Something ain't right!

[krue]

I have taken a closer look at the front suspension on the parts truck (getting lined up to swap crossmembers) when I noticed the left and right a-arms ain't the same. What do I have here? What can I do about it?

[beaterC10]

Looks like the passenger side loosened up and slid forward or the locating pins are sheared off on that side.

[jalste]

I agree with beaterc10 or maybe the truck had a caster problem and was solved the cheap way by drilling a new locating pin, need to take it apart to see whats going on

[krue]

If you look close it looks like the pass side is wider than the drivers side. The gap is the same on the back side of the crossmember but wider on the front side.

[krue]

Do I need the control arms to do the disc brake swap? Swapping the whole crossmember may not be the best way to do this.

[beaterC10]

No you don't have to use those control arms, you can put the later balljoints in your control arms. I did that several years ago on a 63.

[Sonny]

When you get the arms off the crossmember you will see an indentation machined on the control arm shaft that cooresponds to a pin in the front saddle. Most likely the PO didn't make sure the shaft stayed put when it was installed and the shaft shifted. What are you trying to accomplish with the swap?

Sonny

[krue]

Trying to put disc brakes on my 70 GMC. How would the a-arm spread because the shaft shifted?

[cableguy0]

the easiest thing to do. is your leave suspension intact steal the spindles from the newer truck and swap your ball joints out for newer ones. you can get sleeves to put on the end of your existing tie rods to make them fit the hole in the newer spindle. the suspension probably need new parts anyways.

[jamis]

I wouldn't use that crossmemer either. That contol arm is the wrong one and it was modified to fit. Becareful they didn't modify the spindle as well.

[68C15]

looks like maybe someone swapped in a 3/4 or 1 ton arm into a 1/2 ton or vice versa. I, personally, would do the ball joint-spindle swap as mentioned earlier. oh wait, I already did that on mine. hehe
I prefer the non-rubber bushed arms by the way.

[purple gas]

I'm not an expert, but first thing I'd do is measure absolutely everything to see if you got some mystery parts in the mix. ( parts on each side should be the same size, No?)then maybe measure from a crossmember farther back diagonally to a few points on the front to see if your frame is square. While your under there check for any wrinkles in your frame rails.

[Gary Lee]

I never have had to mess with mine, but ain't redneck engineering a wunderful thing? I think by the pics, that it was a a wrong replacement, but I am anal bout the safety things being right... especially fer my precious cargo!!! Them future truck owners would agree on he safety issue as well i'm sure...

[krue]

After further thought, I am just gonna rob the spindles for the swap. It means this is gonna be a parts truck, no question about it.

[jalste]

I agree take a good look and measure everything safety is important, dont want you to end up like jersey´s pick of the truck vs. tree.
hang in there the problem will pop up soon

[beaterC10]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

the easiest thing to do. is your leave suspension intact steal the spindles from the newer truck and swap your ball joints out for newer ones. you can get sleeves to put on the end of your existing tie rods to make them fit the hole in the newer spindle. the suspension probably need new parts anyways.

Or take the center link with the spindles and use stock replacement tie rod ends. Might have to change the pitman arm to match the new center link but you don't have to buy any custom replacment parts down the road.

[chickenwing]

Krue, I dont' have an answer for ya but do have a question for Cableguy0.... Not tryin to "steal" your thread but no search requires drastic measures. Maybe I'll help you out with my questions by accident.

Cableguy0, Could you elaborate a little bit more on the tie rod end sleeves you mentioned? Maybe a vendor and part#?

Anyone, Just to keep me on the straight and narrow. For a 73-87 1/2 ton 5 lug swap to a 67-72 1/2 ton... You use 73-87 spindles/rotors and ball-joints... No control arm swap or crossmember swap required. Tie rod ends will stay the same if you use the "sleeves" cable guy spoke of?

[beaterC10]

Originally Posted by chickenwing

Krue, I dont' have an answer for ya but do have a question for Cableguy0.... Not tryin to "steal" your thread but no search requires drastic measures. Maybe I'll help you out with my questions by accident.

Cableguy0, Could you elaborate a little bit more on the tie rod end sleeves you mentioned? Maybe a vendor and part#?

Anyone, Just to keep me on the straight and narrow. For a 73-87 1/2 ton 5 lug swap to a 67-72 1/2 ton... You use 73-87 spindles/rotors and ball-joints... No control arm swap or crossmember swap required. Tie rod ends will stay the same if you use the "sleeves" cable guy spoke of?

I think ECE has the sleeves in question. They are custom sized tie rod adjusting sleeves that allow the use of the smaller diameter diameter stock tie rod ends and the larger diameter later tie rods in the same sleeve.