Older Engine Oils

[nroden]

In the last couple of weeks I have heard a commercial or two for engine oil that is made for older engines. I dont remeber the brand (s). Do you?

Are these any good? Right now I am just useing regular old Penzoil 10w-30.

Is any of AMSoils products any good for older motors? I have heard that synthetics sometimes leak while regular oils won't. Just wondering because my grandparents sold AMSoil and still have much of their products left in their basement.

[JHickson6]

Valvoline and Quaker State are the two companies, Had a buddy who used the valvoline in a leaky 89 Z24 oil consumption went down and slowed a few of the leaks. Quaker State as a rule is a detergent oil that is a little harsher on an engine (not much, don't worry!). Pennzoil and Quaker are the same company but the oils are different, same as with Valvoline and Texaco. Most aren't really worth the expense. Stick with the Pennzoil! Oh yah all of the Wal-mart house brand oil was rebottled Esso products, well at least in Canada. Wal-mart and Canadian tire, have the same rad fluid, windshield fluid, but Wal-marts prices are way better.

Ya, I used to work in the Wal-mart automotive.

That's all you ever wanted to know about Wal-mart!

JHickson6

[low 84]

i'm running 10w-40 valvoline max life. seems to work pretty good. suposed to condition old seals and stuff like that but no way for me ot prove it.

[nroden]

Penzoil I guess if offering a 75,000 + engine oil now. But I dont believe they sell the special ATF fluid also like Valvoline does.

[nroden]

Could always go to Dollar General and get the stuff for 75 cents a quart. 50 cents for the lawnmower oil.. LOL. not really

My grandpa ran Farmland 10w40 in this thing for years because its what the station sold (and still does). All my filters had been changed there back when my grandpa had it and they were all Farmland labeled.

[67_SS396]

This is just my opinion from my experiences. Quit running Penzoil. That stuff is horrible for an engine, in my opinion. I have torn apart many engines that ran penzoil and they have been so gummed up with sludge especially when compared to Tropartic, Castrol or Valvoline. I personally dislike Valvoline, love Tropartic, which I can't find anymore, Wally World used to carry it. So now I run Castrol and have zero sludge in any of my engines. Even the 115K Nissan 4 banger that has had it's a$$ rode hard since day one. I had an old 307 that after a fresh rebuild had nothing but Tropartic run through it, and at 150K it had zero sludge build up. Once again, my opinion from my experiences.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

I have used Valvaline 10w40 in a lot of applications and it works very well over time. I have an "old" engine in my commuter car with 223,000 miles on it and I change oil every 5,000 miles. It does not use oil yet and I would not consider buying a different oil to run in an "old" engine, (defined as having over 75,000 miles on them).

There are a lot of good oils made now days and most meet or exceed the SE ratings for engines. In my experience, mixing brand oils is not a good practice and it is best to pick a good brand and stay with it. Regular oil and filter changes are key to good engine life because the additives in oil deplete and dirt accumulates over time.

Jim

[mikep]

I'm going to ditto that Penzoil eval. The stuff is horrible. I dont know how many engines Ive torn apart and been faced with a half an inch of crap over everything. Its that high parafin pennsylvania crude stock they use . YUCK !

Ive been using 5W40 shell synthetic oil just because I get it for $11 a gallon. I change oil every 4000 miles . Filters I change every 2000 rain or shine. I wouldnt use synthetic on an older engine though unless its one of the blends designed for that use as it tends to find weakneses in your engine seals.

[palallin]

Originally posted by JHickson6
Wal-mart and Canadian tire, have the same rad fluid, windshield fluid, but Wal-marts prices are way better.

JHickson6

Are those prices in US Dollars, Canadian Dollars. or Canadian Tire Dollars?

[68 with 350 TPI]

Mobil one synthetic, regular mobil , valvaline, and castrol are all good oils and I like them in that order.

They all hold up to heat and have a high shear factor.


I think the worst is the quakerstate junk.
I have pulled engines apart that ran that stuff that you could not clean out whn the block was hot tanked!

But as a general rule if the oil/filter is changed every 3,000 miles or when it starts to get dark in color you should have no problems.

[Palf70Step]

My preferenceis the Castrol. Most of my older vehicles use Castrol 20/50. Have loved it for years.. The newer car gets the recommended weight 10/30, but castrol again. I think most are good and mostly believe you should remain constant with brand and weight. Maybe old wives tale, but it seems to work for me.

[Project1970]

I've tried Valvoline Max-Life 20w50 in my truck for the past two changes, but I honestly don't notice much in the way of a difference in consumption. I'll go back to either standard Mobil or Valvoline next change.

However, once I get a new / rebuilt engine in it, it will be absolutely nothing but Mobil1 Synthetic every 5000 miles.

The way I see it, GM puts it in their Corvettes, and Mercedes-Benz and Porsche both put it in all of their cars...and both Mercedes-Benz and Porsche allow oil and filter change intervals as long as 15,000 miles on vehicles equipped with sensors. If they're willing to wager that kind of warranty money by stretching oil change intervals, the stuff has to work better...and I haven't ever seen proof otherwise, all three of our vehicles that have run synthetic, changed every 5000 since new (1994 Z28 - 80,000 miles, 1997 Suburban - 92,000 miles, 1997 Mercedes-Benz - 65,000 miles) still don't leak or burn a drop, and the oil still comes out almost as clean as it went in.

[Stano]

Well I am gonna stake a stand for Penzoil. My dad has ran it for years in his work truck that doesn't see on time oil changes. Keep in mind he puts 150-200,000 miles on these engines in a matter of just a few years 3+, and the truck is loaded. These are O'reillys rebuilds no less. The only one I have had to tear down for repair was just a month or so ago for a head gasket. 48,000 miles and still looked new inside. I have taken several of his other engines and put new gaskets in them and run them in drivers all were clean and no gunk. In fact I have 45-50,000 on the engine in my 67 I just built and I took pieces in to work to prove to the guys that I didn't have junk in it from the oil. We run engines hard and all so if oil was gonna gunk up I would think it would in our motors. I just saying we've had good luck. I am sorry for those who haven't.

[68 Stepside]

I would also have to agree with the pennzoil foes here. That stuff is garbage.

My friends 68 malibu had 101,000 miles on the engine, when it went kaput....I couldn't believe the sludge in that thing....it was terrible.

All I've ever used in anything has been coastal (it's dirt cheap). I even used it in my 380 HP Camaro. I've had nothing but good luck with it, I put 30,000 miles on that camaro in a year and a half, pulled the valve covers, and everything looked new. (It was ridden very hard).

Anyways, enough rambling from me. Don't use pennzoil!

TJ

[nroden]

I wonder if the special ATF for older transmissions is any different either (Valvoline)... what kinds do you all think is best? Might as well go into that to.
While we're at it lets to Anti-Freeze and brake fluids. They're making the antifreeze for older vehicles.

Once upon a time I heard that ATE Super Blue Racing/ATE TYP 200 were the best brake fluids along with Valvoline Suppower.