Stepside Wood

[75stepside]

Well guys, my truck is falling together by the day... will be ready for a show in about 4 weeks and i'm getting pumped. I just ordered the oak for the bed floor and was wondering if anyone has ever finished their stepside wood? I know you can buy kits, but $400 is a lil pricey - I should be able to do mine for about half...

I have all polished stainless strips from www.mar-k.com to use, but was mostly wondering the best way to cut the offset holes, and the grooves on the edges of each board???

[Paso76GMCstepper]

For the edges I would use a router table with the correct bit. I think its a 1/4 bit. That will route out that groove and will be safe.

[pedrofixlater]

I did mine, I bought the wood from LOWE's I had a friend do the routing for me
the off set holes should be on the second board in from the outside edge. Remember the two outside boards go under the bed. I mounted the two outside boards then put the bed on the frame the cross sills will show correct line up. I marked the holes took them off and drilled. I used Pine so the offset washers sunk into the wood when tightening. The biggest problem with the whole project is the boards you get from hardware stores is a little thick they need to be plained down 1/8 inch. thats is why the wood bed kits are so expensive. I didn't realize the thickness problem until the bed bolts were a little short.

[boxrodz]

I guess that means that we will be seeing some cool pics in 'bout 4 weeks.

What do you have as far as power tools? You may reach the $400 mark, if you need to buy good quality power tools (Porter Cable, Boesh, DeWalt, etc) with the proper blades and bits. But, you'll always have them for other uses. If you don't have the tools, you could also purchase lesser quality tools. But, I would stick with quality blades and bits.

Before starting, I would lay the planks out and try to obtain some grain pattern across all the planks as they would lay in the bed. Then,

If you have a table saw, you could rip the oak planks to width with a fine-tooth blade. If you have a circular saw, you could rip the planks to width with a straight edge clamped down as a guide. (You could possibly use one of the polished SS strips as a guide. I'd tape up the edge of the strip to prevent from marring it.) If you use a good quality fine-tooth blade, you'll get a real clean cut which is required for clean, straight grooves.

For the grooves, you could use a dado blade in a table saw. But, I would use a router with a 1/2" shank rabbit bit or a dado bit depending on the offset that you need. You could go with a 1/4" shank if you make much smaller passes. CMT and Jasada both sell high quality bits.

For the recessed holes, I'd use forstner bits of the proper diameter in preferrably a drill press. You can use a forstner bit in a hand power drill if you can keep it perpendicular to the working surface. Freud makes a decent forstner bits.

For finishing, you could stain the planks with a good quality stain to compliment the truck's color and bring out the grain of the oak or simply use linseed oil as a natural finish. Then finish it off with a polyurethane for a durable finish or a lacquer/vanish/shellac for a classic finish. Here's a brief guide to wood finishing. Block sanding prior to finishing will improve the look. If you use poly, you could also sand and polish it to make it glass smooth. Or, french polish it if you go with the shellac.

OR ... you could go the route of the woodworker traditionalists like Roy Underhill and use nothing but traditional hand tools. No power tools allowed.

But, seriously sounds like a cool project.

[75stepside]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

I guess that means that we will be seeing some cool pics in 'bout 4 weeks. ...But, seriously sounds like a cool project.

well man, its been a long time coming! ya, i'm just putting finishing touches on it... the interior is in (sorry, no pics yet!) and i'm working on getting the evap box on the firewall done... i put an optima red top under the hood and things are shaping up nicely... the wood is ordered for the bed and the appointment is set to get the exhaust bent... tires come in this week, front end is dropped 2" and the rear is next...

all for a show on 07/24/2005...

but, i'm trying to get a feel for drilling those offset holes. a friend of mine is a carpenter and has all the tools of the trade... he'll probably know, but i wanted to have a game plan from experience! (only found on this board, of course!)

[boxrodz]

Sounds like your very close. Sweet.

