have to reprime, the little rubber valves are dirty or shot. I cleaned mine several times, tried a repair kit with the valves, but the permanent fix was to replace whole pump assy. Since they are had to get at I would just put in the whole pump if you take anything apart. __________________ 1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0



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