10 bolt front under 1970 c-10? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dmigura · 07-22-2005, 10:13 PM

Just exploring more options. I want to Change my front d44 drums to disc brakes, and I am starting to understand the parts swap from a post 71 dana 44. But I have another option just sitting in my back yard. I have a 1980 3/4 ton w/a 10 bolt front and a 14 bolt rear. both are solid axles. I think I would have to move the perches on the rear, but is that all. Is the front a direct bolt in? Steering and all? If so this seems cheaper and easier for me than trying to round up new d44 break parts? Also would these axles be and upgrade or is the d44 a better axle.

Thanks

shilo · 07-22-2005, 11:25 PM

I think the front would be a simple swap, though i have never owned or seen someone do the swap. The rear will need perches moved, or get a 1 ton 14 bolt which will have the same perch width. Any one correct me if im wrong, this is just stuff ive heard.

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-23-2005, 09:48 AM

I agree. See how it works, I used my drum brake master cyclinder w/ disc up front and have had no problems.

**kwmech** · 07-23-2005, 11:49 AM

The front should bolt directly in. The only issue with the rear aside from the perches will be the parking brake cables, you may have to move the anchors on the frame and get a longer intermediate cable.

**jamie72** · 07-23-2005, 04:50 PM

the front will bolt in, i got a parts blazer, and the p/o alreay swapped the 44 for a 10 bolt in it..
good luck

**JIMs70GMC** · 07-23-2005, 08:38 PM

also, the 10 bolt will be stronger than the 44 because the axle u-joint is larger. You'll also gain a few degrees of turning radius.

dmigura · 07-24-2005, 07:24 PM

It sounds like the 10-bolt might be an upgrade. Also is there any issues with the u-joints, I mean can I use my oringinal drive-shafts (front and Back)?

Thanks for the help

big70chevy · 07-25-2005, 01:17 PM

The 10 bolt is a direct bolt in, but the 14 bolt will need the perches moved. That's what is in my truck in my avatar pic. Since you are currently running half ton and switching to 3/4 ton, you are going to have issues with shafts and u-joints. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on the shafts....... Good luck

**jamie72** · 07-26-2005, 04:43 PM

i think big70 is right on the drive shafts,they usally take the bigger yoked shafts, but you might be able to just change the yokes off the axles to match your tranny/xcase but it won`t be as strong....

Blue_71 · 07-26-2005, 04:58 PM

you can also get a special u-joint to go from 3/4 ton axles to 1/2 ton driveshafts, it has 2 large caps and 2 small (about $17 each)

07-22-2005, 10:13 PM	#1
dmigura Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Texas Posts: 17	10 bolt front under 1970 c-10? Just exploring more options. I want to Change my front d44 drums to disc brakes, and I am starting to understand the parts swap from a post 71 dana 44. But I have another option just sitting in my back yard. I have a 1980 3/4 ton w/a 10 bolt front and a 14 bolt rear. both are solid axles. I think I would have to move the perches on the rear, but is that all. Is the front a direct bolt in? Steering and all? If so this seems cheaper and easier for me than trying to round up new d44 break parts? Also would these axles be and upgrade or is the d44 a better axle. Thanks

07-22-2005, 11:25 PM	#2
shilo Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Grand Junction , CO Posts: 602	I think the front would be a simple swap, though i have never owned or seen someone do the swap. The rear will need perches moved, or get a 1 ton 14 bolt which will have the same perch width. Any one correct me if im wrong, this is just stuff ive heard. __________________ 71 swb 4x4, 37" Iroks, t400/205 496 77 CJ-7, Narrowed Dana 60 Lockrite, 14 Bolt Spool, 4.56 gears, 39.5" boggers. 360 t-18/d20

07-23-2005, 09:48 AM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I agree. See how it works, I used my drum brake master cyclinder w/ disc up front and have had no problems. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-23-2005, 04:50 PM	#5
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,836	the front will bolt in, i got a parts blazer, and the p/o alreay swapped the 44 for a 10 bolt in it.. good luck __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com

07-23-2005, 08:38 PM	#6
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	also, the 10 bolt will be stronger than the 44 because the axle u-joint is larger. You'll also gain a few degrees of turning radius. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

07-23-2005, 11:49 AM	#4
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,650	The front should bolt directly in. The only issue with the rear aside from the perches will be the parking brake cables, you may have to move the anchors on the frame and get a longer intermediate cable.

07-24-2005, 07:24 PM	#7
dmigura Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Texas Posts: 17	It sounds like the 10-bolt might be an upgrade. Also is there any issues with the u-joints, I mean can I use my oringinal drive-shafts (front and Back)? Thanks for the help

07-25-2005, 01:17 PM	#8
big70chevy Tristan's monster truck!! Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Milan, IN Posts: 87	The 10 bolt is a direct bolt in, but the 14 bolt will need the perches moved. That's what is in my truck in my avatar pic. Since you are currently running half ton and switching to 3/4 ton, you are going to have issues with shafts and u-joints. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on the shafts....... Good luck __________________ 1970 K20, 15" lift, 44" Boggers, 14" Weld Scorpios, 5.13 gears. 1993 K1500 ext. cab Z-71 1984 GMC C30 dump

07-26-2005, 04:43 PM	#9
jamie72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: madison indiana Posts: 3,836	i think big70 is right on the drive shafts,they usally take the bigger yoked shafts, but you might be able to just change the yokes off the axles to match your tranny/xcase but it won`t be as strong.... __________________ jamie72 72 BB cheyenne -- Restoration getting started.. member #807 http://www.myspace.com/whitetailobsession www.antlertalk.com



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