Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
03-12-2005, 09:43 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: North Delta, British Columbia
Posts: 1,344
|
How do you adjust carb...
I failed my emmisions testing. I had a high CO reading. How do you adjust the carb to lower this?
__________________
1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
03-12-2005, 09:48 PM | #2 |
Embrace the Redneck
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cabot, AR
Posts: 1,334
|
what kind of Carb do you have? that is the number one question. and two did you run some carb cleaner through the tank??
I just want to add that I love ARkansas. there's no safety or emmision testing. we dont' care if you run a POS or the like or if it runs bad either. sswj
__________________
'01 Camaro Son, you just can't get there from here... |
03-12-2005, 10:31 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: North Delta, British Columbia
Posts: 1,344
|
it's an edelbrock and no I didn't run anything through it.
__________________
1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
03-13-2005, 12:07 AM | #4 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,373
|
I like Atlanta. No emissions on vehicles 20yrs old or older. I only pay $180 per year for indurance w/full coverage on my truck and a $250 deductible. Good deal.
Is there a FAQ article on carbs? Like, how to tell if you're burning rich or lean, how to adjust for diff't gas levels, etc?
__________________
If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
03-13-2005, 04:05 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Lenox,IL
Posts: 306
|
I don't think there's emissions testings on cars/trucks older than 30 years in Illinois either.
__________________
1985 Chevrolet C-30 454 1-TON Dooley 1969 CHEVROLET CST-10 PICK-UP Good memories 1999 Chevrolet Z71 Ext. cab 5.7L Good Memories With a quart of oil, and a gallon of gas, she won't let no other car pass!!!. & FOREVER |
03-18-2005, 08:53 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: North Delta, British Columbia
Posts: 1,344
|
So can anyone help answer my question? I'm guessing those two dial like things in the front of the carb are part of the solution. About 2 years ago when I failed the first time, I had the smallest jets for this carb put in and it passed no problem. I didn't touch the carb after that. Since then the truck has been sitting and I just started driving it again. Siphoned out the old gas, put in new gas and drove. I didn't spray any carb cleaner though. Anything else I could do?
__________________
1992 Gmc 2wd 1972 Chevy Blazer 2wd |
03-18-2005, 09:16 PM | #7 |
69 C-10 project
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Eastern, NC
Posts: 184
|
Air filter clean?
__________________
69 C-10 Work is complete |
03-18-2005, 09:32 PM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,011
|
Edelbrock Calibration
If you have the smallest jets, the carburetor could be running too lean, which will cause inefficient combustion. Take a look at Edelbrock's website for a wealth of information on tuning their carbs. Here's a chart they have on their website for selecting the right jets and metering rods. You might also have a problem with your ignition system. Replacing the cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires couldn't hurt.
|
03-19-2005, 12:40 AM | #9 |
Truck addict
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lincoln, California
Posts: 497
|
Well first you need to know where your car is running lean vs. rich. CO comes from incomplete combustion so like someone else said it could also be ignition related. One cylinder could be misfiring, or something like that the problem may not be the carb.
Do you have the rest of the exhaust gas numbers? If you do use this chart and try to figure out if you are running rich... or if you have the numbers post them and I will try to figure it out
__________________
1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20 Last edited by Jeremy_5; 03-19-2005 at 12:44 AM. |
03-19-2005, 01:12 AM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Delta,Pa
Posts: 14,948
|
an engine that sits too long needs to be driven and kinda get all the crap cleaned out that builds up from sitting.
__________________
Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member. |
03-19-2005, 01:20 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bay Area, Northern California
Posts: 1,344
|
Hi CO usually means you are running too rich. A dirty air filter or not enough Oxygen could cause this to happen or just too much fuel to air ratio. I don't know much about engine tuning or carburetor adjustment but I know little about emissions. The two screws you mentioned is the fuel mixture adjustment. Maybe someone will advise the proper way to adjust your mixture. A misfire will cause unburned gas (raw gas) to pass through your tailpipe, therefore you will get high HC's (hydrocarbons) and not high CO from a misfire. If you pull a plug wire your HC's will jump up and not CO. If you lean out your carburetor too much you will get a condition called lean idle missfire and produce high HC's also. A vacuum leak will produce the same result. Since your failure was CO then your problem should be carburetor related. Your not getting enough oxygen to combust the fuel completely. So either you have too much fuel or dirty jets. If I remember correctly dirty jets would produce an undesirable spray pattern and therefore not atomize the fuel for complete combustion. CO= imcomplete combustion, HC= unburned gas.
My guess would be to make sure the jets are clean, your air filter is clean and air cleaner is functioning and adjust the fuel mixture down but not too low that it starts missfiring.
__________________
03 Tahoe 72 GMC Super Custom 2500 Custom Camper, my reliable workhorse. Dual gauged tanks, dual battery trays. |
03-19-2005, 04:53 AM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: mt juliet, tennessee, usa
Posts: 237
|
I seem to remember a device that you could screw into the plug hole.
It functioned as a spark plug but it would allow you to "see" the combustion. Apparently, the color of the flame would tell you whether you were running rich or lean. Never saw this device, but several board members commented on it some time back. Don't know what its called. Anybody have any more info? Jim Mt Juliet |
03-19-2005, 02:15 PM | #13 |
Semi-Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 390
|
I assume your truck had just an idle test, probably in park/neutral.
You might replace points and condensor and check timing, if you have points. Everything others had said about filters and running rich are dead on. Try pulling the PCV out of the valve cover and listen to the engine. If the speed changes at all, change the oil, it could be saturated with gas. To adjust the idle mixture, let truck idle until completely warm. Make sure the choke is wide open. If it isn't then that's your problem. If open, turn each mixture screw in a 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the engine idle (preferably with a tach). Turn them the 1/4 turn until you hear it slow down. Then turn them out 1/8 to 1/4 to make it smooth out. Do it a couple of times to make sure. This should get you close. BTW, 25 year old cars don't get sniffed in Missouri anymore.
__________________
'68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab |
Bookmarks |
|
|