As far as the recessed holes go, I would follow the procedure that pedrofixlater mentioned. Cut and route the two end planks and the two adjacent planks that required the countersink holes and then place them and the SS strips in position with the bed. You can then mark the 8 recessed holes on the planks from the underside. You can transfer the markings to the topside of the planks or use a very small bit to first drill the holes. Drilling the recessed holes with forstner bit prior to drilling the bolt holes is probably best. Using a forstner bit gives a very clean countersink over a hole saw. Size the forstner bit just beyond the diameter of the bolt head. Oak unlike pine is a hardwood, so it shouldn't compress significantly when tightened.

What 'bout varying the width of the planks instead of ripping them all equal widths, but keeping them symmetrical between the leftside and rightside planks? And, what 'bout branding your signature on the rear of the middle plank?

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by 75stepside

...

but, i'm trying to get a feel for drilling those offset holes. a friend of mine is a carpenter and has all the tools of the trade... he'll probably know, but i wanted to have a game plan from experience! (only found on this board, of course!)

Hey 75stepside,
Did you catch 'Trucks' this past weekend? They ran through a wooden bed/SS bed strips conversion on a late model give-away Chevy. Anyway, I found some detail info on wood plank dimensions on the Mar-k site. They also have some guidelines for wood finishing.

[75stepside]

oddly enough, i DID see that segment... that kit seemed real nice...

i dropped my oak off to have it cut to length, and the channels cut into the boards. it will be ready to finish and drop in this upcoming weekend. i'm trying to figure out this week, what product i want to use to seal the stuff up... we'll see!

tks for the followup!

[87 STEPPER]

I done my own planks about 10 yr's ago i cut the channles using a dado blade set up in a arm saw and ripped them thru i used a practice plank to get the right depth of the groove i used frostner bit to cut the 1/8" countersunk hole i forget what the diameter is but i think it's 1 3/4".

To get the offset correct i placed the plank into position in the bed and smacked the plank with a big compathane hammer to make an impression on the back of the wood and then i removed the plank and drilled the off set hole with a wood hole saw i think it was 1/2"

As for finishing i left my wood natural oak as in no stain color you may want to use a color so thats an extra step but i sanded all the planks to a real smooth finish using a makita orbiter hand sander then i just preped them for clear.

I used a high quality polyurathane clear coat dont remember what brand but it was one of the top names i got it at homo depot and i just follow the Mfg. directions for application.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by 87 STEPPER

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I used a high quality polyurathane clear coat dont remember what brand but it was one of the top names i got it at homo depot and i just follow the Mfg. directions for application.

How's your finish holding up? I understand that a marine spar urethane works well to protect the wood against the elements.

[tgh117]

I used sikkens wood coating in my floor, only coated it twice in the 11 years its been in the bed, and its held up very well. My neighbor has 2 hudson show trucks and he uses some wood boat varnish and wax on his and they look excelent.

[87 STEPPER]

Originally Posted by boxrodz

How's your finish holding up? I understand that a marine spar urethane works well to protect the wood against the elements.

Well for 10+ yr's old theres a few spots that need some attention but its still in pretty good condition but my truck has been kept inside for about 8 of the 10 yr's.

Iv'e been thinking of redoing the wood but the next time im gonna use something else cuz every one has oak and i want something no one else has!

But i just dont know what i want to use!

[75stepside]

Originally Posted by 87 STEPPER

Iv'e been thinking of redoing the wood but the next time im gonna use something else cuz every one has oak and i want something no one else has! But i just dont know what i want to use!

i was going to go w/ wormy chestnut and had some lined up, but it just didn't come together... the oak came together so much easier - tryin to get geared up for this upcoming show!!!!

just heard from my wood guy today, the planks are done, we just gotta drill some holes this weekend, once we line up the bed... i'm excited!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 87 STEPPER

I got it at homo depot and i just follow the Mfg. directions for application......

Is that like a hardware store for gay guys???? Sorry I didn't mean to jack the thread, but that caught my attention and I thought it was funny....

[87 STEPPER]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Is that like a hardware store for gay guys???? Sorry I didn't mean to jack the thread, but that caught my attention and I thought it was funny....

LMAO! Ken...Im not shure really thats just my nic name for it i do that with alot of places and things like Lowes is Blows.

