14 bolt ff disc brackets on my H052 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

RainFade · 05-07-2005, 12:55 PM

I'd asked some questions regarding doing rear disc brakes here and had seen some posts on pirate4x4 which gave me enough confidence to try it.
While I don't have the disc/disc combo valve on or plumbing finished it looks like 14 bolt disc brackets Do indeed work on the Eaton rears.

I forgot to mention on my quicky web page if your eaton has 1/2" studs you'll need to redrill for 9/16, luckily my 71 already had 9/16" studs.

I've got a few pictures and a parts list if anyone is interested.HERE

update:
Plumbed, bled and working.
Rears lock first on HARD stops, have adjustable prop valve on order for the rear circuit.
Otherwise it stops faster and straighter with firmer pedal than EVER

**Yukon Jack** · 05-07-2005, 12:57 PM

Awesome to see pics as proof - hmmmm, my K20 would like discs!

68w/sbc406 · 05-07-2005, 02:00 PM

sweet. i need to get off my @$$ and do the front disc on mine

Rod · 05-07-2005, 02:35 PM

Fine job.....makes me think about the sort of same deal to my 1 ton dually. I think it can be done similarilly also.

Big69C20 Toy · 05-07-2005, 05:13 PM

Rain... you didnt perhaps take some measurements on how everything fit up with dimensions etc did you? i'm currently wondering about this setup myself.

RainFade · 05-07-2005, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big69C20 Toy

Rain... you didnt perhaps take some measurements on how everything fit up with dimensions etc did you? i'm currently wondering about this setup myself.

No but I did trace the entire bracket with dimensions scribbled in and scanned it... wanted my brother to make some 1 piece spacers rather than the DOM tubing they provide. Would that help you any ?
Ended up using the tubing as the ID of the 1 piece spacers I had him turn was too small and my lathe is in mothballs D'OH !

drink2mny · 05-07-2005, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rod

Fine job.....makes me think about the sort of same deal to my 1 ton dually. I think it can be done similarilly also.

Not really!! Alot different..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...100#post944100

Good move on your part RainFade, having a one piece spacer made.
Hell of alot safer than the tubing spacers...

Rod · 05-07-2005, 11:52 PM

Looked at the site links in your sig and never noticed an Eaton dually set up...saw a 14 bolt or a eaton single wheel style...your site here link seemed to show a dually set up. Would you know if this is a legal modifiication to do to vehicles...are there any standards required for metal quality or such...and would the brackets just be available and then just grab everything else from a parts store perhaps locally. Are the rear calipers just caddy calipers that have emergency brake capabilites. Rotors just front dually ones perhaps?

drink2mny · 05-08-2005, 12:10 PM

First I'll apologize to RainFade. I think I inadvertantly hijacked your thread...
As a side note I took alook at their ebay auctions. apparently they are not direct bolt on.

Quote:

The DOM tube spacers may need ground slightly to gain proper clearance between rotor and pads.

This is why ours are a complete matched direct bolt on kit..No issues..

Rod I'll Pm ya with info..

RainFade · 05-08-2005, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drink2mny

First I'll apologize to RainFade. I think I inadvertantly hijacked your thread...
As a side note I took alook at their ebay auctions. apparently they are not direct bolt on.

This is why ours are a complete matched direct bolt on kit..No issues..

Rod I'll Pm ya with info..

No problem I was just wanting to let folks know that the 14 bolt brackets fit the Eaton in general and have NO vested interest in any vendor.

Their brackets were fine but their spacers were definitely ROUGH cut and needed filed to a nominal .75" length.

I will pull it back apart later and use 1 piece spacers after I have my bro turn some to the right size the tubing just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Had I stumbled into your kits before I did this piecemeal I may well have gone that route, unfortunately I didn't find your site until I had most of the stuff in hand.

drink2mny · 05-08-2005, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RainFade

Had I stumbled into your kits before I did this piecemeal I may well have gone that route, unfortunately I didn't find your site until I had most of the stuff in hand.

Well, Thank you..

But what you have done is something alot of the fellow board members could also do and is good on your part to show them..

The info is out there on the net...
Take it easy....

Big69C20 Toy · 05-08-2005, 10:05 PM

RainFade i'd be interested in those diagrams if you could, i'm looking at either making up some new brake setup or doing the conversion.
I'm thinking of perhaps swapping out axles for a newer version with locker and drum in hat so i'd have big new brakes and a parking brake...

