Front Clip Removal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Purs · 05-19-2005, 02:19 PM

I've looked through several pages of the FAQ's and didn't find anything and since the search is still not functioning I'm posting. Can someone give me the rundown on removing my front clip (fenders and core support)? Is it very involved or very simple? I'm wanting to install my motor and trans together and thought this would make the job much less stressful. Thank you.

chickenwing · 05-19-2005, 03:02 PM

Think it is a bit much unless you plan on doing some major cleaning. If non-a/c it's pretty easy.

Remove radiator hoses, battery, remove harness from engine (starter/temp/coil), remove firewall harness to bulkhead connector, unbolt bulkhead connector and tiewrap harness out of way on driver fender. Unbolt rad. support bolts, remove ground strap at right front fenderwell to frame, unbolt fenders at cab.... Don't think I missed anything. Pick up and remove. Can do it with hood on but it is HEAVY. Easy 2 man job with hood off.

Solver · 05-19-2005, 04:27 PM

In case you miss them total bolts wise.
remove cowl - 2 front corner bolts 1/2" socket -10 screws(6 at cowl seal 4 by wipers - 2 bolts when doors are open 1/2" socket
have to remove cowl to get to
Fender 2 bolts each side back by the doors 9/16" socket
1 bolt each side under back lower corner each fender just in front of rocker panel 9/16 socket. have to crawl under and see from under.
1 bolt each side up inside of inner fender, bolts kind of to lower front of cab
lager bolt has big washer -- takes 5/8 socket
will probably have to remove the brace on drivers side inner fender down where the steering column goes through 2 or 4 1/2" bolts (otherwise wont clear steering column in removal of front clip)
then just 2 nuts on the radiator support large not sure what size maybe 11/16"
easier to do with hood off
If removing hood and issn't new paint spray some paint where the bolts screw into hood on hinges so when removed you will be able to see where bolts were lined up at (makes reinstall much easier)
4 -9/16" bolts
also all wiring and washer hoses as previously posted

Striker169 · 05-19-2005, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solver

In case you miss them total bolts wise.
remove cowl - 2 front corner bolts 1/2" socket -10 screws(6 at cowl seal 4 by wipers - 2 bolts when doors are open 1/2" socket
have to remove cowl to get to
Fender 2 bolts each side back by the doors 9/16" socket
1 bolt each side under back lower corner each fender just in front of rocker panel 9/16 socket. have to crawl under and see from under.
1 bolt each side up inside of inner fender, bolts kind of to lower front of cab
lager bolt has big washer -- takes 5/8 socket
will probably have to remove the brace on drivers side inner fender down where the steering column goes through 2 or 4 1/2" bolts (otherwise wont clear steering column in removal of front clip)
then just 2 nuts on the radiator support large not sure what size maybe 11/16"
easier to do with hood off
If removing hood and issn't new paint spray some paint where the bolts screw into hood on hinges so when removed you will be able to see where bolts were lined up at (makes reinstall much easier)
4 -9/16" bolts
also all wiring and washer hoses as previously posted

thats it! but what makes this a hard task is if none of it has ever been taken off and you have some rust its a ***** to take off all of the bolts some of them are going to be subborn I had to end up grinding off 4 of my bolts

cadiac · 05-19-2005, 05:05 PM

They covered it well but I didn't read all. Remove the wheels and tires, -I just pulled one 2 weeks ago. If you don't you will as it won't move far. Lower the jack so the rotors/drums are about at the floor, -EASY.

Purs · 05-19-2005, 05:16 PM

Good info. What about the bumper, does it have to come off?

cadiac · 05-19-2005, 05:28 PM

Maybe not, but you will have to lift that much higher to get over it, -obviously. Easy enough to try and pull bumper later.

Solver · 05-19-2005, 05:46 PM

If the bumper comes off easy (no rusted bolts) then remove it as it is very difficult to remove the clip up by the fender cups with it on!!!!

krue · 05-19-2005, 06:31 PM

You're going around your elbow to get to your thumb if you ask me. By the time you have the front clip off you could have your engine and tranny on the ground. Just remove hood and radiator. Buy an engine leveler for your hoist and pull that puppy out of there!

Maximum Overdrive · 05-19-2005, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krue

You're going around your elbow to get to your thumb if you ask me. By the time you have the front clip off you could have your engine and tranny on the ground. Just remove hood and radiator. Buy an engine leveler for your hoist and pull that puppy out of there!

