What's the difference 67 & 87 Front end?

[tom1000]

Can anyone tell me the difference between the front ends (steering & suspension) of the 67 and 87 C-10 pickups?
Any tips on switching the old 67 out for a newer one?

Thanks

[thecatseye66]

try this thread for starters...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=13692
There is a lot more information in the FAQ's...

[modifiedGMC]

I used a complete front suspension (including the power steering) from a 1979 C10 under my 1969. There are a couple of holes that you have to drill out (or notand the brake lines have to be tweeked a little. You have to either pull the engine or support it during the swap (if it's installed).

[Slammed67]

'67 frames won't accept a power steering box unless they are modified. There is no "indention" on those frames needed for the larger boxes.

[rage'nrat638]

20 years

[Gray Ghost]

I didn't know that about the 67's....I have to have PS so I guess I can narrow the search to '68-'72's.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Buffalo elk:
The 67 frame is identicle to the other years. You just have to "dimple" the frame where the steering box goes. Lots of guys on here have done it and I plan on doing it someday.... but if you want to go the "easy" rout and have power steering and brakes, these options were offered on the 71 and 72 trucks only.

[Gray Ghost]

Hopefully I can find one converted already...I really like the 67's, 69's and 70's better than the 71/72's.

[Putter]

There are several vendors/dealers that carry a bolt-on plate that more-or-less simulates that dimple. Or just get it red hot and beat it with a big hammer...instant dimple!!!

[Americanrider]

FYI, after you get it red-hot and make your dimple cool it quick by pouring cold water on it. A fast cool down will temper the metal and harden it. If you let it cool slow it will make the metal softer. Just a trick I learned from my next-door neighbor who is a Blacksmith & farrier.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Americanrider

FYI, after you get it red-hot and make your dimple cool it quick by pouring cold water on it. A fast cool down will temper the metal and harden it. If you let it cool slow it will make the metal softer. Just a trick I learned from my next-door neighbor who is a Blacksmith & farrier.

I thought that it would make the metal brittle and more prone to cracks/breaks

[alfeefish]

I have 67 frame it is painted and ready to go , I don't want to heat it. Which vendors carry the dimple plate?

[modifiedGMC]

I saw a 67 in the paper today for $600! It said it was driven daily but no real description of it. It's almost tempting to call about it and go look.

[Americanrider]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I thought that it would make the metal brittle and more prone to cracks/breaks

Call up your local blacksmith and check... you don't have to take my word, but if I wrong then please let me know. I've watched my neighbor make his own tools, from handheld tools, punches, horse shoes to braces for machinery. If he wants whatever he makes to be hard it gets a quick dip in the water bucket after he shapes it and while it is still hot. The techincal term is QUENCHING AND TEMPERING - In this operation the procedure consists of heating the material to the proper austenitizing temperature, holding at that temperature for a sufficient time to effect the desired change in crystalline structure, and quenching in a suitable medium - water, oil or air depending on the chemical composition. After quenching, the material is reheated to a predetermined temperature below the critical range and then cooled under suitable temperatures (tempering).

Or read it here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0/index1a.html

Pay close attention to Section 6 - Heat treating and hardness

Sorry this is a little off the side of the topic but I'm in the process of doing the PS conversion myself on my '67 4x4 as well as adding power disk brakes. If there is a frame spacer that any vendor carries I'd like to see it or hear from anyone who is using one.