Thanks much.
Greg

67-Cowboy · 05-10-2005, 08:54 PM

I sure would like to get a CAD drawing of those brackets, I think I could machine a set of those for my mud buggy !!!

RainFade · 05-16-2005, 02:09 PM

Just a quick update.
Ended up needing an adjustable proportioning valve (I was pretty sure I would)
After installing that, bleeding again, and dialing it in the results are ASTOUNDING.

If you have the need to go through the rears on your truck and dread spending the jack for the stock drum parts for your eaton I strongly recommend this mod.

4x4Poet · 05-17-2005, 03:55 AM

Besides the better stopping power and potential future drum parts savings, I think the convenience of changing brake pads without pulling the hub is another great advantage. Thanks for this thread.

I luv cool parts.

Edmond · 05-17-2005, 01:46 PM

Now this may seem like a dumb question, but on my Eaton HO52 the Drum is part of the hub, and I guess it was the same with your drums.
How do you put the Disc on where the wheels studs are?

I have been looking at the pictures up to a point that I completely don't understand it any more.
Please explain if you can, because this seems to be a good alternitive to my original Idea of swapping the axle for a Dana 60.
Thanks in advance.

Cya,
Edmond

**JIMs70GMC** · 05-17-2005, 02:19 PM

You have to press the studs out and then press the studs through the rotor and hub, just like the front 3/4 ton 4wds.

RainFade · 05-17-2005, 03:46 PM

Like Jim says you have to press out the studs. The studs are holding the drums to the back of the hubs.
I'd have photographed it but was FILTHY by that point and tired of running in to clean up enough to handle the camera

I didn't have my press out of storage yet so I just used a piece of brass round stock placed on the stud and the B.F.H. they tended to pop right out after a dozen good smacks or so each.

The rotors also go BEHIND the hubs held on by the studs.
You may need longer studs for some applicaations.
If your truck has 1/2" studs you'll have to drill your hubs to accept 9/16 studs, fortunately my 71 3/4 already had the 9/16 studs

Edmond · 05-17-2005, 05:40 PM

Thanks, seems logical once you know what it's all about

This is one upgrade I most definitely am going to do.

I have the 9/16" Lug Studs, are longer ones easy to get?

Cya,
Edmond

drink2mny · 05-17-2005, 05:43 PM

You shouldn't need to get longer studs.
The 9/16 will work for you.

Edmond · 05-17-2005, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drink2mny

You shouldn't need to get longer studs.
The 9/16 will work for you.

Great!! One less thing to worry about!

Cya,
Edmond

Edmond · 05-18-2005, 06:29 AM

By the way, did you re use your parking brake?
If yes, how did you connected the cable?

Thanks.

Cya,
Edmond

05-07-2005, 12:55 PM	#1
RainFade Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 215	14 bolt ff disc brackets on my H052 I'd asked some questions regarding doing rear disc brakes here and had seen some posts on pirate4x4 which gave me enough confidence to try it. While I don't have the disc/disc combo valve on or plumbing finished it looks like 14 bolt disc brackets Do indeed work on the Eaton rears. I forgot to mention on my quicky web page if your eaton has 1/2" studs you'll need to redrill for 9/16, luckily my 71 already had 9/16" studs. I've got a few pictures and a parts list if anyone is interested.HERE update: Plumbed, bled and working. Rears lock first on HARD stops, have adjustable prop valve on order for the rear circuit. Otherwise it stops faster and straighter with firmer pedal than EVER __________________ 71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes. My lame K20 page My lame Eaton disc brake page Last edited by RainFade; 05-10-2005 at 07:33 AM. Reason: typo..

05-07-2005, 12:57 PM	#2
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	Awesome to see pics as proof - hmmmm, my K20 would like discs! __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

05-07-2005, 02:00 PM	#3
68w/sbc406 Got Light Emitting Diode? Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newberg, OR Posts: 2,485	sweet. i need to get off my @$$ and do the front disc on mine __________________ 1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler

05-07-2005, 05:13 PM	#5
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	Rain... you didnt perhaps take some measurements on how everything fit up with dimensions etc did you? i'm currently wondering about this setup myself. __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