I agree. If your having a problem with the hoist not lifting the motor and tranny high enough, take the tires off and lower the front end onto some 4x4 blocks.

kxmotox247 · 05-20-2005, 08:28 AM

Good thread!

Purs · 05-20-2005, 09:37 AM

Thanks for all the info guys. It took all of about 15 minutes, maybe 20 since I went ahead and took the bumper off. If I'd known how easy this was I would've done it a long time ago. As you can see I don't have alot of room to work. This is going to make putting my 496/TH400 combo in so much easier. It also made bleeding my brake system a breeze!

In all fairness to Krue and Maximum Overdrive, I should've mentioned that it wasn't the issue of the hoist not lifting the engine high enough, it was that it would be hitting the ceiling in my garage. Also, I already had the inner fenders out and the front tires off which simplified and sped the process greatly.

Thanks again everyone.

**PICKMUP** · 05-22-2005, 10:49 PM

You just don't want to pull the front clip if you have nice paint. It is going to chip & scratch the paint...even worse trying to put it back on.

krue · 05-22-2005, 10:55 PM

Not too mention all the fun of trying to align everything.

Purs · 05-22-2005, 11:23 PM

no problem with the paint, it was mostly original I think. And as far as alignment goes I had some small alignment issues anyway.

I finished the install of the engine a few hours ago (inside my garage). I could've never done it with the front clip on. My garage was built in the late 1930's so you can imagine my limited space. I'm going to do some wiring upgrades while I've got the front off too. So all in all I'm extremely pleased. I appreciate everyone's input. You guys are great.

milehightoyz · 05-23-2005, 12:03 AM

ouch thats a tight squeeze, my shop is 40x60 and i feel like i can barely breathe in it.....

kxmotox247 · 05-23-2005, 08:38 AM

Let's see a picture of that big ole' motor sitting in the frame now!

Purs · 05-23-2005, 04:04 PM

Ok.

kxmotox247 · 05-23-2005, 04:08 PM

Man that thing looks awesome sitting in there. I love the valve covers. Those cast covers look great on all the chevy motors! It just looks tough.

GloryHound · 05-23-2005, 06:28 PM

That looks great!! Need to post a sound clip of it running when your done. Nothing like the sound of well tuned chevy V8 muscle to get the heart pumpin'. And it's a Big Block, Bonus!!!

As far as garage space goes, can you ever have enough? Right now I have a little 20X24 which would be great! If the wife would not insist on having an indoor parking space for her truck. Maybe next summer I will be able to pour a pad and put up a 20X30 work shop just for me! All mine! Mine, Mine, Mine! Yes I was seeing a shrink, but he said I would not share my feelings with him. Mine Mine Mine! When or if your married and have a daughter (or any kids for that matter) you'll start to understand how important it is to have your space!

05-19-2005, 02:19 PM	#1
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Front Clip Removal I've looked through several pages of the FAQ's and didn't find anything and since the search is still not functioning I'm posting. Can someone give me the rundown on removing my front clip (fenders and core support)? Is it very involved or very simple? I'm wanting to install my motor and trans together and thought this would make the job much less stressful. Thank you. __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

05-19-2005, 03:02 PM	#2
chickenwing Lovin' Life in Miss.! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Puckett, Mississippi Posts: 1,937	Think it is a bit much unless you plan on doing some major cleaning. If non-a/c it's pretty easy. Remove radiator hoses, battery, remove harness from engine (starter/temp/coil), remove firewall harness to bulkhead connector, unbolt bulkhead connector and tiewrap harness out of way on driver fender. Unbolt rad. support bolts, remove ground strap at right front fenderwell to frame, unbolt fenders at cab.... Don't think I missed anything. Pick up and remove. Can do it with hood on but it is HEAVY. Easy 2 man job with hood off. __________________ The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!!

05-19-2005, 04:27 PM	#3
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	In case you miss them total bolts wise. remove cowl - 2 front corner bolts 1/2" socket -10 screws(6 at cowl seal 4 by wipers - 2 bolts when doors are open 1/2" socket have to remove cowl to get to Fender 2 bolts each side back by the doors 9/16" socket 1 bolt each side under back lower corner each fender just in front of rocker panel 9/16 socket. have to crawl under and see from under. 1 bolt each side up inside of inner fender, bolts kind of to lower front of cab lager bolt has big washer -- takes 5/8 socket will probably have to remove the brace on drivers side inner fender down where the steering column goes through 2 or 4 1/2" bolts (otherwise wont clear steering column in removal of front clip) then just 2 nuts on the radiator support large not sure what size maybe 11/16" easier to do with hood off If removing hood and issn't new paint spray some paint where the bolts screw into hood on hinges so when removed you will be able to see where bolts were lined up at (makes reinstall much easier) 4 -9/16" bolts also all wiring and washer hoses as previously posted __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

