Driver front brake on 68 (hey that rhymes) is messed up. HELP!

[whitesswj]

hey guys, once again it's me!

The 68 moves under it's own power now and when i took it out i didn't even get out of 2, not fast enough to put "good" pressure on the pedal. I took it out a couple days ago and i "tested" the brakes, they're good on 3 corners. when i "tested" it pulled hard to the right and left a skid mark on the passenger side when i backed up to look. Darn thing nearly broke my thumb.

I got out there today and tried to get the front driver drum off and i can't seem to make it budge. I checked the fluid level and it's plenty full and isn't leaking from the hub. I think it needs to be adjusted but i wanted to take the drum off to check the conditon of the wheel cylinder and shoes.

I was reading the FAQ's and found one thread that said you need to take the hub nut off at the center of the hub. Is this true for all Drm drm brakes and how do i do so?

I noticed that there's 2 oval shaped holes straight accross from each other on the face of the drum. and i've still got the covers over the end of the hub.

enlighten me.

thanks sswj

[jhow66]

Can you turn the wheel?

[whitesswj]

oh yea. it drives fine. i had my wifey stand on the brakes and i tired to turn the wheel and had no problem rotating the wheel. there was no resistance whatsoever. when i took the wheel off i noticed that when i rotated the drum it "caught" for just a little instance and then moved on.

sswj

[jhow66]

Sounds like you have a brake hose that is shot on that side. (loose stuff inside the hose that traps the fluid under pressure then slowly bleed back off ). Also mat be not letting pressure reach wheel cylinder.

[69 Short Fleet]

sswj. To pull the drum all you need to do is pop the round grease cover off the end (flat screwdriver & pry it off) then there shd. be a cotter pin you have to pull out on the threads, next take the nut off (shd. be a little more than finger tight) next there shd. be a flat washer and then the outer wheel bearing (pull those off) and then the drum shd. come off (may need to tap it with a hammer/ small sledge) Doug

[whitesswj]

when putting this all back together. how tight should the nut be?? thanks and also, any tips on repacking the bearings. while i'm in there i might as well do so.

sswj

[oj70chevy]

To pull the drum all you need to do is pop the round grease cover off the end (flat screwdriver & pry it off) then there shd. be a cotter pin you have to pull out on the threads, next take the nut off (shd. be a little more than finger tight) next there shd. be a flat washer and then the outer wheel bearing (pull those off) and then the drum shd. come off (may need to tap it with a hammer/ small sledge) Doug[/QUOTE]

Is he working on a drum or disk brakes? The above information I thought would apply to a power brake system with disks. I had the same problem with the rear breaks on a 97 burb. The rear drum would turn freely but I could not take off the drum. I ended up hitting it off with a sledge hammer. The problem was the brake pad had worn so much it the metal studs that hold the pad on eat into the drum.

[Chevy68c10]

How tough is it to convert Drums to Disc brakes on a Chevy 68 c10

[69 Short Fleet]

sswj. When reinstalling the nut just do it snug finger tight and align the cotter pin hole, sometimes you have to turn the nut just a SMALL amount with a cresent wrench to get the nut lined up. Make sure to check that the drum spins around in a circle freely (a small amount of drag is ok). There shd. be no play with the drum when you pull & push on it (ie toward the engine & away from the engine). One thing I've found when rebuilding brakes is you shd. never only rebuild 1 brake, always do them in pairs (ie do both fronts at the same time, or do both rears at the same time), another good practice to do is always get the drums turned at a reputable machine/brake shop. You shd get a bearing grease repacking kit (any auto store) they pay for themselves quickly as it forces out the old grease and dirt and a clean bearing is a "happy bearing" as we all know (lol). You probably already know this stuff anyway, Happy Truckin

oj70chevy. Yes that's how the drum comes off, good point with the brake shoe wearing a grove into the drum those can be a p-a-i-n to get off. Doug

[whitesswj]

The removal was easier done that said of the drum.

After i was in there i has someone else press the pedal and.....nothing. No movement at all. I noticed that the rear shoe was like 1mm thick where as the front was about 5 to 6 mm thick. not nearly enough on the rear to pass any state inspection.

What next? check the bleeder valve to see if i'm getting fluid to the cylinder? if not then what?? thanks sswj

[whitesswj]

ttt

[69 Short Fleet]

It sounds like your wheel cylinder may be stuck open or seized. I would take it off and pull it apart and have a look at it, if thats the problem I'd replace it (there cheap $$$). Other than that I would look at the prop valve (but I doubt that's the culprit). Make sure you use a NEW copper washer for the brake line when you reinstall it. Don't forget when installing the new shoes to install the larger shoe toward the rear of the vehical also. Hope this helps, Doug

[whitesswj]

ok i opened the beelder valve.. well i took it off and had someone to push the pedal and nothing came out not even a drop. the threads were a little wet. i know the other side is getting fluid b/c i heard it move and i tired to rotate it and it won't move witht he pedal depressed. I'm going to pull the line at the T and see if any comes from there. of so it's got to be a line.

any ideas, thanks sswj

[jhow66]

It will probably be your rubber flex hose.

[whitesswj]

that's what i'm guessing

anyother ideas??

oh what size are the shoes on this thing? thanks sswj

[jhow66]

Just measure the width of shoe.

[krue]

Just take the old shoes in with you, it's the best way to make sure you get what you need.