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Old 07-27-2002, 10:12 PM   #1
Heavy-Chevy
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Exclamation 383!!!

good or bad?

What do you think about in a 4x4?
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Old 07-27-2002, 10:30 PM   #2
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I have a 383 HT crate motor from Chevy and it has good torque and does well on the highway also. I have about 3100 miles on it now and the motor is not broke in yet. It is getting as good of mileage as my 350 did and has a lot more power.
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Old 07-27-2002, 10:34 PM   #3
JIMs70GMC
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I wouldn't mind having one to put in my 4x4.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 07-27-2002, 10:52 PM   #4
crazy longhorn
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I have an edelbrock rpm topped 383 in the longhorn. It has a lot more grunt than a 355,& i dont notice a diff in milage either........well whats milage with 4.10 gears?
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Old 07-28-2002, 12:34 AM   #5
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I had a 383 in my 72 camaro before the blower engine and it did very well.

I have seen 383's built with 350 blocks and 400 cranks that make good low end power and keep most of the top end like a 355.(like my old motor in the camaro).

But I have also seen a 400 with a 350 crank and some bearing spacers/special bearings that made for a very high reving killer 383 combo.

If you use the 400 crank (which will need to be turned down to fit ) in the 350 block you will need to do some grinding on the block and rod bolts or get some special rods/bolts.
Then you can just get by with a little block grinding to clear.

But a 383 can make a good bit more torque over a 355 and be lots of fun to drive.

A long rod 383 can make even more low end in my opinion.
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Old 07-28-2002, 02:21 AM   #6
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i have never heard of a 383 out of a 400 block with 350 crank
can some one explain this one to me and
is it beter that a 400 sb
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Old 07-28-2002, 06:06 AM   #7
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Using the 400 block with 350 crank is actually a 377, not a 383. I honestly don't see why you'd do it unless you're running in a race series that won't allow 400 cubes but does allow 377. The 377 is the same principle as the 302, but bigger...short stroke with a big bore. Lots of high-RPM horsepower at the sacrifice of low-RPM torque. I can understand the 383 though, especially in a truck, because they're torque monsters and because 350 blocks are much easier to find than 400 blocks.
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Old 07-28-2002, 03:04 PM   #8
68 with 350 TPI
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You need to over bore the 400 with a 350 crank to get a 383 out of it.
As you also have to with a 350 and a 400 crank.

But like I said the 400 with a 350 crank makes a lot of high RPM power.

A 350 with a 400 crank makes a lot of low/mid range power
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Old 07-28-2002, 03:16 PM   #9
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A stand bore 400,with a 350 crank is a 372.......bored .030 is a 377. a standard bore 350, with a 400 crank is a 377, bored .030 is a 383. ..........Al also, doing a little math,it looks like a 400 with a 350 crank @ .060 over would be a 383.........thats a long way to bore a 400 block tho..........

Last edited by crazy longhorn; 07-28-2002 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 07-28-2002, 08:42 PM   #10
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A long stroke 350 (383 if the bore is 4.030, 377 if bore is std) has probably 10-15% more torque at any given rpm. It can also handle prox 10 degrees more camshaft duration than a 350. So, a cam that has a 2000-5000 rpm range in a 350 probably has a 1600-4600 rpm range in a 383. Be sure to use at least 2 1/4" dual exhaust, and DO NOT use stock 2" ram's horn manifolds. They'll act almost like potatos in the exhaust pipes.
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1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
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Old 07-28-2002, 10:33 PM   #11
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Wow!!

I have Hookers on it now. I need a 2.25"? Has anyone tried a "set"?

I am in need of some more tourqe in a werst way.

Would "fast burn" heads work with this?



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TRUCKS & Autos that run:

1972 GMC Sierra Grande 3/4ton LWB 4x4

1972 Chevrollet K/5 with a 6"Lift, 462 heads "money pit"

1988 K3500 Crew "Big Red" 4x4

PARTS OR PROJECT TRUCKS:

PARTS for sale or trade:


WANT :

1972 parts blazer/Jimmy parts truck

1967-72 Parts Chevy/GMC Truck

NEED stainless hubcap for 3/4ton GMC
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Old 07-29-2002, 10:53 AM   #12
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Hooker headers or mufflers? By "2-1/4" I meant exhaust pipe diameter. Header primary tube diameter of 1-1/2 or 1-5/8 will work for a mild 383.
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1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
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Old 07-29-2002, 01:08 PM   #13
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I have a 388 stroker (4.06 bore & 3.75 stroke) in my 4X4. Other than putting in a big block a stroked small block is your best bet for awesome torque and great HP. I am extremely happy that I decided to build one instead of just rebuilding the 350.....definately worth it!!

I have a parts list in Excel(*.xls) format if anyone wants to see it.
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