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08-01-2002, 09:47 PM
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#1 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TN/VA
Posts: 6,388
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Brake Question?
Hey Slammed67 if your out there you should be able to answer this. Anyway does anybody know the best way to bleed a new system? I have the mytivac vacuum pump but still having problems one mintue I will have fluid coming out that nothing. I am confused but that is not saying much coming from me! LOL
 Were would you all start?????
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08-01-2002, 09:58 PM
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#2 |
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its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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I like to ravity bleed mine whae starting from a dry system. Just open up a couple bleeders, and keep an eye on the master while you crack open an adult beverage of choice. When you have steady fluid coming out, then do the other 2 wheels, then check the pedal. If it is spongey, get the little lady (or a kid) to pump them up while you spray DOT# all over you detailed chassis and face.
The air pockets you are getting is ormal. It is not going to all come out in a steady stream at first. Keep bleeding it. |
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08-02-2002, 11:22 AM
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#3 |
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Old Skool Club
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Best way to bleed the brake system, if you don't have a power bleeder, will take two people. Get a friend with whom you are able to communicate...i.e., both of you understand each other.
With all of the bleeders closed, AND with the reservoir topped-off and the cap on it, pump up the brakes as best you can (goal is a firm pedal). Then, press the pedal down and HOLD it down while the other person opens the bleeder that is NEAREST the Master Cylinder. When you get a steady stream of brake fluid from the bleeder, close it tightly. Then, go to the next nearest wheel. The order should be Left front, Right front, Left rear, Right rear. Repeat this process, periodically checking the master cylinder so you don't empty it out. Basically, the principle of hydraulics is this: You can't compress a liquid. So, sponginess indicates air. Your brakes won't work correctly with air in the lines/system. I guess gravity bleeders are okay, but I happen to prefer this method that I learned over 35 years ago. It worked then. It works now. Oh, if you have a power bleeder, then do it like you know how.
__________________
Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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08-02-2002, 10:04 PM
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#4 |
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Between Trucks...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 3,830
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i use one of those 1 person bleeder kits...
kicks a$$, only $5... i was under the impression that you started bleeding the valve furthest from the master cylinder, and then moved closer in...
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Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... 
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08-02-2002, 10:57 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Hampton, Ga, USA
Posts: 217
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I had a same symptoms bleeding new system with vacuum pump. Turned out to be a bad double flare, wasnt sealing. Small leak that I did not see because it was leaking on front cross member and not on floor.
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68 Short Stepside, 350, quadrajet, 700r4, 3:73 posi, power front discs, HEI, Factory Air, Tilt, Tach, accelerator cable instead of rod, sway bar. 96 Impala SS 97 Monte Carlo |
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08-02-2002, 11:01 PM
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TN/VA
Posts: 6,388
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Thanks Don. I will check it out I am still having problems.
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