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Old 05-29-2005, 10:51 PM   #1
Green Machine
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Has anyone done the cab mount shufffle ? Gonna pull my hair out !!!

Ok - here we go- started with bare cab on frame, put in new stock cab mounts, no extra shims, squared and measured with frame. Put on doors and got adjusted nice. put on rad support, hung fenders, door - fender gap too large at top, ok no problem, removed stock 68 type washer/rubber rad mouts and replaced with 1970 type, went front 3/8 to 3/4 tall on front. That fixed fender problem. Aligned whole front end, adjusted hood etc. Put on box, Had to shim rear of cab for alignment, use jack again etc. That threw of fender gap so shim front mounts. check front bumber for aligment. Now with thicker rad mounts, grill is to high, removed rad mountsand put in originals, fender gap screwed up again, removed front cab shims , back on flat again, now door don't fit right, front cab mounts need to be lower, but can't go lower, rear of cab lines up well with bow and bumper fits grill but the midlle is all fu@@ked up now. at front fenders measure same distance from frame but fan does not sit in middle of shroud, This is just a summary, Ive had the mounts apart so many times that the locking nuts are wore out Also hood seems to have more curve (hump) that the fenders do ???

AAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH
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1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
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Old 05-29-2005, 11:10 PM   #2
86SILVERADO
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Don't worry man I feel your pain. Only thing I can think of off the top of my head is when I went through all that I got to the bumper and had the same prob with it interfering w/bottom of grill. I finally realized that it was only because I had installed the top bolts and snugged them up. What that did was tilt the bumper back and up and make it look like there was no way it was going to work but when I put the bottom bolts in and snugged them up the top of the bumper was pushed out again and cleared the bottom of the grill just fine. just a thought.
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Old 05-29-2005, 11:39 PM   #3
Green Machine
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Double checked the bumper thing, that fits OK, anyone need an expensive parts truck ??? I'm ready tohaul to the junk....................
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103
1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
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Old 05-30-2005, 12:16 AM   #4
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It sounds like you were just about there until you shimmed the rear of the cab up. What alignment problem were you trying to fix when you shimmed the rear of the cab up? That's where you lost me.

Maybe the curvature of the hood doesn't match the curvature of the fenders because the fenders are being forced into an unnatural position because the cab and radiator support are not in the correct positions relative to each other?

If the gap between the fender and the door gets wider as it goes up, you have to do one of three things.
1) Raise the back of the cab
2) Lower the front of the cab
3) Raise the radiator support.

Personally I find it easiest to do the shimming at the radiator support instead of the cab, unless a whole lot of adjustment is needed.
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Old 05-30-2005, 12:36 AM   #5
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Tried to get cab body line to line up with box, rear of cab was too low, shimed pass side about 1/8 and driver side about 1/4, also i'm using some pos aftermarket fenders rad support and inner fenders, tri-plus something , don't fit for sh1t, fender nose is too long, had to use a turnbuckle betwenn two bolt holes on the "C" shped opening arounf headlights and pull in about 1/4 to 3/8, bottom of fender and top di not have straight line untillI did that, had to beatnose down with rubber hammer so it would somewhat resemble curve on hood, inner fenders are a jole and rad support had to lengthen most bolt hole cause the were off or had no adustment. Floor patchpanels were a joke too.What a mess. More wasted hours than I can imagine and I'm pretty good mechanic too. Guess I'm going to pull off those fenders and try my oreiginals for fit, they are fixable, just wanted to avoid the hassle and expense of fixng them, get I'll have the expense of new fenders, the ahssle of fitting the pos, the expense of fixing the old ones, fitting it all again, the fun and expense never ends............. not to mention one bodyman scwed me out of $1400, number two strung me one for three months before he said couldn't do it number 3 left it sit for six months and then hurried and kind of half assed the cab, least hes somewaht competent, Just my dad's truck that we've had sinch 1974, nothing important
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103
1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0

Last edited by Green Machine; 05-30-2005 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:04 AM   #6
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Sounds like a nightmare. I was considering buying a pair of Tri-plus fenders. Some boardmembers have said that the newer ones fit pretty well. Based on what you're saying, maybe not. How long ago did you buy the fenders?
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:16 AM   #7
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Bought fenders last november, heard the were retooled about 2 years ago, hate to see what the previous one wer like, don't do it,fix your old fenders, the inners can be persuaded to fit and I can live with the rad support, I will see how the old ones fit tommorow. I know where you canget a pair cheap....
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103
1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285
1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894
2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:19 AM   #8
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All I can say is you're not a very good salesman
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