Alignment questions

[72BLAZERDUDE]

I am doing bags and drop spindles on the front of my 72 2wd Blazer and was wondering if I need to get longer upper a-arm mounting studs or am I going to be able to move the arm out far enough to get it aligned at ride height. Also is changing these studs a pretty easy job to do. And where would I get them from if I need to change them.

[laid67c10]

dunno for sure but i think you'd be fine, it shouldnt be too far off with a drop spindle....and aired up to ride height....

[Frank_Zeller]

You need to move the upper a-arms "closer" to the frame when you lower. So no need to get longer bolts.

A little more the 2 inches spring drop is all you can go before you get into front end alignment problems. This is with the stock A arm set up.

[72BLAZERDUDE]

I am not sure I understand. Wouldn't " closer " to the frame be opposite of what I want to do. I understand longer bolts which means more shims which means farther from the frame. Having not looked real close at a crossmember out of a truck is it not possible to space out the mounting plate. I know it is riveted to the top of the crossmember but can it be moved.

[Slammed67]

Yes, the upper a-arms need to move outward when a truck is lowered to get the camber right.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frank_Zeller

You need to move the upper a-arms "closer" to the frame when you lower. So no need to get longer bolts.

A little more the 2 inches spring drop is all you can go before you get into front end alignment problems. This is with the stock A arm set up.

This is correct for certain applications. However, for GM trucks 64-87, the a-arms usually require spacing outward to regain proper alignment specs after the suspension is lowered.

72Blazerdude, you should be fine w/the stock studs when using drop spindles + bags up front. Your estimated front drop will prob be around 5-6" @ ride height which is common even w/static drops. My 68 & 74 both utilize the stock length studs & both are static dropped 5-6" in the front.

[Frank_Zeller]

This has been my experience with my 69 SWB with 71-72 upper and lower A-arms. 2.5 inch drop spindles plus 2 inch drop springs with all ball joints and bushing replaced.

to get:

-0.25 chamber and 2 degrees caster

There is no shims in the front part of each a-arm front bolt

Two 0.125 shims on passenger side back bolt

Three 0.125 shims on the driver side back bolt

using the gauge like the one in this auction


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

[SCOTI]

I left out a key word so I edited my original post.

[Frank_Zeller]

I'm going to recheck my chamber and caster today. I bet the difference is in the spindles top ball joint hole location.

[Slammed67]

This is correct for certain applications.

True. My '56 Chevy wagon required moving the upper a-arm inward after I cut the coils. However, on those cars the studs face inwards so as you add shims, it pulls the a-arm inward.

[SCOTI]

After reading Frank Z's post I remembered a 66 truck I dropped for my old neighbor (using Turners stepped arms & 1 coil cut from stock springs). It required removal of front shims vs. the typical adding of shims.

I know the avg./typical truck drop will require spacing the arms out, but I guess some are different. Cars do require moving the arms inward because of the mounting orientation of the a-arms.