4-speed manual to 700r4 conversion - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

71sub · 07-19-2005, 07:45 PM

I bought a 67 SWB with a blown-up 4 speed and am going to swap it out with an OD I've had in the garage. I know the drive line will need to be cut to length and re-balanced, as well as relocating the cross-member ...

BUT, how hard is it to remove the existing manual transmission ?
I've heard they don't just "slid" off the way an automatic will ..... !

I'd appreciate any tips that will save me some time in this 100+ degree weather we're having here in CA.

Thanks

Ev

**hotrodmtodd** · 07-19-2005, 10:25 PM

You will need an automatic X-member, your manual one will not "slide". It is riveted to the frame on the curved part, an auto one is flat and bolted in much further back. I would look in the FAQs for all the 700R4 particulars. It is a VERY common swap. Take care, Mike

67pro-street · 07-20-2005, 05:24 PM

71 sub, i just did the exact same swap over christmas time. i had a hard time getting the manual tranny out as well. the biggest suggestion i could make to you is that if you have a friend or brother or someone to help you out, get them because it will make things much easier and safer for you. but in order to take the manual tranny out, i would first unbolt the driveline and get that out of the way, then take the exhaust out as well, but only if its in the way. You also want to make sure that you take off your e brake cable. it is very simple to do. you dont need to take it out when you are removing the manual tranny, but you will definetly need to take it out when you are putting the 700r4 in as it is much longer. as far as taking the transmission out, i would unbolt it at the bellhousing and disconnect the cluth plate thingy (not sure what its called) from the flywheel as the flywheel is connected to the engine and you will have a hell of a time removing it if you dont do that. your next step to make the removal easiest and safest is to take off the transmission hump inside of the truck. that way you dont need to be underneath the transmission when you are removing it. believe me, those transmissions are damn heavy and if your hand slips on a greasy part or something you could incur some serious damage to yourself. With the transmission hump removed (its only about 6 1/2 in bolts) just hold the transmission from the top and have someone else push the clutch pedal in and out while you slide the tranny back. i just kept the shifter handle attached to my transmission when i removed it, and i held one hand on that and one hand on the driveline yoke and that kept the transmission balanced and easy to remove. sorry for the long post, but i tried to give you all the tips i had to figure out on my own so you arent in the heat too long. if you have any other questions, just let me know.

67pro-street

**pjmoreland** · 07-20-2005, 07:29 PM

If you have an engine hoist, I think it is way easier to pull the engine and the transmission all as one unit. That way you don't have to try to wrestle with the transmission down under your truck.

71sub · 07-21-2005, 05:43 PM

THANKS for the information !

I'm going to be moving the SB327 to the V8 motor mounts holes at the same time --- since the PO used the I6 location and the HEI distributor is touching the firewall.

We'll see -- I will have 2 friends helping with the swap and I do have an engine hoist. Decisions, decisions --- all we know is we'll be starting at day break and hopefully finish before triple digit weather hits.

Ev

**pjmoreland** · 07-21-2005, 05:59 PM

If you move the motor forward to the V8 position, you'll need to find a pair of V8 motor mount stands. They are shaped differently than the I6 stands. You'll also have to lengthen your exhaust pipes. I assume the throttle cable will be long enough.

07-19-2005, 07:45 PM	#1
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	4-speed manual to 700r4 conversion I bought a 67 SWB with a blown-up 4 speed and am going to swap it out with an OD I've had in the garage. I know the drive line will need to be cut to length and re-balanced, as well as relocating the cross-member ... BUT, how hard is it to remove the existing manual transmission ? I've heard they don't just "slid" off the way an automatic will ..... ! I'd appreciate any tips that will save me some time in this 100+ degree weather we're having here in CA. Thanks Ev __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

07-19-2005, 10:25 PM	#2
hotrodmtodd 'Burban Legend Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Mingo Junction OH Posts: 918	Lots of Fun You will need an automatic X-member, your manual one will not "slide". It is riveted to the frame on the curved part, an auto one is flat and bolted in much further back. I would look in the FAQs for all the 700R4 particulars. It is a VERY common swap. Take care, Mike __________________ '67 Chevy Iron City Beer Truck (9ft step) '67 Chevy Panel Truck 467 '68 Short Fleet 305v6 '68 McLaren Ramp Truck '68/'68/'70/'71 Burbs 292/366/402/454 '69 C-30 dump '71 C-50 dump and church bus '71 4x4 454 '72 Blazer (w/pop-up camper) $15 x-hooks '66 Chevy II 194/Weber '68 El Camino" 305v6 '69 Skylark 455 Buick '70 Chevelle 427 '71 Cutlass W-31 '71 GTO 400 2x2 "The 51" Chopped '51 Chevy (409) my first car OK Toad, we'll take 'em all... John Milner

07-21-2005, 05:43 PM	#5
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	THANKS for the information ! I'm going to be moving the SB327 to the V8 motor mounts holes at the same time --- since the PO used the I6 location and the HEI distributor is touching the firewall. We'll see -- I will have 2 friends helping with the swap and I do have an engine hoist. Decisions, decisions --- all we know is we'll be starting at day break and hopefully finish before triple digit weather hits. Ev __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

07-20-2005, 05:24 PM	#3
67pro-street Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 218	71 sub, i just did the exact same swap over christmas time. i had a hard time getting the manual tranny out as well. the biggest suggestion i could make to you is that if you have a friend or brother or someone to help you out, get them because it will make things much easier and safer for you. but in order to take the manual tranny out, i would first unbolt the driveline and get that out of the way, then take the exhaust out as well, but only if its in the way. You also want to make sure that you take off your e brake cable. it is very simple to do. you dont need to take it out when you are removing the manual tranny, but you will definetly need to take it out when you are putting the 700r4 in as it is much longer. as far as taking the transmission out, i would unbolt it at the bellhousing and disconnect the cluth plate thingy (not sure what its called) from the flywheel as the flywheel is connected to the engine and you will have a hell of a time removing it if you dont do that. your next step to make the removal easiest and safest is to take off the transmission hump inside of the truck. that way you dont need to be underneath the transmission when you are removing it. believe me, those transmissions are damn heavy and if your hand slips on a greasy part or something you could incur some serious damage to yourself. With the transmission hump removed (its only about 6 1/2 in bolts) just hold the transmission from the top and have someone else push the clutch pedal in and out while you slide the tranny back. i just kept the shifter handle attached to my transmission when i removed it, and i held one hand on that and one hand on the driveline yoke and that kept the transmission balanced and easy to remove. sorry for the long post, but i tried to give you all the tips i had to figure out on my own so you arent in the heat too long. if you have any other questions, just let me know. 67pro-street

07-20-2005, 07:29 PM	#4
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,426	If you have an engine hoist, I think it is way easier to pull the engine and the transmission all as one unit. That way you don't have to try to wrestle with the transmission down under your truck.

07-21-2005, 05:59 PM	#6
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,426	If you move the motor forward to the V8 position, you'll need to find a pair of V8 motor mount stands. They are shaped differently than the I6 stands. You'll also have to lengthen your exhaust pipes. I assume the throttle cable will be long enough.



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