Help me do it right the first time

[79BIG10]

Well I finally am going to be able to do my axle swap. After buying parts as $$$ allowed I've got most everything I need to do a complete axle swap so I want to make sure I do everything that needs done once and done right. I've got 5 days off next week to work on the truck and I am going to try and not rush anything. Here's a list of things that I'm going to do myself or have done.

1. The 12 bolt I have (donor) is getting cleaned up and regeared with all new bearings, shims, etc. and going from the 3.40 in there to the 3.73 with gov-loc carrier I have now. The gov-loc will eventually be replaced with a power trax setup.

2. I'll be getting the brake drums turned and also new pads, and springs inside to make sure all done. I'll have to replace the outer wheel bearings and seals but no problem there. Am I right in that just to undo the C clips and pull the shafts then replace the seals and bearings?

3. The axle needs a new paint job deperately. It has very little rust on it and will clean up good. I'll still place a rust preventative on it to be safe. I'll be painting it black but should rattle can work or should I break out the spray gun with compressor? I've never used the spray gun and tempted to try it. I just want it to look good once it's done.

4. I'll be pulling the whole axle with leaf springs and shocks. The shocks off thr donor are still good and no problem changing them out later on. The leafs I have will be painted like the axle will be once it's all removed. The bushings are being replaced with Performance Suspension polyurethane with graphite impregnated inside.

5. The u-joints will be replaced as well. They've been replaced a couple years ago but I'll go ahead and change them out as well (cheap insurance).

6. I'm also going to change out the U bolts and nuts if I can find some replacements at the store.

7. I'll change out the main hose coming to the axle as well for a new brake line.

8. What gear oil should I used? Is synthetic that good and will it affect the gears being setup and also what about the gov loc? The gears are used but still look strong and smooth wear pattern.

Anything else I need to do? Please let me know anything else you would do to change this up. I'm going from a 3.07 to a 3.73 so I hear it's going to be quite a difference. I've added a tranny cooler awhile back so I have thought about the difference on the tranny already.

[boxrodz]

Sounds like a very good plan.

Depending on the condition of the drums, you may want to consider 'new' drums. They're about $40 - $50. You also may want to consider getting new wheel cylinders while you're at it - about $10. Yeah, you should be able to push the axles in slightly to remove the C-clips. Axles should then come out.

Although spray bombing should work, I'd try the spray gun to get practice especially if you plan to do more painting down the road.

I heard to stay away from synthetic oil as a gear oil, but I don't really know. You may want to visit the Red Line, Royal Purple or another gear oil web site.

Good luck. Hope everything goes smooth.

[bluex]

If you live in a bigger city you might not have a problem but I had to order my u-bolts from LMC b/c no one around stocked or could get the correct size bolts. They had the right length, but not the right thread size. I cant remember what it was off the top of my head. I hope you can find them locally b/c they were $78 for four with shipping and all. My truck is also a Big 10/Heavy Half.

I noticed a big difference going from a 3.07 to 3.73, but I have a 700R4 also.

[MylilBowTie]

If the axles are out it will make it a lot easier to clean up brake assembles.

Check this out http://www.lighthouse57.com/brakes.htm

I know this link is for a 14 bolt 10.5 rear. But the disassembly and clean up is pretty much all the same. Cleaning up the backing plate with sandpaper and anti-seize is a pretty good idea also.

[dswancutt]

If you’re going to do your brakes, change out your wheel cylinders as Boxrodz suggested. I learned the hard way when doing the rear brakes on my 78K10. I thought the wheel cylinders looked OK, only to have the right wheel cylinder begin to leak two days later. Long story short, I ended up redoing my brakes. If you’re this far into it, spend the extra money to change out the wheel cylinders.

Doug

[79BIG10]

Great ideas guys. I'll definately change out the wheel cylinders. I've never done drums before so I'll be breaking out the manual on this event.

Thanks for the link mylilbowtie That will help alot on the cleanup I've got to do.

On the wheel cylinders is it best to go with the self adjusting?

[boxrodz]

I think it depends if your 12-bolt or your 10-bolt came equipped with self-adjusting brakes. If they're interchangeable, I would go with them. If you disassemble both sides at the same time, you may want to take a pic or two for reference to help you when you put everything back together. Although, there's a lot of parts, it's not too bad if you keep track of them. You may also want to get a 'brake spring' remover tool to make the job easier. Also, brake caliper grease helps keeps moving parts smooth and quiet. (Lube all moving metal-to-metal contact surfaces.) BTW, be careful not to breathe in the brake dust.

[MylilBowTie]

Your welcome, and I was like you about drum brakes now its opened a new window for me. I feel pretty good about being able to work on them and that's a very important part not to mess up. I would barrow a digital camera if you can and just do one side at a time. To get the hang of it. I didn't have the brake tool but I did use a pare of med vicegrips and needle nose vicegrips to help with the springs. Its really not that hard after you get used to where things go.

[79BIG10]

Yeah I'll do one side at a time to make sure to have a reference to look back at along with my manuals including a shop one.