05-07-2005, 11:52 PM	#8
Rod Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Eastern - Manitoba Canada, Winnipeg Posts: 4,369	just brackets available? Looked at the site links in your sig and never noticed an Eaton dually set up...saw a 14 bolt or a eaton single wheel style...your site here link seemed to show a dually set up. Would you know if this is a legal modifiication to do to vehicles...are there any standards required for metal quality or such...and would the brackets just be available and then just grab everything else from a parts store perhaps locally. Are the rear calipers just caddy calipers that have emergency brake capabilites. Rotors just front dually ones perhaps? __________________ Senior active founding member. 70 3/4 ton GMC Suburban 4x4 250/4 spd. 71 1/2 ton Suburban Chevy 4x4, 350/350 72 Chev 1 ton tow truck 402BB w/Holmes 440 wrecker on propane 2005 FLSTSCI Harley Springer 85 FXSB Harley Lowrider 72 Triumph 650 Bonneville 5spd "Poor people don't have hobbies" Quote from wife.

05-07-2005, 02:35 PM	#4
Rod Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Eastern - Manitoba Canada, Winnipeg Posts: 4,369	Fine job.....makes me think about the sort of same deal to my 1 ton dually. I think it can be done similarilly also.

05-08-2005, 10:05 PM	#12
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	RainFade i'd be interested in those diagrams if you could, i'm looking at either making up some new brake setup or doing the conversion. I'm thinking of perhaps swapping out axles for a newer version with locker and drum in hat so i'd have big new brakes and a parking brake... Thanks much. Greg __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

05-10-2005, 08:54 PM	#13
67-Cowboy Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Salem, Oregon U. S. of A. Posts: 69	I sure would like to get a CAD drawing of those brackets, I think I could machine a set of those for my mud buggy !!!

05-16-2005, 02:09 PM	#14
RainFade Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 215	Just a quick update. Ended up needing an adjustable proportioning valve (I was pretty sure I would) After installing that, bleeding again, and dialing it in the results are ASTOUNDING. If you have the need to go through the rears on your truck and dread spending the jack for the stock drum parts for your eaton I strongly recommend this mod. __________________ 71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes. My lame K20 page My lame Eaton disc brake page

05-17-2005, 03:55 AM	#15
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Besides the better stopping power and potential future drum parts savings, I think the convenience of changing brake pads without pulling the hub is another great advantage. Thanks for this thread. I luv cool parts. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

05-17-2005, 01:46 PM	#16
Edmond Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 1,063	Now this may seem like a dumb question, but on my Eaton HO52 the Drum is part of the hub, and I guess it was the same with your drums. How do you put the Disc on where the wheels studs are? I have been looking at the pictures up to a point that I completely don't understand it any more. Please explain if you can, because this seems to be a good alternitive to my original Idea of swapping the axle for a Dana 60. Thanks in advance. Cya, Edmond Attached Images __________________ 1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands Last edited by Edmond; 05-17-2005 at 02:05 PM.

05-17-2005, 02:19 PM	#17
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	You have to press the studs out and then press the studs through the rotor and hub, just like the front 3/4 ton 4wds. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

05-17-2005, 03:46 PM	#18
RainFade Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 215	Like Jim says you have to press out the studs. The studs are holding the drums to the back of the hubs. I'd have photographed it but was FILTHY by that point and tired of running in to clean up enough to handle the camera I didn't have my press out of storage yet so I just used a piece of brass round stock placed on the stud and the B.F.H. they tended to pop right out after a dozen good smacks or so each. The rotors also go BEHIND the hubs held on by the studs. You may need longer studs for some applicaations. If your truck has 1/2" studs you'll have to drill your hubs to accept 9/16 studs, fortunately my 71 3/4 already had the 9/16 studs __________________ 71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes. My lame K20 page My lame Eaton disc brake page Last edited by RainFade; 05-17-2005 at 03:52 PM. Reason: more detail

05-17-2005, 05:40 PM	#19
Edmond Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 1,063	Thanks, seems logical once you know what it's all about This is one upgrade I most definitely am going to do. I have the 9/16" Lug Studs, are longer ones easy to get? Cya, Edmond __________________ 1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands Last edited by Edmond; 05-17-2005 at 05:41 PM.

05-17-2005, 05:43 PM	#20
drink2mny Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: spokane wa Posts: 2,189	You shouldn't need to get longer studs. The 9/16 will work for you. __________________ Support The Board



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05-18-2005, 06:29 AM	#22
Edmond Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 1,063	By the way, did you re use your parking brake? If yes, how did you connected the cable? Thanks. Cya, Edmond __________________ 1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands

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