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by tgh117

I used sikkens wood coating in my floor, only coated it twice in the 11 years its been in the bed, and its held up very well. My neighbor has 2 hudson show trucks and he uses some wood boat varnish and wax on his and they look excelent.

Got any pics of your bed. Maybe some of your neighbors hudsons.

Originally Posted by 75stepside

i was going to go w/ wormy chestnut and had some lined up, but it just didn't come together... the oak came together so much easier - tryin to get geared up for this upcoming show!!!!

just heard from my wood guy today, the planks are done, we just gotta drill some holes this weekend, once we line up the bed... i'm excited!

Wormy Chestnut would have been really unique. I'm sure the oak will turn out well. Let us know how it turns out.

Originally Posted by 87 STEPPER

Well for 10+ yr's old theres a few spots that need some attention but its still in pretty good condition but my truck has been kept inside for about 8 of the 10 yr's.

Iv'e been thinking of redoing the wood but the next time im gonna use something else cuz every one has oak and i want something no one else has!

But i just dont know what i want to use!

Thanks for the reply.

To be different, you probably have to go with an exotic wood.

[tgh117]

I can tell you one thing not to do in a rush, edge paint the bed, and finish the wood at the same time, then go and place the wood in and install everything, then plastic over the top of the bed to seal in the finish fumes, then go and paint the outside of the bed, then after you finish painting, tear a whole in the plastic so you can see the whole thing done, then go home for the night and come back the next day with fish eyes all over the paint on the outside of the bed. That is what happened to me, and I paid the price of 6 hours worth of wet-sanding it all out after that the next day. So the moral of the story is, don't rush it. I will try and get picks of the neighbors trucks, he always leaves them outside during the day, so it shouldnt be too hard, and I will see if I can snap a few of my truck, its pretty clean now, so its probably a good time.

[MAR-Ktech]

Stepside, we just put up a short instruction with pictures that shows a way to locate and drill the bed to frame holes in your bed wood. www.mar-k.com/drilling_mounting_holes.html should connect to it, just select the one that says 1/2" bolts with offset washers.
Mar-K

[75stepside]

Originally Posted by MAR-Ktech

Stepside, we just put up a short instruction with pictures that shows a way to locate and drill the bed to frame holes in your bed wood. www.mar-k.com/drilling_mounting_holes.html should connect to it, just select the one that says 1/2" bolts with offset washers.
Mar-K

wow, you guys are actually guys! welcome aboard! i got my wood all done this past weekend... just have to get it installed this upcoming weekend... cant wait to see it all in there... i'll have a great pic for the cover of your next catalog!

[tgh117]

It just so happens the wood and strips in the bed of my truck are from Mar-K ten or so years ago, and its held up well, I will get some pics tonight if the rain holds off, wouldnt want to get the truck dirty.

[cliffsta]

So like, am i gonna get laughed at because i'm gonna go with pine like stock? It may not be as strong as oak, but we're gonna treat it and seal it so it'll last a while.

Man you guys got some fine looking beds! I can't wait to get unpoor and do mine!

[boxrodz]

Originally Posted by MAR-Ktech

Stepside, we just put up a short instruction with pictures that shows a way to locate and drill the bed to frame holes in your bed wood. www.mar-k.com/drilling_mounting_holes.html should connect to it, just select the one that says 1/2" bolts with offset washers.
Mar-K

Cool. Thanks for the post as well.

Originally Posted by tgh117

It just so happens the wood and strips in the bed of my truck are from Mar-K ten or so years ago, and its held up well, I will get some pics tonight if the rain holds off, wouldnt want to get the truck dirty.

Sounds good.

Originally Posted by cliffsta

So like, am i gonna get laughed at because i'm gonna go with pine like stock? It may not be as strong as oak, but we're gonna treat it and seal it so it'll last a while.

Man you guys got some fine looking beds! I can't wait to get unpoor and do mine!

Nothing wrong with pine. It's not as durable as a hardwood and have not much grain but you can make it work and look descent with the right finish. I wonder what a cabinet-grade sheet of oak plywood what look like as a bed floor. Dado some grooves in it, add a finish and some smooth SS strips. It may work out cheaper than pine.