02-03-2005, 03:52 AM | #1 |
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air line routing
Going to be installing bags in a week or two and was wondering how to route my front air lines from the top of the bag, drill some holes or what? Pics would be great
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2014 GMC Yukon XL (Wifey's) 2004 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 |
02-04-2005, 12:22 PM | #2 |
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I would like to know more about this as well. By the end of the month I hope to have my front suspension completed, and I know the air lines need to be routed out of the crossmember. I'm interested as to where everybody else has their lines exiting, and the pros/cons.
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02-04-2005, 03:34 PM | #3 |
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I put a 90 degree fitting in the bag, and facing it towards the back of the truck I drilled a hole in the crossmember. Don't forgot to put a grommet wherever the airline passes through metal or may be cut or knicked.
Now for Pros and Cons. My tank is in the bed so the airline comes out the bed floor and goes straight to the valve under the floor of the truck. From there it goes straight to the fitting in the bag. The is a good setup b/c I have 1/2 line and it doesn't bend very well. I have three turns on my way to the front bags. A 90 fitting in the tank, a turn under the bedfloor, and a 90 in the bag. I wanted it to be as fast as I could get it while still running the Big Red valves from Air-Ride. The more turns, the slower. And this is why my valves are under the floor. That means there is 160ish psi under the floor so when the valve opens the air goes straight about 2 feet then makes one turn into bag. Pretty quick. On the back, its pretty much the same except the valve is 7.25 inches from the bag. So its pretty quick. Those are mostly pros, so for cons here we go. Bigger line is a pain in the you know what. It doesn't bend, and likes to kink. If it kinks on you, get rid of that peice because you've created a weak spot. Mounting the valves at all four corners can be a wiring nightmare for a novice. Air Ride sends you a harness designed for mounting the valves together in a "manifold." But me being me, I couldn't have it that way so I basically made 4 harnesses one to go to each valve. So to talk about my set-up. Its pretty quick, not too fast where it can't be finelly adjusted, but you have to have a feel for it, or you'll over shoot your presssure mark every time, going up or down. As for dumping, the closer the valve is to the bag, and the less bends the faster. Also please keep it away from the exhaust. I say if you have to be closer than 7-8 inches at one point wrap that part of the exhaust with header tape. The last you want is to blow a line. And also be sure to check all your lines and fittings at every oil change. Sorry for the novel, but if you have any questions, just ask. Ryan |
02-04-2005, 04:41 PM | #4 |
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I haven't done air bags yet, but this seems to me to be the best way of routing your lines out of the crossmember. I would think that a rubber grommet could dry out and crack off with time where-as this setup has metal next to metal, no lines that could possibly chafe (sp?). Also it looks like it comes out from under the motor mount tower, which would keep you from breaking it off while messing with headers or whatever. I believe this is XXL's crossmember, if you have any specific questions about it.
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Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build |
04-01-2005, 03:20 PM | #5 |
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where did you get your tubler a arms
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04-02-2005, 11:48 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Air Ride Tech
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Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build Last edited by smbrouss70; 04-02-2005 at 11:49 PM. Reason: I'm retarded |
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07-09-2005, 11:16 PM | #7 |
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Sorry for starting an old one up...but does any one else have pic's of how the roughed there front??
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Atom (bigRed66) 1966- C10 1995- Wide Body Talon 1987- Dodge Raider (4 sale) 2000- 4-door Nissan Frontier 2003- Ford Focus (wife) |
07-12-2005, 02:03 PM | #8 |
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I'm placing my lines in the plastic conduit that your electrical wires usually run through. They are flexible and do a pretty good job protecting the lines. Heater hose also works well. I like the idea of the fittings in the front crossmember. Some part numbers and more pictures would be cool.
Rob
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07-13-2005, 01:11 PM | #9 |
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I cut a hole in the rear side of the coil pocket and used a 90 degree fitting coming out of the bag.
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07-13-2005, 01:51 PM | #10 |
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That's what I ended up doing too.
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2014 GMC Yukon XL (Wifey's) 2004 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 |
07-13-2005, 06:51 PM | #11 |
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Any one coming through the top???
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Atom (bigRed66) 1966- C10 1995- Wide Body Talon 1987- Dodge Raider (4 sale) 2000- 4-door Nissan Frontier 2003- Ford Focus (wife) |
07-14-2005, 01:44 PM | #12 |
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Went through the top! Plasma a hole and cleaned it up! I will post pics of my burban soon.....Almost done. Just need to finish the floors and hood hinges! Hopefully back home and out of the shop next week.
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07-14-2005, 06:52 PM | #13 |
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awesome fastbagged 68!!
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Atom (bigRed66) 1966- C10 1995- Wide Body Talon 1987- Dodge Raider (4 sale) 2000- 4-door Nissan Frontier 2003- Ford Focus (wife) |
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