blew up the diff

[bowtie]

Actually my kid blew up the diff and I'm fixing it.

Can I remove the pin and just replace the 2 gears or should I replace the whole diff.? I would imagine that I would have to remove the wheels and pull out the axles.

any suggestions

[cdowns]

strip it down clean up all the metal filings get net bearings and seals and slip in a posi while your at it/ make sure to check the splines on the axels b-4 ordering parts also check to see if the axels are twisted

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by cdowns

strip it down clean up all the metal filings get net bearings and seals and slip in a posi while your at it/
make sure to check the splines on the axels b-4 ordering parts also check to see if the axels are twisted

[bowtie]

Originally Posted by cdowns

strip it down clean up all the metal filings get net bearings and seals and slip in a posi while your at it/ make sure to check the splines on the axels b-4 ordering parts also check to see if the axels are twisted

cdowns thanks for the advice. I went out and took it apart and found the rest of the broken gears lodged up towards the front of the diff. The axels look fine. Looking over the bearing I noticed 1 side had some chips in the bearing and should be replaced. From what i could gather it looks like a 9" diff with 307 gears. Are those the "spider gears " that blew up? How big of a job is it to switch to posi?

[fastwillie 696969]

rebuild it all dont let anything go by replace everything expect the axel shaft if there's no worn marks or burrs but replace all bearings and seals with pinion and gear

[68Stepbed]

9"? What is the rearend out of? It looks like a 10 bolt.

What is the number of teeth on the ring gear and pinion?

You should only need a posi carrier to swap it over. Make sure it's a 3-series for a 3.07 gear.

[Green Machine]

We've had my 68 since it was 4 years old, when it was sill my dads, and I was a teen I did the same thing, now the other guys are right about doing it right, but at that time I just cleaned out all the chunks, polished the shaft, although a little under sized, and just bought 2 new spiders. That must have been 20 years ago. When I drive it now, that little clink from the not real tight spiders reminds me of the stupid sh!t i did when I was a kid LOL.

BTW the posi is a good idea. The damage you see comes from doing single wheel burnouts. If you don't have much power then your kid can't spin both tires and save some tire money. If you have enough power to spin both tires, at least you won't break the spider gears. And then don't cuss him if he breaks u-joints. U-joints for a teenager are the relief valve for the drive line. They usually break before some thing more expensive gives !!!!

[bowtie]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

9"? What is the rearend out of? It looks like a 10 bolt.

What is the number of teeth on the ring gear and pinion?

You should only need a posi carrier to swap it over. Make sure it's a 3-series for a 3.07 gear.

update, not a 9", actually its a 8.5 out of a 88 Chevy 1/2 ton and yes it's a 10 bolt. It has 40 teeth on the ring and 13 on the pinion, making it a 3.08.

I'm just going for the rebuild kit with new spider gears and pin. This pickup doesn't need a posi. I'll save the posi money for the 72.

[dmnall]

Originally Posted by bowtie

update, not a 9", actually its a 8.5 out of a 88 Chevy 1/2 ton and yes it's a 10 bolt. It has 40 teeth on the ring and 13 on the pinion, making it a 3.08.

I'm just going for the rebuild kit with new spider gears and pin. This pickup doesn't need a posi. I'll save the posi money for the 72.

Well I would recommend putting an eaton posi in that 10 bolt, it will a lot stronger stock than stock. I will be running one of those 10 bolt rear ends, however, before I drive my truck after the frame swap, it will get an Eaton Posi in it. What sucks is I will be running my 350 w/ 368 hp w/ a 700r4 (out of the 88 Truck frame w/ only 20K miles on it, untill I can get a LS6 or LS2 engine and Tremec/BW T56 M12 tranny for it

Charlie