one pc window kits? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

uk72step · 05-03-2005, 03:33 PM

Hello there,
I am probably about to purchase some new doors from classic industries.
Whilst doing this I have an option when rebuilding
a) go with the stock look and replace the vent windows
b) go with a one piece window kit.

Anyone got any experience here? Am looking to reduce windnoise etc as am rebuilding my truck at present it's much a muchness to me which way to go although unsure if I want to change the looks..
Anyone any experiences good or bad or any pics?

Cheers
Lee

GreyHoundSteve · 05-03-2005, 04:27 PM

no pics but i have the 1pc windows and they look great. Its not and easy install but its one you can do yourself. Ive heard that the kits are on back order for months so if you want one i'd get on it quick.

FirstGen · 05-03-2005, 05:02 PM

yeah if you find one in stock let me know. So far everyone I've talked to is backordered. I already tried, Mothertruckers, Brothers, & ECE...

longnlow72 · 05-03-2005, 06:05 PM

i have mine bit have yet to put it in, people say its pretty straight forward and not too hard

72MARIO · 05-03-2005, 10:20 PM

They are a time consuming install. Kinda involving. I think I would do it again. Kinda pricey by the time it get's there. Somthing to consider. You do have to remove the door from the cab or if you have the front clip off you can access the spot removing the door has got to be the biggiest bummer of the install if you truck is a daily driver.

Dont know what else to say. I have not driven it yet so I cant comment on the windnoise.

Mario

longnlow72 · 05-03-2005, 10:31 PM

im doing mine when i finish the body work on my doors but they are a spare set not on the truck

so everyone share your tips, experiences, etc

72MARIO · 05-03-2005, 10:36 PM

I posted a pile of help pointers a few days ago. I am too tired to find it. Mabye I will post it in the FAQ board. And everyone who has installed a kit can put there input in also. I have alot of little things to mention. But Later...

FirstGen · 05-04-2005, 12:33 AM

crazy, I didn't realize you have to pull the doors! what's up with that?

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 05-04-2005, 08:26 AM

Pulling the door is not required if you have a right angle drill and short bit. We cut a drill bit in half to clear, the bit only sticks out from the chuck 1 inch. In the instructions you have to drill a hole in the front of the door by the hinge to hold the window channel in place. Also you must cut your vent window channel from your old vent window to use as the new channel thus destroying your vent windows. I have already cut channels in stock for 10.00 each if you don't want to cut yours, on some trucks the door stop needs the nose of it ground down a little to clear the glass with the door shut, this requires pulling the top hinge to gring the nose. Also check your friction pads for a tight fit so the stop is not flopping around with the door closed. We (as well as BROTHERS) should have the kits back in stock next week and if anybody is interested you should get on the list with whoever you plan to purchase from.

mocwon · 05-04-2005, 05:14 PM

The instructions are quite good but a few notes should be added in my opinion:

For full restorations weld up the indented area that is left on the top edge of the inside of the door where the vent support was before it was removed (I missed this on mine)

For full restorations weld up the screw holes that are no longer needed (I managed to get all of these)

Cut the window scraper a little long so they are a tight fit since the back end has no clip for several inches (I think I'm going to install a small screw)

Be sure to test fit the corner aluminum piece before painting the truck since it WILL need grinding on the edges

Plan on using a small amount of windshield urethane on the aluminum corner piece before or after final installation to keep water and wind out.

05-03-2005, 03:33 PM	#1
uk72step outta the car velocityboy Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Scotland Posts: 112	one pc window kits? Hello there, I am probably about to purchase some new doors from classic industries. Whilst doing this I have an option when rebuilding a) go with the stock look and replace the vent windows b) go with a one piece window kit. Anyone got any experience here? Am looking to reduce windnoise etc as am rebuilding my truck at present it's much a muchness to me which way to go although unsure if I want to change the looks.. Anyone any experiences good or bad or any pics? Cheers Lee __________________ ..give it a turn here, take some wedge out there, we'll win some races...

05-03-2005, 05:02 PM	#3
FirstGen Just Don't Stop! Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas Posts: 1,239	yeah if you find one in stock let me know. So far everyone I've talked to is backordered. I already tried, Mothertruckers, Brothers, & ECE... __________________ 1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9"

05-03-2005, 06:05 PM	#4
longnlow72 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SW Washington Posts: 947	i have mine bit have yet to put it in, people say its pretty straight forward and not too hard __________________ 72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done...

05-03-2005, 10:20 PM	#5
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	They are a time consuming install. Kinda involving. I think I would do it again. Kinda pricey by the time it get's there. Somthing to consider. You do have to remove the door from the cab or if you have the front clip off you can access the spot removing the door has got to be the biggiest bummer of the install if you truck is a daily driver. Dont know what else to say. I have not driven it yet so I cant comment on the windnoise. Mario __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

05-03-2005, 10:31 PM	#6
longnlow72 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: SW Washington Posts: 947	im doing mine when i finish the body work on my doors but they are a spare set not on the truck so everyone share your tips, experiences, etc __________________ 72 Chevy lwb, cowl hood, shaved antenna, shaved bedrails, blazer tank, sidemarker fill, 1pc windows, flowmaster 40's, alpine deck, infinity 6x9's, infinity 4"ers, 2 jl audio 10w0's, grant wheel, keyless entry and alarm, more waiting to be done... Last edited by longnlow72; 05-03-2005 at 10:32 PM.

05-03-2005, 04:27 PM	#2
GreyHoundSteve Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: DFW TX Posts: 769	no pics but i have the 1pc windows and they look great. Its not and easy install but its one you can do yourself. Ive heard that the kits are on back order for months so if you want one i'd get on it quick.

05-03-2005, 10:36 PM	#7
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	I posted a pile of help pointers a few days ago. I am too tired to find it. Mabye I will post it in the FAQ board. And everyone who has installed a kit can put there input in also. I have alot of little things to mention. But Later... __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

05-04-2005, 12:33 AM	#8
FirstGen Just Don't Stop! Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas Posts: 1,239	crazy, I didn't realize you have to pull the doors! what's up with that? __________________ 1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9"

05-04-2005, 08:26 AM	#9
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	Pulling the door is not required if you have a right angle drill and short bit. We cut a drill bit in half to clear, the bit only sticks out from the chuck 1 inch. In the instructions you have to drill a hole in the front of the door by the hinge to hold the window channel in place. Also you must cut your vent window channel from your old vent window to use as the new channel thus destroying your vent windows. I have already cut channels in stock for 10.00 each if you don't want to cut yours, on some trucks the door stop needs the nose of it ground down a little to clear the glass with the door shut, this requires pulling the top hinge to gring the nose. Also check your friction pads for a tight fit so the stop is not flopping around with the door closed. We (as well as BROTHERS) should have the kits back in stock next week and if anybody is interested you should get on the list with whoever you plan to purchase from. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

05-04-2005, 05:14 PM	#10
mocwon Keep On Truckin' Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Buda, Texas Posts: 1,354	The instructions are quite good but a few notes should be added in my opinion: For full restorations weld up the indented area that is left on the top edge of the inside of the door where the vent support was before it was removed (I missed this on mine) For full restorations weld up the screw holes that are no longer needed (I managed to get all of these) Cut the window scraper a little long so they are a tight fit since the back end has no clip for several inches (I think I'm going to install a small screw) Be sure to test fit the corner aluminum piece before painting the truck since it WILL need grinding on the edges Plan on using a small amount of windshield urethane on the aluminum corner piece before or after final installation to keep water and wind out. __________________ Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... Last edited by mocwon; 05-04-2005 at 05:14 PM.



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