Gauges behind Bezel Install

[RON WOODGEARD]

I have had a lot of E-mails and P.M's on how to do this, So here we go.

First Off,,,,, This was not my idea !!! Thor50 who is/was a member of this board had his dash set up this way. Well as we do, we said show me yours, and I'll show you mine!! I was extremely impressed with the looks of this set up.. As most of you know, I'm not into stock, But this took a Stock appearance but yet the dependability, accuracy, and Racy look of Autometer. So I put it on my "TO DO" list. I hadn't planned on doing it at this time, But a few weeks ago I found out that Autometer is/has "discontinued" this size (3-3/8") in their line of Gauges. Now I had to put it up front.

All Gauges are Autometer, I don't know why another brand name wouldn't work as long as they are the same size as these.
The Speedometer is a "In Dash" 5", The Tachometer is a 5" Monster tach. I see no reason another 5" Autometer wouldn't work, Like the ones with The Shift Lights and Memory Built In.
The Center gauge is a 3-3/8" 5500 series. Like a 5505 for Oil Pressure, and a 5507 for a Water Temperature. I believe "if you can find one" the Fuel Level is 5514 for the 3-3/8" for G.M.

The Lower Four Gauges are all 2-5/8" There are a numerous number of different gauges you can have your choice of. I chose, Fuel level, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, and Volts.

Let's get to the install.

You will need to of course take the Gauge cluster totally apart. Seperate the stock gauges from the Mounting plates. Once everything is seperated, You'll need to remove some material from the Green inside metal piece, This piece is needed to Center and hold the 5" gauges in place. Not only remove metal from where the gauges go through it, But a piece all around the outside edge . This piece slides over the 5" gauges and is the main retainer. As far as the Larger 5" gauges go We get lucky here, They will "SLIP FIT" right into the holes that are there.. Very nice Surprise !!!!

The next thing I did, And it's not absolutely necessary, I trimmed the Bezel on the outside of the round holes where the gauges slip over. This allows the gauges to seat down a little more and puts the face closer to the face of the Bezel IE: easier to see. There is also a Gussett that needs to be removed.
This is the Gussett,

This is the material I removed to seat the gauges better,Look at the upper outside edge, of the small hole.


There is a lip on the outside of the 3-3/8" gauge, I trimmed some away from the hole opening of the center gauge to help this gauge center and remain there.


Here's the lip on the Gauge I was talking about (the silver outer)

[RON WOODGEARD]

Now you're ready to lay the gauges in. if you haven't opened up the openings in the green plate, you'll need to do it now. You will also have to remove some of the green piece where the lip was that rolled over the Bezel. This plate sits Over the larger gauges, and makes the edge stick out about 3/4" too much. I measured with a set of metal dividers the distance the piece was going to sip inside of the Outside metal retainer. And cut that amount off of the edge.( you'll see what I mean when you get here.) Just be sure to leave enough metal that when you Bolt the Outside piece on to the back, It seats down "TIGHT" against the outer edge of this green piece!!



Next you will have to get the back metal plate ready to slip over the gauges. This piece is what will hold the gauges tight into place.

There are plates that unbolt behind the Fuel Level Gauge, And the four small gauges at the bottom, ( or where 4 gauges can go) The back of where the speedometer went/goes and the part where the center gauge will go needs to be removed. This is a trial and fit step. And it depends on how neat you want the back to look, at how much time you're going to spend. I removed more then I needed to behind the speedo.



The next step is to lay the back plate on and bolt it to the Bezel.

[RON WOODGEARD]

Once the gauges are layed in place, and the rear plate is trimmed, You'll need to trim and drill holes in the small plates that bolt to the back. These plates are what actually hold the 4 gauges at the bottom in place.






You'll also see how I mounted the center gauge, I used the Aluminum mount that came with the gauge. I straightened, and cut it shorter, drilled two holes in it to screw it to the back plate.

Next is the Turn Signal "ARROWS" I cut the arrows out of the metal plate and reinstalled them like this.......


Here's the final wiring on the Cluster itself. I threw some masking tape on each wire, and wrote what it's for. for quicker reference when the dash is being set back in.. Notice that an Autometer gauge light goes where the factory twist ones went. ( another nice Surprise!)



And this is the Final finished project... At least on the bench. All that's needed now is to use a Multi-Meter to find the turn signals, and fuel level, at the plug which Used to plug into the back of the Cluster. I will cut these wires, and crimp ends on them to match the ends I installed on the wires coming off of the Cluster. I may post one more Picture of the cluster When it's installed.

[racedvl]

Originally Posted by 1-PU70

How a bout a pic of the front.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=110385

[krue]

Hey Shawn didja ever find the pics for the filler door thread?

[saxmo]

here are a couple of pix of mine. i wanna try and find a couple of the gauge hold down brackets for the bigger gauges with the 2 big screws (adds extra strength). I gonna get a new bezel, cause my white paint fish-eyed a bit.

[RON WOODGEARD]

Originally Posted by 72GMC51

Can you install a tach in the normal center position and leave the rest of the gauges in tacked, or will the printed circuit not allow this?
Could you repost the pictures.
Thanks
JC

Yes you could, If you put it through the front. I still have the old one I bought many years ago that I did this with..

I've found where I hid them on the net besides MYOLDTRUCK.com..

Most of them anyway, but they are out of order



Sorry for the problems guys..
Ron

[Putter]

I had a go at this also. Here is how mine turned out. Thanks to Ron for posting these instructions. They were worth GOLD!!!

[Dano69c10]

Nice job Putter, can you tell us the exact type of guages you used, PN#s elec or mech, series?

[Putter]

Let's see...
ALL GAUGES ARE AUTOMETER PRO-COMP

SPEEDO - 5" electric - part # 5189
TACH - 5" (non-memory) - Part # 5160
FUEL LEVEL - 2 5/8" (0-90 ohm) - Part # 5415
OIL PRESSURE - 2 5/8" electric - Part # 5427
VOLTS - 2 5/8" - Part # 5492
VACUUM - 2 5/8" (liquid filled) - Part # 5484
WATER TEMP - 3 3/8" mechanical Part #5507 **found on E-Bay Store called Deal-Monger Auto Parts (Covington, GA). Give them a call @ 678-342-6641

[shifty]

I have a question also, and maybe this is in another thread, I'm just not typing in the right words.

Are there any threads on how to restore the dash gauge housing and so on?

I look at other people's and they're all nice and chrome and mine doesn't have any chrome on it at all. What gives? Putter, yours has nice chrome trim rings and outer trim and all that...

I want a nice dash too!

[krue]

I am pretty sure all the vendors have gauge dash bezels in stock. Don't know of anyway to revive a crappy bezel.

[shifty]

Ah, so it's a bezel? Does it only come with tach dashes? My dash only has three holes - blinker/dummy lights, fuel level and speedo.

[Putter]

Right Krue. The gauges themselves (my Pro-Comps anyway) have a silver trim ring. The replacement bezel that I bought from Tim Christian is chrome with a black face.

[A few 72's]

Seen these at SCS in Memphis.
First two are of a glove box door that was used to mount the gauges.
Last two are of a firebird dash mounted behind a plexi-glass attached to the stock bezel.