05-19-2005, 05:16 PM	#6
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Good info. What about the bumper, does it have to come off? __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

05-19-2005, 05:28 PM	#7
cadiac Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Wichita, Kansas 67212 Posts: 257	Maybe not, but you will have to lift that much higher to get over it, -obviously. Easy enough to try and pull bumper later. Last edited by cadiac; 05-19-2005 at 05:28 PM.

05-19-2005, 05:05 PM	#5
cadiac Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Wichita, Kansas 67212 Posts: 257	They covered it well but I didn't read all. Remove the wheels and tires, -I just pulled one 2 weeks ago. If you don't you will as it won't move far. Lower the jack so the rotors/drums are about at the floor, -EASY.

05-19-2005, 05:46 PM	#8
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	If the bumper comes off easy (no rusted bolts) then remove it as it is very difficult to remove the clip up by the fender cups with it on!!!! __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

05-19-2005, 06:31 PM	#9
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	You're going around your elbow to get to your thumb if you ask me. By the time you have the front clip off you could have your engine and tranny on the ground. Just remove hood and radiator. Buy an engine leveler for your hoist and pull that puppy out of there! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

05-20-2005, 08:28 AM	#11
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,396	Good thread! __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

05-20-2005, 09:37 AM	#12
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Success!! Thanks for all the info guys. It took all of about 15 minutes, maybe 20 since I went ahead and took the bumper off. If I'd known how easy this was I would've done it a long time ago. As you can see I don't have alot of room to work. This is going to make putting my 496/TH400 combo in so much easier. It also made bleeding my brake system a breeze! In all fairness to Krue and Maximum Overdrive, I should've mentioned that it wasn't the issue of the hoist not lifting the engine high enough, it was that it would be hitting the ceiling in my garage. Also, I already had the inner fenders out and the front tires off which simplified and sped the process greatly. Thanks again everyone. Attached Images __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted." Last edited by Purs; 05-20-2005 at 09:40 AM.

05-22-2005, 10:49 PM	#13
PICKMUP "Trucks with Class" Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA Posts: 8,126	You just don't want to pull the front clip if you have nice paint. It is going to chip & scratch the paint...even worse trying to put it back on. __________________ Email: frankeham@comcast.net Phone: 360-956-7170

05-22-2005, 10:55 PM	#14
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Not too mention all the fun of trying to align everything. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

05-22-2005, 11:23 PM	#15
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	no problem with the paint, it was mostly original I think. And as far as alignment goes I had some small alignment issues anyway. I finished the install of the engine a few hours ago (inside my garage). I could've never done it with the front clip on. My garage was built in the late 1930's so you can imagine my limited space. I'm going to do some wiring upgrades while I've got the front off too. So all in all I'm extremely pleased. I appreciate everyone's input. You guys are great. __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

05-23-2005, 12:03 AM	#16
milehightoyz AttentionDeficitDisorder Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: COLORADO Posts: 600	ouch thats a tight squeeze, my shop is 40x60 and i feel like i can barely breathe in it.....

05-23-2005, 08:38 AM	#17
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,396	Let's see a picture of that big ole' motor sitting in the frame now! __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com



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05-23-2005, 04:04 PM	#18
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Ok. Attached Images __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

05-23-2005, 04:08 PM	#19
kxmotox247 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Champaign, IL Posts: 1,396	Man that thing looks awesome sitting in there. I love the valve covers. Those cast covers look great on all the chevy motors! It just looks tough. __________________ Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com

05-23-2005, 06:28 PM	#20
GloryHound Working on a Nova. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: ## Posts: 506	That looks great!! Need to post a sound clip of it running when your done. Nothing like the sound of well tuned chevy V8 muscle to get the heart pumpin'. And it's a Big Block, Bonus!!! As far as garage space goes, can you ever have enough? Right now I have a little 20X24 which would be great! If the wife would not insist on having an indoor parking space for her truck. Maybe next summer I will be able to pour a pad and put up a 20X30 work shop just for me! All mine! Mine, Mine, Mine! Yes I was seeing a shrink, but he said I would not share my feelings with him. Mine Mine Mine! When or if your married and have a daughter (or any kids for that matter) you'll start to understand how important it is to have your space!

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.