replacing A'C compressor - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Frankd · 04-07-2005, 05:18 PM

I'm cheating - I hav an 88 surburban 1/2 ton , it seems no one on the burb threads know the answer to my question. I have to replace my a/c compressor,am gonna use r-134. Does any one know how much of the special oil to use and wheree to put it? I've bought compressor, oil; and r-134

NeCrOmAnCeR · 04-07-2005, 07:04 PM

Is the replacement compressor a factory type? If so measure the ammount in the old compressor and add the same ammount to the new one. Then replace the accumulator and evac the system, hit it with an oil charge ( someone here should know the propper ammount for a 'burb) and then charge it up. Use a set of manifild guages to check for the propper fill. Good luck.

aesj2 · 04-07-2005, 09:06 PM

Total system without rear A/C 240ml - with rear A/C 330 ml.
Compressor/new - drain and measure, if less than 30ml drained then add 60ml, if more than 30 ml drained add same amount.
Accumulator/new - 105ml
Evaporator/new - 90ml
Comdenser/new - 30ml

Frankd · 04-07-2005, 10:13 PM

thanks for the help, but I'm now confused- I'm just rreplacing the compressor, with a factory tye (autozone),

aesj2 · 04-07-2005, 11:16 PM

If you are converting from R-12 to 134a you will need to replace the accumulator. The desicant bag inside the accumulator will hold oil. Even after an evacuation some oil still remains. This oil is not compatible with the new PAG oils. So, after installing the new parts charge and add 4-6oz of oil. Good Luck.

454HO · 04-08-2005, 03:11 PM

You should really try and flush out as much of the old mineral oil as possible. You can get a can of stuff at the auto parts store called Kooler Klean for about $10. It is an aerosol can and should come with a short piece of clear tubing. You just attach it to the lines and flush, then dry it out with compressed air. And you should also replace the orifice tube, about $6. And of course any fitting you disturb, replace the o-ring with 134a compatible. Do you have a vacuum pump?

Frankd · 04-09-2005, 08:46 AM

I am using a new compressor so it is dry , cant drain it to find out jow much oil to install. don't have a vacuum pump - I hook to a vbacuum lint to the encine and run it to vACUUM THE SYSTEM

NeCrOmAnCeR · 04-10-2005, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frankd

don't have a vacuum pump - I hook to a vbacuum lint to the encine and run it to vACUUM THE SYSTEM

Don't quite understand what you are saying, sounds like you are connecting a hose to the intake manifold and running the engine to evac the system??

The purpose of drawing a vacuum on the system is to remove all the moisture (low absolute pressure causes water to boil). This requires nearly a perfect vacuum, a stock engine will not be able to achieve this, thus moisture remains causing freezing problems etc. At least take it to a shop to have them evac the system for you. It will allow the system to operate at its best and make you happier.

apstguy · 04-10-2005, 03:23 PM

I did my system last year - Replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube (I used a special $30 variable orifice valve worth the money!) You need to flush and vaccuum out they system. If you don't do that, your system will work inefficiently and/or die fairly soon. My system get cold fast - especially for a R134a retrofit.

odee · 04-10-2005, 10:18 PM

how about alittle info on the special orfice tube. Where to get it?

04-07-2005, 05:18 PM	#1
Frankd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mauk, Ga Posts: 76	replacing A'C compressor I'm cheating - I hav an 88 surburban 1/2 ton , it seems no one on the burb threads know the answer to my question. I have to replace my a/c compressor,am gonna use r-134. Does any one know how much of the special oil to use and wheree to put it? I've bought compressor, oil; and r-134 __________________ 72 c-10 81 c-30 67 c-10 just sittin in the woods) 70 C-10 " " " " to compleete frames 67, 70 - in woods 2002 toyota tundra. 12 yr old son has , 72 Charger, 78 Ramcharger and 85 ford wrecker

04-07-2005, 10:13 PM	#4
Frankd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mauk, Ga Posts: 76	thanks for the help, but I'm now confused- I'm just rreplacing the compressor, with a factory tye (autozone), __________________ 72 c-10 81 c-30 67 c-10 just sittin in the woods) 70 C-10 " " " " to compleete frames 67, 70 - in woods 2002 toyota tundra. 12 yr old son has , 72 Charger, 78 Ramcharger and 85 ford wrecker

04-08-2005, 03:11 PM	#6
454HO Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,224	You should really try and flush out as much of the old mineral oil as possible. You can get a can of stuff at the auto parts store called Kooler Klean for about $10. It is an aerosol can and should come with a short piece of clear tubing. You just attach it to the lines and flush, then dry it out with compressed air. And you should also replace the orifice tube, about $6. And of course any fitting you disturb, replace the o-ring with 134a compatible. Do you have a vacuum pump? Last edited by 454HO; 04-08-2005 at 03:13 PM.

04-09-2005, 08:46 AM	#7
Frankd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mauk, Ga Posts: 76	I am using a new compressor so it is dry , cant drain it to find out jow much oil to install. don't have a vacuum pump - I hook to a vbacuum lint to the encine and run it to vACUUM THE SYSTEM __________________ 72 c-10 81 c-30 67 c-10 just sittin in the woods) 70 C-10 " " " " to compleete frames 67, 70 - in woods 2002 toyota tundra. 12 yr old son has , 72 Charger, 78 Ramcharger and 85 ford wrecker

04-10-2005, 03:23 PM	#9
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,088	I did my system last year - Replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube (I used a special $30 variable orifice valve worth the money!) You need to flush and vaccuum out they system. If you don't do that, your system will work inefficiently and/or die fairly soon. My system get cold fast - especially for a R134a retrofit. __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

04-07-2005, 07:04 PM	#2
NeCrOmAnCeR Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Hodgenville, Ky Posts: 735	Is the replacement compressor a factory type? If so measure the ammount in the old compressor and add the same ammount to the new one. Then replace the accumulator and evac the system, hit it with an oil charge ( someone here should know the propper ammount for a 'burb) and then charge it up. Use a set of manifild guages to check for the propper fill. Good luck.

04-07-2005, 09:06 PM	#3
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	Total system without rear A/C 240ml - with rear A/C 330 ml. Compressor/new - drain and measure, if less than 30ml drained then add 60ml, if more than 30 ml drained add same amount. Accumulator/new - 105ml Evaporator/new - 90ml Comdenser/new - 30ml

04-07-2005, 11:16 PM	#5
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	If you are converting from R-12 to 134a you will need to replace the accumulator. The desicant bag inside the accumulator will hold oil. Even after an evacuation some oil still remains. This oil is not compatible with the new PAG oils. So, after installing the new parts charge and add 4-6oz of oil. Good Luck.

04-10-2005, 10:18 PM	#10
odee Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: big stone gap va Posts: 83	how about alittle info on the special orfice tube. Where to get it?



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.